CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
You need to ask.
There is no such thing as the best hospital and you always need to know what they know.
The only person that really cares about you is you.
If they did the test, it can tell you if there's any signs, and gives you a heads up what to expect.
Also, I don't know what they told you but the standard care for this problem is give blood thinners and wait to see if it heals itself in 3to 6 months, and if it doesn't then they go in and fix it.
You can't really do anything in the meantime because you risk aggravating it.
I always prefer to let the body heal itself but I don't like to use blood thinners in the same time unless they found clotting and they are giving your artery time to heal.
Blood thinners are not benign and they interfere with the natural healing.
Anyway I think you need to ask them what they did and what they know.
Don't just blindly trust they are doing their best
They said take these and come back in 3 months.
I went back 2 weeks later and they didn't do any other testing or anything. Gave pain killers and sent me home.
I don't take them because I can manage the pain without.
I'm a firm believer that the docs just open a book that says, throw this med at it and don't even check if it really works for that person.
My body seems to be sensitive to meds.
When I was on anti depressants they ended having to lower my dose to a quarter of what they originally gave me. And for NyQuil I have to take an 1/8" in the bottom of the cup thing. Any more than that and Im up all night with my body annoyed no matter what position I get in.
When I mentioned that they smiled and said it'll be fine.
I went back 2 weeks later and they didn't do any other testing or anything. Gave pain killers and sent me home.
I don't take them because I can manage the pain without.
I'm a firm believer that the docs just open a book that says, throw this med at it and don't even check if it really works for that person.
My body seems to be sensitive to meds.
When I was on anti depressants they ended having to lower my dose to a quarter of what they originally gave me. And for NyQuil I have to take an 1/8" in the bottom of the cup thing. Any more than that and Im up all night with my body annoyed no matter what position I get in.
When I mentioned that they smiled and said it'll be fine.
They call it practicing medicine….
In other news, I tried to change up my tune using the IAC setup thinking about it in a different way, and that did not work lol. So at this point it still has an issue going into gear from park/neutral. Unless I lightly hold the pedal at about 1% or so.
Opening the throttle blade with the idle screw the same 1% doesn't help though...
And coming to a stop is fine MOST of the time, but occasionally it dips to about 300-400 and it'll either catch its self, or it won't.
I wish there was a way to speed up the IAC open speed.
All there is is a way to speed up or slow down it's closing time. That I can find anyway.
Opening the throttle blade with the idle screw the same 1% doesn't help though...
And coming to a stop is fine MOST of the time, but occasionally it dips to about 300-400 and it'll either catch its self, or it won't.
I wish there was a way to speed up the IAC open speed.
All there is is a way to speed up or slow down it's closing time. That I can find anyway.
How you feeling today?
The one thing I've learned dealing my MIL problems is you need to be your own advocate. Ask questions because they either don't give a F or they're too busy.
As to your truck does it help if you program in a higher idle speed, or does it make it worse?
The one thing I've learned dealing my MIL problems is you need to be your own advocate. Ask questions because they either don't give a F or they're too busy.
As to your truck does it help if you program in a higher idle speed, or does it make it worse?
Not bad. Sleeping hurts lol. That's the worst part.
I asked a BUNCH of questions. But the majority of morons asking docs stupid chit has gotten them all to sort of ignore you or something. Every time I asked about things they either glass over, smile and ignore me, or politely explain why I'm stupid. In not so many words.
I've tried 800 all the way to 1050 rpm.
Any higher and I'm getting into the converter trying to move it so it drags the engine down even more when I put it in gear.
One of the biggest killers is the hydro boost system.
Holding the brakes too hard or holding the brakes good and try to turn at a stop will kill it.
I'd have thought it'd have enough torque to not care.
Apparently not at idle lol.
Heath and me have been tuning back and forth trying to get it.
So far it's good enough that MOST of the time I can just drive it and don't worry much. I lightly touch the pedal before it goes in gear, and keep an eye on it at intersections.
It's just embarrassing when it happens in front of another car guy or some chit lol.
I asked a BUNCH of questions. But the majority of morons asking docs stupid chit has gotten them all to sort of ignore you or something. Every time I asked about things they either glass over, smile and ignore me, or politely explain why I'm stupid. In not so many words.
I've tried 800 all the way to 1050 rpm.
Any higher and I'm getting into the converter trying to move it so it drags the engine down even more when I put it in gear.
One of the biggest killers is the hydro boost system.
Holding the brakes too hard or holding the brakes good and try to turn at a stop will kill it.
