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Looking to buy 1974 K5

You may need the inter rear fender skirt. Those have the tendency to rust out along with out quarter panel.
Here is picture of mine.
I going to see if I could find picture Chief Brody's fenders when he did his.

rearquarter.jpg
 
Chief Brody said:
does the TH350 supposed to have Drive, D1 and D2?

Mine has that marked on the column, but I can't seem to get the shifter to go to D2....linkage?
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Yes, TH350 is D, D2, and D1. Some got marked D, 2, L...and it sounds like you need to adjust the shift linkage. A Chiltons manual will have the correct procedure.

Chief Brody said:
How do you tell what your rear axle ratio is?
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Been answered already, but I'll elaborate some. I personally feel it's worthwhile to remove the cover, that way you get to clean and service the diff as well as be 100% certain of ratio. With the cover off rotate the diff until you see stamped numbers on the edge of the ring gear. GM stamped all their gear sets...with a date and ratio. Usually date code first, followed by ring tooth count, then pinion gear tooth count. To get your ration divide the two numbers. 41-11 for example is 3.73:1 41 ring gear teeth, 11 pinion teeth.

GoAWOL said:
I also found some rust holes in the rocker panels and doors. Compared to some of the trucks I've seen on the site, I think I'm pretty fortunate...I just have to get smart on repairing what I have. Someone please tell me everything will be okay...
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Your rockers look like they'll be surprising you too, hopefully the rocker boxes are still somewhat solid. Your tailpan and floor in the rear look nice and solid though, hopefully also as good underneath that area. I'm sure you'll be fine, but it will be a fair bit more work than you might have bargained for. Pretty much all the repair panels out there right now are all made in the same factory in China. Goodmark is just one of several companies slapping their name on the product for resale here.
 
tRustyK5 said:
Your rockers look like they'll be surprising you too, hopefully the rocker boxes are still somewhat solid. Your tailpan and floor in the rear look nice and solid though, hopefully also as good underneath that area. I'm sure you'll be fine, but it will be a fair bit more work than you might have bargained for. Pretty much all the repair panels out there right now are all made in the same factory in China. Goodmark is just one of several companies slapping their name on the product for resale here.
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From underneath, I couldn't see any rust in the rocker area...just the surface rust I saw on the interior. You're right about what I bargained for but as the saying goes, sometimes your the bug, sometimes your the windshield. My only consolation is the price I paid for the truck.

Reference the panels...are the patches typical Chinese crap and not worth the effort or is that the right way to repair these rust issues?
 
I think aftermarket patch panels in general aren't worth a crap.
I have some floor pans which I think the person who is replacing my floors are not going to use.
but some people make them work.
 
GoAWOL said:
It's blue...or what was blue at one time.

I need a new dash bezel too as this one is cracked and in pretty rough shape
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I want a new dash pad, the real thing, but they also make these thin covers that actually fit pretty well...they aren't cheap cheap, but they aren't $300 like the real pads

What are you going to do with this Blazer...restore it or mod it? are you looking for original wood grain dash parts or something else?
 
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GoAWOL said:
I knew there were rust spots...what I didn't know was how bad the rust might be. So I started poking and found that the rear wheel arches had been filled with some sort of hard rubber/plastic material that was surrounded by sheet metal. It's not too far up into the panel but for my experience level it presents a bit of a challenge. Looking at purchasing these panels and reliving my high school welding days.. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GMK-4144-650-73R/ .....anyone have any experience with this scenario and Goodmark panel patches?
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I have a patch panel that I didn't use that I got from this American company...it is far superior to the other stuff...I will have to search and see if I can find the post that has the pictures...

Here it is...Schott Metal Company....look at this post http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3082780&postcount=2203
 
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GoAWOL said:
IMG_2091_zps0c740fd4.jpg
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In this picture, you got something I am trying to figure out....on the tailgate there...the torque rod...see the bracket that holds it to the tailgate?

