Yeah, ether is a bit harsh. We always used flammable brake cleaner.
Martin
Martin
CK5
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M1028- [under new management]
- Thread starter schuttothrill
- Start date
schuttothrill
1/2 ton status
Roger that I'll get to checking those things out when i get time. I had my buddy take the truck to Seward for me so it doesn't have to sit in my driveway for a while. Baby's mama is on a rampage lately and the less ugly stuff sitting around the better! Also never realized you could use some of those things as opposed to ether but that is so obvious now haha. I knew using ether was basically a cardinal sin, but rest assured we were very sparing with it!
schuttothrill
1/2 ton status
How cool is this thing?? http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/3467030785.html
I'd paint the top and the midsection satin white to try to match the dull paint. White tube bumpers, and white H1 wheels. Man I wish I was closer to Oregon so I could pick this thing up!!
I'd paint the top and the midsection satin white to try to match the dull paint. White tube bumpers, and white H1 wheels. Man I wish I was closer to Oregon so I could pick this thing up!!
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schuttothrill
1/2 ton status
Some one needs to go buy that!
And then bring it to me!
Non AC, plus it's a GMC, and an automatic. Oh and the black top looks funny with orange. That being said, I still like it.
Martin
Martin
schuttothrill
1/2 ton status
I'd paint the top and the middle white, and paint my H1 wheels white 
I'd run 700r4/208, and maybe a vintage air or something if I wanted A/C. I think the interior is tan which is kickass in my book. I also think it would be cool to have drive flanges eventually so I don't have to keep screwing with lockouts every time I want to have fun, but I think my front DS is too beefy to be spinning constantly. #firstworldproblems.
I'd run 700r4/208, and maybe a vintage air or something if I wanted A/C. I think the interior is tan which is kickass in my book. I also think it would be cool to have drive flanges eventually so I don't have to keep screwing with lockouts every time I want to have fun, but I think my front DS is too beefy to be spinning constantly. #firstworldproblems.
Did you check your Pos cable to the battery yet? My last one that cause a hard start wouldn't power up the pump when it was cranking. Finally melted out of the connector at the starter. Would have be BAD had it grounded out.
Keep baby, dump momma.
schuttothrill
1/2 ton status
Haven't had the chance to check it yet. Still at my buddy Trent's shop west of Seward. I did change out the starter a few years ago for a GR one, so the connections could certainly have worked loose. What solenoid were you talking about that powers up the pump? Does it power up the pink wire?
Yes the pink wire needs power while cranking and if the cable is shot (like mine) or the connection is bad the starter will steal all the power and the pink wire will not be hot and allow the pump to work.
schuttothrill
1/2 ton status
Perfect- that's good troubleshooting info. It shouldn't be too much to ask to have my buddy check for voltage at the pink wire while cranking, before blindly jiggling wires.
If there's no voltage at the end of the pink wire than I assume a guy could jump 12 volts directly to it? and it should fire up if this is the problem?
If there's no voltage at the end of the pink wire than I assume a guy could jump 12 volts directly to it? and it should fire up if this is the problem?
schuttothrill
1/2 ton status
It doesn't have any problem cranking with 24 volts and gear reduction starter. I'll have him try that out if he's not too busy and report back.
schuttothrill
1/2 ton status
OK. I put a test light on the pink wire and there was current with the key on, and while cranking. Finger checked all the wires, nothing seemed loose. Again, the thing ran by itself just fine after a little assistance starting it.
The lift pump is (and has been for a while) pretty leaky looking, just covered in seepy wetness. No drips, but leaky. Watery consistency, but doesn't smell like fuel as far as I could tell.
I'm thinking lift pump. If it is, would it be better to replace with mechanical lift pump or get an electric one, and block off the hole in the block? If the mech style is mostly reliable I'll probably go that route, but if they're known to be riddled with problems, then perhaps it's time for an upgrade!
Also, maybe it would make everything too complicated to be worth the trouble, but if I was going to go with an electric pump, would it be worth it to try to find an OEM tank with a pump built into it? Aside from possibly running a wire I would think it should otherwise bolt right up, providing such a thing even exists...
Thanks in advance, Gents.
The lift pump is (and has been for a while) pretty leaky looking, just covered in seepy wetness. No drips, but leaky. Watery consistency, but doesn't smell like fuel as far as I could tell.
I'm thinking lift pump. If it is, would it be better to replace with mechanical lift pump or get an electric one, and block off the hole in the block? If the mech style is mostly reliable I'll probably go that route, but if they're known to be riddled with problems, then perhaps it's time for an upgrade!
Also, maybe it would make everything too complicated to be worth the trouble, but if I was going to go with an electric pump, would it be worth it to try to find an OEM tank with a pump built into it? Aside from possibly running a wire I would think it should otherwise bolt right up, providing such a thing even exists...
Thanks in advance, Gents.
schuttothrill
1/2 ton status
am I on the right track with the lift pump though?
schuttothrill
1/2 ton status
the other day when we were cranking and cranking there was a little bit of wispy white drifting out afterwards. but not much to speak of really.. certainly no unburnt black or anything..
