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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
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Well. I knew I should have kept my mouth shut.....

Everything I've done lately has been on dry ground. It all takes a bit for it to get it's fat ass moving and get the Rs up in a quick climb.
All's been good.

This morning when I left work it was all wet pavement.
I pulled out at a roll got straight and mashed it.
Immediately broke traction and went from about 2000 rpm to rev limit area in about 1 second. And in stead of hitting the limiter, it died instantly again :doah:

Dry ground solid pulls it doesn't do it any more though.
If I blow the tires off on wet ground in a 75% to start and controlled throttle manner, it also does fine.

Guess I need to just get all the new goodies in and replace the few cheap pieces left.... Then figure it out from there
 
I think you have a plan by replacing the cheap pieces, like the plug wires, when you upgrade other stuff. If you try it again try to get another datalog.

Just be careful, it doesn't sound dangerous for the engine, just shutting off, but it sounds dangerous if you are going highway speeds and lose power steering and power brakes.
 
First time it did it I was at like 80 lol. It was actually ok. The other day leaving work in the rain, I never even noticed the lack of power assist
 
5 hrs to get it unhooked and out isn't bad lol.

Now it's time to get all the new go fast goodies in it.

Got the grandkids speed dumped on us, so i guess it'll wait for the next day.
 
Looks like the pistons are about -.005"
So my .055" gaskets put my quench at .060"
Should be more like .040"-.045".

Need a super thin gasket to get me there. I'll just have to do the best I can finding one.
Probably just go with .040"s and check the piston to valve clearance with those. See how it goes.

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Depending on how bad you want that quench you can get cometics pretty thin, and I wouldn't go much thinner than .035" for .040 quench on that setup.

My distributor has .030, .040, .051, and .061 in stock. But I think .030 is too thin for your application. You might be able to find a .036" somewhere in stock that would be darn near perfect, I can only special order it. Although .004" is not much change for a street ride.

Did you check both decks, all 4 corners?
 
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I haven't checked all 4. Didn't think of that. And I still have to actually clean all the super fine residue stuff that came off the head gaskets too. This was just an "OH the heads are off and I have a new tool to play with.!" Type check. But I don't think it'll change more that a half a thousandth.

Summit has the .036" and every size in .001 increments past it. I actually did think of the .036"s lol.
I put .040"s in my cart for price checking what it's all gonna cost me. But I have to work OT and such before I can buy anything. So I have a few weeks to choose. I forgot to save up for the actual swap before I decided to yank it apart :doah:

At $87 each, using a set to check P-V clearance is gonna suck! Lol.
 
Also kind of surprised me....
The lifter trays don't grab or hold the lifters at all.
I've watched a bunch of vids where people pull the heads of, grab that and some oily lifters come with.
I rotated the motor and watched my lifters all move up and down with the cam freely after the heads were off trying to get to TDC.

Seen people get away with cam swaps by just removing the rockets, spinning the engine a few times and being careful. Mine wouldn't have allowed that even remotely.:dunno:
They were summit brand., should I look into GMPP or something? Or run em ....?
 
Run them, when I did my cam swap I put tig rod in the holes in the block and turned the engine until it hit the back to be safe.
 
Did a bunch of measurements today, and got it locked down to a .040" thick head gasket needed.
So next up is getting the cash up to actually order the gaskets and new head bolts needed lol.

By all of my calculations I'm going to be pushing it to run pump gas.
Looks like I'll have a static compression ratio of about 10.38-10.4.
And a dynamic of right at 8.5-8.51
Which is supposedly the limit for pump gas.

I don't mind having to run 91 since it's a toy not a daily.
Even if I have to run octane boost or something once in a while. (Need gas, but only station around only has 87...etc.)
 
On further research it looks like nobody seems to know what some of the numbers are lol.

Summit lists my pistons as 5cc dish.
The company site lists it as 3cc.
But I remember when I bought them I went to their site to read everything about them. And I could swear that it said 5cc on there too... ?

And the l92 heads I have seem to vary between 68 cc and 70 cc depending on where you look.

Also read a bunch of places that say an 8.7-8.8 DCR
Is easily doable with pump gas in an LS platform.
So it'll probably be OK.

It'd be cool if everyone could list the same numbers lol.
 
In my calculator for dynamic compression I don't use the intake valve closing at .050 because you can't make compression with the intake valve still open .050" unless the piston speed is extremely high.

I use the advertised intake valve closing number. This is going to show a lower dynamic for your engine.

I don't like the way Summit lists a dome as a negative number, it's confusing to a lot of people. A dome does reduce the combustion chamber size, but a dome is a larger piston volume, not smaller. This is why I just use a dish/dome slider and eliminate the confusion.
 
Got the flex plate fit on, fits sweet.
Doing a disc brake conversion on a jeep tomorrow so, this will wait a bit.
But that should be done by the end of the day I hope.

Plan is to get the engine/trans all together and ready to stab in by Saturday.
Might not do it Saturday, but I hope to be ready by then.

I still have to take my air box out and cut the hole in the fender bigger for more air.
Install my roll control solenoid. (Not worried about wiring it, just physically getting it in)
Plus remove my remaining exhaust pieces, and drive shaft.

Before it can go back in.
By no later than next Tuesday/Wednesday I should be able to start it. Hopefully.
Then it goes to the other side of the shop so I can use the lift, to take the tank out and swap pumps.
 
Those aluminum header gaskets last along time, but you need to retorque them half a dozon times it seems, once the engine is cool after a heat cycle, retorque them. Do that until they don't move and then they are usually good to go.
 
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