KSSIII
Registered Member
It's a 69 cutlass, I'm gonna try and get it back on the road after the blazer!
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Mandarb
- Thread starter KSSIII
- Start date
KSSIII
Registered Member
is this a common leak( rear oil pan under crankshaft? I noticed some oil dripping while its running. The bolts seemed to have loosened I'm contemplating putting loctite on them.
Trying to pinpoint the major leaks, but it looks like everything it sleaking
Trying to pinpoint the major leaks, but it looks like everything it sleaking
handloader90
Building!
is this a common leak( rear oil pan under crankshaft? I noticed some oil dripping while its running. The bolts seemed to have loosened I'm contemplating putting loctite on them.
Trying to pinpoint the major leaks, but it looks like everything it sleaking
Put a new rear main seal in. It's super easy to do with the engine on a stand and flipped upside down.
The leak on near that head on the left in that pic could be coming from the back of the manifold, pull the manifold, clean all of the old gasket and rtv off really good like bare metal with no residue good and put new gaskets on with rtv inthe corners to seal up the small gaps, should be a dab of rtv in all four corners.
handloader90
Building!
That oil crud on the back of the block is most likely from that rear main seal leak, the oil is probably getting slung around in there and coating everything... the side of your flexplate probably has the same stuff on it, huh?
KSSIII
Registered Member
Rear main seal, and intake gasket, Ill check it out.
handloader90
Building!
They're both pretty cheap items and simple to replace. I'd run through all the gaskets and put new freeze plugs in, all of it is super cheap.
If you decide to replace the oil pan gasket look into the felpro 1 piece rubber gasket, it has steel rings embedded into it so you can't over torque the bolts and deform the oil pan + its one piece and rubber and reuseable and it's blue lol.
Felpro makes the same kinda deal for valve cover gaskets.
Pick up a bottle of indian head shellack for yoyr paper gaskets and there's this grey rtv that comes in a caulking tube, forget the name but I've got a few bottles in the garage I think it's called Right Stuff 1 minute gasket, legit stuff.
Another note, your oilpan gasket depends on your oil pan type some take a thick gasket while others take a thin gasket has to do with the space under the timing cover... you'll have to do some research on it but you just have to take the measurement in that area and compare it to the info floating around online.
If you decide to replace the oil pan gasket look into the felpro 1 piece rubber gasket, it has steel rings embedded into it so you can't over torque the bolts and deform the oil pan + its one piece and rubber and reuseable and it's blue lol.
Felpro makes the same kinda deal for valve cover gaskets.
Pick up a bottle of indian head shellack for yoyr paper gaskets and there's this grey rtv that comes in a caulking tube, forget the name but I've got a few bottles in the garage I think it's called Right Stuff 1 minute gasket, legit stuff.
Another note, your oilpan gasket depends on your oil pan type some take a thick gasket while others take a thin gasket has to do with the space under the timing cover... you'll have to do some research on it but you just have to take the measurement in that area and compare it to the info floating around online.
Back to the Trans and T-case. The T-case adaptor (racetrack, or figure 8 style) between the SM 465 and NP 205 are prone to cracking. There is no such thing as an acceptable crack. If it's cracked, but not broken it needs to be repaired. It's not a tremendously difficult job, but it is specific, and a bit time consuming to do it right.
Cast iron is finicky to weld without making things worse.
The SM 465 is nearly bombproof. The biggest issues with them are all shifter related. You could probably search here and find more info on shifter fixes...
Cast iron is finicky to weld without making things worse.
The SM 465 is nearly bombproof. The biggest issues with them are all shifter related. You could probably search here and find more info on shifter fixes...
That was quick progress. 
Did you grind down the nose on that starter motor? The CUCVs came with an enclosed nose starter that is not compatible with the manual flywheel. I took a grinder to mine when I installed the flywheel. Yours looks like it has already been opened up.
Pictures here if you wanna see what I'm talking about.
Did you grind down the nose on that starter motor? The CUCVs came with an enclosed nose starter that is not compatible with the manual flywheel. I took a grinder to mine when I installed the flywheel. Yours looks like it has already been opened up.
Pictures here if you wanna see what I'm talking about.
KSSIII
Registered Member
Thats true I'm going to have to get it welded, now just to figure out how to mount it ocrrectly so it wont crack again. All it had when installed was a plate mounted to another cross member underneath it.
KSSIII
Registered Member
I havent grinded it down yet, I was actually trying to figure out how much of the nose I needed to grind down or the whole nose? I thought the portion tip of the of starter was needed for the starter to function properly? Still cant see the pictures lolThat was quick progress.
Did you grind down the nose on that starter motor? The CUCVs came with an enclosed nose starter that is not compatible with the manual flywheel. I took a grinder to mine when I installed the flywheel. Yours looks like it has already been opened up.
Pictures here if you wanna see what I'm talking about.
KSSIII
Registered Member
It wouldnt be a bad idea to run through all my gaskets, For now I should just do the rear main seal, oil pan gasket and that freezeplug awhile the transmissions out. Then I'll get to the rest later on
Ask yourself how much it would cost to buy a new 24V starter motor, and then realize how much cheaper it is just to pay up for a membership so you can see how the rest of us have already solved these problems.
When you do pay up you'll be able to read through my CUCV thread and see how I am doing my conversion. Starter motor pics included.
Also, mine was leaking from that cam plug above the crankshaft. That doesn't mean that yours will also be leaking there, but it's worth cleaning that area up and then firing the engine to see where the leaks are coming from.
handloader90
Building!
For whatever reason I forgot that you had a 6.2...
Hey, I didn't think about it last night, but the intake manifold on a 6.2 carries no fluids, it's just a set of air pipes. There can be no oil leaking from the intake on this engine, the intake gasket is downright optional. Sorry I didn't catch that last night.
"Right Stuff" is very good gasket maker (can often be used in lieu of a gasket), Sets up in just a few minutes, and adheres well. The failure rate is low, but it is a pain to clean off if you ever want to reopen the sealed surface. Keep that in mind and use judiciously.
handloader90
Building!
I don't know squat about 6.2's... thought it was a small block for whatever reason.Hey, I didn't think about it last night, but the intake manifold on a 6.2 carries no fluids, it's just a set of air pipes. There can be no oil leaking from the intake on this engine, the intake gasket is downright optional. Sorry I didn't catch that last night.
"Right Stuff" is very good gasket maker (can often be used in lieu of a gasket), Sets up in just a few minutes, and adheres well. The failure rate is low, but it is a pain to clean off if you ever want to reopen the sealed surface. Keep that in mind and use judiciously.
KSSIII
Registered Member
I new problem has risen D: i dont think its getting spark. I checked out the "distributor" i have never seen anything like it, its vacuum operated? Im pretty sure i got everything reconnected under the dash except for what appears to be a ground wire that was attached to the pedal assembly. Normally id just connect the coil straight to the battery but i dont see no coil haha
KSSIII
Registered Member
And should i be able to see if im gettingfuel pulling on the throttle and looking down the intake manifold?
Can't tell if you're kidding or not. But nope, nope, and nope.
There is no coil and no distributor on a diesel. Nor is there any spark. And nothing on that engine is vacuum operated. There is a vacuum switch on the throttle input to the injector pump, but that is for controlling the automatic transmission. You no longer need that, so your truck has no need for vacuum anywhere. Don't just yank the vacuum pump out, though, it shares a shaft with the oil pump.
If you truly are confused about the diesel fuel system I'll talk ya through it, but it's not at all like the mud truck you're parting out.
No. There is no fuel inside the intake manifold, this is an IDI diesel engine. Fuel is injected into small combustion chambers built into the heads.