I'd have thought it'd have enough torque to not care.
Apparently not at idle lol.
Heath and me have been tuning back and forth trying to get it.
So far it's good enough that MOST of the time I can just drive it and don't worry much. I lightly touch the pedal before it goes in gear, and keep an eye on it at intersections.
It's just embarrassing when it happens in front of another car guy or some chit lol.
The caltracs are supposed to come with these. Which is a much needed upgrade anyway.
Mine weren't even properly torqued due to them being so rotted they deformed before they got there, so I quit tightening.
Mine weren't even properly torqued due to them being so rotted they deformed before they got there, so I quit tightening.
I'm going to try this .
It's not the only thread I found with the same issue.
But it's the most detailed and close to my setup and exact issue.
The sensor he used to fix it was suggested by many. And supposedly has a more powerful magnet.
It's not the only thread I found with the same issue.
But it's the most detailed and close to my setup and exact issue.
The sensor he used to fix it was suggested by many. And supposedly has a more powerful magnet.
You are getting an RPM error so it's worth a shot. I've never seen your exact issue before myself, and everything is basically new or almost new. So its either a questionable part or a missing or lose ground or something. But you have said those are good, so it very well could be something like that.
I found a half dozen threads with guys having issues with GM crank sensors out of the box.
A few of them saying they fell out at 5800-5900.
Couple guys never actually found it in the life of their thread, one dude was able to shim his. Multiple people said this NTK was the best one.
I figured if I'm going to pull it to check the gap, I'll just put that one in while I'm there.
A few of them saying they fell out at 5800-5900.
Couple guys never actually found it in the life of their thread, one dude was able to shim his. Multiple people said this NTK was the best one.
I figured if I'm going to pull it to check the gap, I'll just put that one in while I'm there.
It could be that most are not trying to go past 5900 rpm.
I have never tried to push any v8 past 4000, but then again I would not buy that engine so, I don't know
Could also be the sensor is fine but the gap is a few thousandths off
I'm just going to match what that dude did since he said the gap was checked and 3 GM sensors didn't work. But the NTK did.
Like I say, if I'm already taking it out to check gap. Might as well put the one everyone says works best.
I'm just going to match what that dude did since he said the gap was checked and 3 GM sensors didn't work. But the NTK did.
Like I say, if I'm already taking it out to check gap. Might as well put the one everyone says works best.
Would a gap problem only show up at that one high rpm?
I'd think you'd see it at other points in the rpm range.
I'd think you'd see it at other points in the rpm range.
They were saying that too small of a gap would show up at higher rpm.
It loses resolution or something as it speeds up.
IT generally shows up as a slightly erratic rpm signal before it cuts out.
Mine just kind of stops.
But I'm going to check gap anyway, because I have to do something lol.
On the rear end, I got the front spring eye bushings pressed out.
Frickin ball joint press gets used for so much crap not related to ball joints lol.
Taking everything apart and such has been super easy to do.
I'm going to have to employ a friend or my uncle or something to torque everything though. That kinda sucks. But is what it is I guess.
It loses resolution or something as it speeds up.
IT generally shows up as a slightly erratic rpm signal before it cuts out.
Mine just kind of stops.
But I'm going to check gap anyway, because I have to do something lol.
On the rear end, I got the front spring eye bushings pressed out.
Frickin ball joint press gets used for so much crap not related to ball joints lol.
Taking everything apart and such has been super easy to do.
I'm going to have to employ a friend or my uncle or something to torque everything though. That kinda sucks. But is what it is I guess.
Springs are back in, and all's good and ready for the rest of the cal tracks. Except I have to modify them to fit 
I actually expected that.
The plates that go under the axle are setup for either the 3⅜ axle tube, or maybe 3¼. I have the 3½"
No biggie, I just have to grind out the gold areas on the sides. Not the bottom part.
And due to having the bigger brakes the back plate contacts it and keeps it from sliding all the way over where it should. So I might have to dock a corner too.
Front eye bushings are replaced with the aluminum solids, and all back in with the bolts and front brackets.
Getting there lol.
I actually expected that.
The plates that go under the axle are setup for either the 3⅜ axle tube, or maybe 3¼. I have the 3½"
No biggie, I just have to grind out the gold areas on the sides. Not the bottom part.
And due to having the bigger brakes the back plate contacts it and keeps it from sliding all the way over where it should. So I might have to dock a corner too.
Front eye bushings are replaced with the aluminum solids, and all back in with the bolts and front brackets.
Getting there lol.