There is a plastic bushing under that...which way is it facing? There is a "block" end and a tapered off end...which way is it facing?

and also, it appears that the torque rod "Loop" is up and not down like I thought it was...right there where it attaches to the frame, the big half circle bend...is it bowing upward or downward?
 
JDNobodi said:
You may need the inter rear fender skirt. Those have the tendency to rust out along with out quarter panel.
Here is picture of mine.
I going to see if I could find picture Chief Brody's fenders when he did his.
Click to expand...

Luckily my tubs were ok....
 
Chief Brody said:
In this picture, you got something I am trying to figure out....on the tailgate there...the torque rod...see the bracket that holds it to the tailgate?

There is a plastic bushing under that...which way is it facing? There is a "block" end and a tapered off end...which way is it facing?

and also, it appears that the torque rod "Loop" is up and not down like I thought it was...right there where it attaches to the frame, the big half circle bend...is it bowing upward or downward?
Click to expand...

uh....not sure what you're referring to Chief. Can you circle the area you're talking about with Microsoft Paint or something and repost it?
 
Chief Brody said:
I have a patch panel that I didn't use that I got from this American company...it is far superior to the other stuff...I will have to search and see if I can find the post that has the pictures...

Here it is...Schott Metal Company....look at this post http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3082780&postcount=2203
Click to expand...


I gotta come off the dime to be a member to see pics directly loaded to the website. Right now, $25 buys a lot of PB Lube, oil, and other stuff.
 
JDNobodi said:
I think aftermarket patch panels in general aren't worth a crap.
I have some floor pans which I think the person who is replacing my floors are not going to use.
but some people make them work.
Click to expand...

What are my options? It seems it would difficult to shape the wheel arch areas close to stock form. That's why I am looking at patch panels. If it were anywhere else I would just get some sheet metal and patch it.
 
Chief Brody said:
I want a new dash pad, the real thing, but they also make these thin covers that actually fit pretty well...they aren't cheap cheap, but they aren't $300 like the real pads

What are you going to do with this Blazer...restore it or mod it? are you looking for original wood grain dash parts or something else?
Click to expand...

That's a great question. I love a slightly modified full vert classic look. Not interested in rock crawling but will probably put a 4" lift on it.

So to answer your question I think it will be a modified restore. For example, the seats aren't going to be original style because I want 3-point seat belts for the kids. The dash and interior will be as original as possible but I'm not against veering from the classic look.

I see you have done a great deal of work on your truck, especially in that fantastic Roykan thread on rust repair 101. Appreciate your chiming in to lend some experience.
 
GoAWOL said:
I see you have done a great deal of work on your truck, especially in that fantastic Roykan thread on rust repair 101. Appreciate your chiming in to lend some experience.
Click to expand...

If you want "experiences" I can relay what I have been through on a 1974, what I did wrong, what I would do different...at the moment I think I know the 1974 body and panels pretty well...having been intimately aquainted with them over the last two years and counting...
for answers and how to do them correctly...Ryoken is the man...
 
Chief Brody said:
If you want "experiences" I can relay what I have been through on a 1974, what I did wrong, what I would do different...at the moment I think I know the 1974 body and panels pretty well...having been intimately aquainted with them over the last two years and counting...
for answers and how to do them correctly...Ryoken is the man...
Click to expand...

There's no doubt he's the man. You can sense the competence coming from his posts...lots of experience. I'll be sure to bug you when I have some questions...like wasn't Chief Brody's K5 yellow in the movie?
 
Alright Chief...saw what you were talking about and took some pics. Those rods are on both sides but not setup the same way. The driver side isn't connected to anything while the passenger one loops around a mount. Seems like the driver side mount may be missing. Considering the physics...the driver side may be backwards...hmmm.

Hope you can see what you need.

IMG_2112_zps94e8f71d.jpg

IMG_2113_zpsedec688b.jpg

IMG_2115_zps8952c3e6.jpg

IMG_2118_zps77a8ffc3.jpg
 
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