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M1028- [under new management]

also hook a test light to the pos terminal of the battery and see if it lights up touching the terminal end of the glow plug. Of course remove the wire first.
 
Which relay? Glow plug relay? I have to be careful jumping stuff, since I'm 24 volt. I cant jump a positive to a 12v accessory with the body ground or it will get 24v and blow it for sure. I could probably use a separate battery though. This 24v **** is pretty annoying. Or maybe a better description is, I don't understand it very well, and it scares the **** out of me. lol

In case you aren't aware, the only thing thats 24 volts on a CUCV is the starter. Everything else is resisted back down to 12.
 
Yes the glow plug realy. the relay has a hot in from the battery and a hot out to the glow plugs. Jump the in to the out. It is the 2 big studs with the heavy cables.
 
Where is it? That's not ringing any bells. Sorry for the idiot reply here, I hate when I can't even sound like I know what I'm talking about...
 
I have a crappy looking metal cased horizontal relay on my driver side inner fender.. from what I remember it has a pale green wire and a white wire for sure.... Doesn't look very factory though because it has ****ty crimp connectors on it. I *think* it might have been for some cherries on the roof at one point as this was a range truck, and one of the wires leads to a toggle switch in the dash. I always wanted it to be a manual glow controller, but it doesn't seem to do anything when I switch it, and I can't find where the other wire goes from it...
 
sounds like your glow plugs are not working.. your relay is next to the brake booster and I think it is a pink wire coming from the resistors on the firewall behind the air cleaner. If you have voltage coming from the resistors you can short the two big posts on the relay with a screwdriver for 10 seconds then try to start. Be carefull using ether because if your glow plugs are working it can go boom.
 
DO NOT USE ANY STARTING FLUID OR EITHER. If your GP's are bad you can by pass the resistor and make them 12 volt by switching wires on the GP relay and install Delco 60G's, have you checked your GP card under the dash ?
 
I haven't checked the card, but will try shorting the relay near the booster. When I key on, I can certainly hear *some* relay in the dash area (engine bay or interior can't tell.. just a dull relay thud) donking on and off by itself, but it only stays on for a couple seconds at a time, and when its really cold out, maybe like 4 seconds at the most. Then cycles here and there. Also I've had the truck for at least three years, maybe four, and the glow plugs and fuel filter haven't been changed. :doah: Filter has a date of '08 on it.

If I short the relay, how can I tell if the glows are actually doing anything? take them all out one at a time and see if they get red hot? That seems inefficient...

I do realize that in order to get this figured out I'll have to turn a wrench at some point, but since the truck is currently 30 miles away I have to be wise with the few times I get to troubleshoot.

Whether or not the automatic controller is working I don't trust it, and eventually I think I'd like to take it out and just run a push button with some 60Gs. That way I can count to ten and know for sure that something is happening!

Before I get there though, I'd like to nail down what the problem is.
 
If the relay is clunking and the power is coming out the otherside during the cluck I would change the filter and plugs.
 
You don't have to remove the glow plugs to test them. A test light will tell you if you have any burned out glow plugs. A better option is an ohmmeter, it will tell you if you have any burned out or marginal glow plugs. Test each of them by disconnecting the wire at the spade lug and connect the tester to the spade lug and a good ground (I grounded to the threaded base of each glow plug). 0.8 to 1.2 Ohms is the normal range for good glow plugs using an ohmmeter.
 
Ok I think we have an ohm meter around somewhere.. I'm sure they need replaced anyway, but it would certainly give me a warm and fuzzy to know what's wrong before I start throwing parts at it...
 
Already done! Learned the hard way that it doesn't like Gear reduction when I converted.. She's got the big 200 amp relay for the starter now! *hogh hogh hogh* (Tim Allen)
 
M1028- The Green Ugly

Thinking I'm going to drop some coin on a new set of glows here pretty quick since we got more snow.

Now I'm a pretty adept googler and thrifty bargain shopper, but before I place an order on some 60Gs, are there any companies or locals that carry them that are board supporters? I'm not super concerned about getting the BEST deal ever, glows all seem to hover plus/minus 5 bucks anyway for a set.

I'll hold out to see what say the brotherhood.
 
On the 60G's you need to either grind down the tang or replace the wire plug on the gp wire they are a diff size than factory.
 
cucvfreek said:
On the 60G's you need to either grind down the tang or replace the wire plug on the gp wire they are a diff size than factory.
Click to expand...

Will it affect anything negatively if I grind down the tang? I'd like to replace the connectors if I could find OE replacement clips, mine seem pretty chintzy, and I don't trust the connections. they do work though.
 
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