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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
Overview Gallery Discussion
Babaganoosh said:
I thought the higher the KPA number the more vacuum it has?
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Thats the way it is with inHg, which is a measure of vacuum from normal 0 psig, or ~1 atmosphere, however, kPa is a absolute number from zero, so 101 is actually 0 inHg. I made this chart years ago, this rounds to 5 kPa and 1 inHg, and no decimals.....

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So, now when I smash the throttle it has a tendency to throw the belt.and you can see in this pic that the belt is technically shorter than it should be.

But when I blip the throttle at the TB I can watch it swing all the way back to the yellow line.
Wonder if I need to get one of the gates RPM belts .... That'll sting the wallet lol.

IMG_20250630_153450810_HDR~4.jpg
 
I think you just need a quality tensioner and a good belt. I like good year gator back for serpentine belts, Gates for V belts.

That tensioner looks crooked.
 
It' was new when I did the LS swap. So is a couple years old. But probably not more than 7-8000 miles.
 
It's done it before once or twice last year.
I can't say that it 'does it now,' it locked up on me the other day, the other direction , but the belt stayed on.
And today was the first time I've driven it since, and it did it the first time I smashed it.
So technically it's only done it once now this year.
I'd rather have a bolt style tensioner that sort of stops the tensioner from going too far either way
 
It's got a hell of a spring in it
I think the dual high amp alts have something to do with the pull on it.

The spring tension goes to the left in that pic.
It sits with the line on the wheel side, all the way over to that left line when there's no belt on it
When I smash it, it must be stretching the belt or something.
 
That's why I'm wondering about the gates RPM. It's designed for that stuff and stretches less.
 
It did fine all last year, and surprisingly, the only times it's ever kicked a belt have been in n the same place leaving the same corner. :thinking:

:dunno:
 
shady said:
So, now when I smash the throttle it has a tendency to throw the belt.and you can see in this pic that the belt is technically shorter than it should be.
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The length of the belt is in the part number. So take whatever part number you're running now and see what the next higher part number is and it's that many mm longer.
folkenheath said:
I think you just need a quality tensioner and a good belt. I like good year gator back for serpentine belts, Gates for V belts.

That tensioner looks crooked.
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I agree. Try the easy stuff before swapping to all 10-rib pulleys or something. Maybe get a straight edge to prove that the tensioner isn't crooked.
JoshHefnerX said:
Some of the new alternators have a 1-way clutch in them. Supposed to help w/ belt toss.
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That's like my daughter's car. Shut it off and it you can hear the alternator spin for like 5 seconds. Tops the battery off, right? :waytogo: It's possible some stock clutch pulleys could be swapped on to what you have, but it's going to help more with decel than rev-up. It's also possible that you need to underdrive the alts if you're swinging for close to 7k RPM.

Does your ECM have any inputs that could be used to manually select a higher idle?
 
shady said:
It's got a hell of a spring in it
I think the dual high amp alts have something to do with the pull on it.
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I've never used dual alternators before, that could be true. Usually it's the sudden RPM accel and decel that causes issues, and you can see that if you just open the hood and video while you rap the throttle several times in neutral. Or watch it and have someone else rap the throttle. Just rev it high and let it back down very quick, but don't pu$$y foot it. When I was 14 my Dad and I built a mild 468, and then put it in my brothers 81 C10, new V belts and with one rap of the throttle you could chuck them even when tight, repeatedly, could chuck the belt on command if you wanted, which you tried to avoid. Went and got good gates and the problem went away. Since then I have always used Gates for V belts, which probably aren't the same as they were over 3 decades ago. But I like Gatorback better for serpentine because the gates always get micro cracks on the ribbed side, may or may not matter I just don't like it. With a serpentine, you really need a good tensioner that's aligned properly, misalignment makes it chuck easy too.

shady said:
..... :dunno:

View attachment 507622
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I'm always skeptical Amazon stuff is often fake, not always, but I feel like I can never be sure.

Plus all ACDelco is not original GM anymore.
 
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What I've been doing to find belts is exactly that, but when I hit the one I have I started running into issues finding the next one up.
With the way it seems to stretch when I gun it, I think a longer one would be a bad thing. That'd jump even more probably.

I'm actually thinking decel is when most of the problem happens. Decel had to be the only way it cranked the tensioner down so far that it got caught like it did the other day.
That or something to do with the power steering pump being under load trying to power brake. :dunno:
May need to do some GoPro under the hood vids.

It's got the AC Delco professional with relatively low miles. Think it's bad already from the way I drove it, or my setup?


The alts I got say they're ok at high RPM. And like mentioned, it ran all year last year throwing the belt once, leaving the same intersection the same direction.
At that intersection I'm turning left, smash it hard, hold it long enough to let it shift, then lift all the way to back down cause I'm in town.
It's actually the same corner I did the under car vid on.
 
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