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Mandarb

Sell the Cadi? Sell the Cutty?

  • Cutty

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Cadi

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Neither

    Votes: 1 33.3%

  • Both

    Votes: 2 66.7%
  • Total voters
    3
campfire said:
I have a spare carrier and a spare axle lying around. How many splines do your axle shafts have? It should be a 28-spline axle, but later trucks got 30-spline axles. If it's 28, I may be able to help.
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I Apologize I havent been working on the truck lately, other complications. But I'm unabble to verify the splines, I'll let you know if I ever find out
 
I decided to swap the springs in a later date. Right now to finish the swap I have to drill new cross-member holes and find a new driveshaft
 
I'm sort of skeptical about drilling the new transmission/transfercase crossmember mounts. Anyone have experience with this? what kind of measurements do you make before drilling?
 
Also How should I brace the Np205, should i Just leave it hanging off the adaptor? or should I brace it somehow?
 
KSSIII said:
I Apologize I havent been working on the truck lately, other complications. But I'm unabble to verify the splines, I'll let you know if I ever find out
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Ok. Since posting that I have removed the stock front axle from my own M1009 (mine came Frankensteined with mismatching axles, so I had to swap out the stock front to match the non-stock rear). So I now have 2 spare axles and an extra carrier lying around. All are 28-spline.
 
KSSIII said:
I'm sort of skeptical about drilling the new transmission/transfercase crossmember mounts. Anyone have experience with this? what kind of measurements do you make before drilling?
Click to expand...

What are you trying to do here? Attach the cross member to the frame? I'd get everything mounted into place (with the cross member clamped to the frame) and then drill through both pieces of steel in place.

Or are you talking about getting the transmission mounted to the cross member? In that case, I grabbed a piece of scrap that I had lying around and modified it to fit the gap that I had. There are lots of ways to fab up a mount, and some are definitely better than others.

I think I need pictures to understand what you're doing.
 
campfire said:
What are you trying to do here? Attach the cross member to the frame? I'd get everything mounted into place (with the cross member clamped to the frame) and then drill through both pieces of steel in place.

Or are you talking about getting the transmission mounted to the cross member? In that case, I grabbed a piece of scrap that I had lying around and modified it to fit the gap that I had. There are lots of ways to fab up a mount, and some are definitely better than others.

I think I need pictures to understand what you're doing.
Click to expand...

As of right now i have the transmission, adapter/crossmember, and transfer case bolted together. I have a jackstand holding it all up by the crossmember.

I could potentially drill the crossmember in as it sits now. I want to make sure everything is aligned when its all bolted in.
I might be overthinking it all..

I was wondering what percations everyone takes to do this. I wouldnt want the tailshaft to to be offset or anything.
 
KSSIII said:
As of right now i have the transmission, adapter/crossmember, and transfer case bolted together. I have a jackstand holding it all up by the crossmember.

I could potentially drill the crossmember in as it sits now. I want to make sure everything is aligned when its all bolted in.
I might be overthinking it all..

I was wondering what percations everyone takes to do this. I wouldnt want the tailshaft to to be offset or anything.
Click to expand...

Assuming you have the crossmember equally spaced between the frame rails, everything will still be centered. Since you took the cross member from the same frame series, it should be a pretty straight forward swap. The vertical component should be the same, it's just that the transmissions are different lengths. If your donor truck was a few years newer it would be a straight-up bolt-in swap like mine was. And the cross member isn't long enough for you to install it with a horizontal offset (unless I'm missing something). IMO you are overthinking this. Get your vertical height right and the rest will be fine. Measure your old drivetrain combination if you have any doubts about what the adapter height should be.

In the worst possible case, if you managed to mess this up, you would simply be left with an extra hole in your frame rail after you corrected the location. Hardly something to get worried about.
 
Have you read through my CUCV thread? I haven't done many mods, but this happens to be one of them. Enjoy the pictures and use them to build your confidence. You can do this.

:popcorn:
 
UPDATE: Haven't given up. Just struggling looking for a rear shaft... and motivation for doing car stuff :thumb: Eventually I'll find my way
 
campfire said:
Did the donor truck's driveshaft not work?
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The thing is, the driveshaft I have is fitted to the truck with a lift kit, which I was planning to install at the same time to the tranny,
 
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campfire said:
Did the donor truck's driveshaft not work?
Click to expand...
The thing is, the driveshaft I have is fitted to the truck with a lift kit, which I was planning to install at the same time to the tranny, but I can't seem to find the will, and the energy to go through with the lifting process at the moment (personal issues) . So, I figured, for now to get it on the road, I should just find another shaft.
 
$_1.JPG

Found a driveshaft from a isuzu rodeo the ujoints a believe are the same, the length should work/ but ive noticed it is much lighter (aluminum) but larger in diameter.
 
Stock front shaft should be 1310 joints, stock rear should be 1350 joints. There are a number of folks running conversion joints around here, but typically they're adapting up to 1410 joints. I've never heard of using one to downgrade the U-joint size.
 
campfire said:
Stock front shaft should be 1310 joints, stock rear should be 1350 joints. There are a number of folks running conversion joints around here, but typically they're adapting up to 1410 joints. I've never heard of using one to downgrade the U-joint size.
Click to expand...

I'm a little skeptical on running this shaft but, until I can find or afford anything else, i'm gonna hope it works lol
 
campfire said:
Rear shaft, right? What length are you needing? What happened to the shaft from the donor rig?
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yep rear shaft, I was looking for a shaft about that's about 43inches. but i'm probably not gonna use this shaft very long, just until I install the lift kit
 
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