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My 5.3 swap thread!

So the first thing im going to do is un bolt the torque converter again just to quickly rule that out. Then, maybe un bolt the exhaust if that doesnt work. After that im going to be pretty stumped again...
 
So the first thing im going to do is un bolt the torque converter again just to quickly rule that out. Then, maybe un bolt the exhaust if that doesnt work. After that im going to be pretty stumped again...


Dont' get discouraged so quickly! You've been so diligent through the whole process. Both those "fixes" seem like they are a lot of work, for what they will rule out.

Hold your horses, wait for Russel to get on here, and systematically fix things based on those codes.

I hate to say it, but most of those ECM's (well, anything after our vintage) are smarter than we are.
 
Yea I'm not too awfully worried about. Just a bit of a bummer. I just think It's awfully strange how this engine ran perfect until I hooked everything all up. And after I hooked it all up it runs near identical to how it did before.
 
sounds like you just need to run without a torque converter and you're good to go. :P

make sure you post the solution so us followers can avoid the problem. ;)
 
Well i think instead of finishing i'll just go ahead anf push it off a cliff. Got it pretty much ready to hit the road this morning and fire it up. Whats it doing? Thats right! Idling like crap and running pig rich! :doah: Anyway, im getting the following codes, p0480, p0803, p1635, p1639. So i dont know what the difference between now and the last time i started it in the videos but something done went hay wire! Sense the last viseos, i have removed the intake, added the new knock sensors, bolted the intake back on using new gaskets, hooked the exhaust the rest of the way up, bolted up the torque converter and hooked up the cooling system.

P0480 Is a cool fan relay circuit code
P0803 Is a trans code which proably didnt get taken out when he reflashed the pcm
P1635 and P1639 are 5volt referance code which code just be a ground problem.

The two 5 volt codes are proably causing the rough running.
 
Im not going to discount that as a possibility but the thing is, i didnt touch the grounds between now and the last time i ran it.
 
I did clear the codes once already. Again, im not going to rule the charging out as an issue but the motor ran fine when i test fired it with no alternator even on the thing.
 
Transmission swap thread time?????

TBI= Running like ****
LS= Running like ****
One common thing between the two= TH400
Fix= 4L80
=PROFIT

Really I just think the 4L80 would be cool, just sayin. :popcorn:
 
Did you let it run a while? Rev it up and try to clear it out? Could be something as simple as running it a short time cold and shutting it down. This somehow can cause a flooding situation. I've seen it happen, had cars towed in because of it. Example; Turns out the customer had started the vehicle, put it in gear to move it out of the driveway (to let another car out) pulled back into the driveway and shut it off. Successfully flooding the engine. Seen it on Volvos, Nissans, VWs. An oil change and some plug cleaning or replacement always solved it.

Grasping at straws but hoping it's something that simple for you.
 
I would be checking all my grounds first thing and making sure I did not pinch any wires in the bellhousing. Were you welding with the pcm hooked up? I fried one doing that recently...
 
TBI= Running like ****
LS= Running like ****
One common thing between the two= TH400
Fix= 4L80
=PROFIT

Really I just think the 4L80 would be cool, just sayin. :popcorn:

The fact that both motors run bad when hooked up to the trans does make me wonder.

Did you let it run a while? Rev it up and try to clear it out? Could be something as simple as running it a short time cold and shutting it down. This somehow can cause a flooding situation. I've seen it happen, had cars towed in because of it. Example; Turns out the customer had started the vehicle, put it in gear to move it out of the driveway (to let another car out) pulled back into the driveway and shut it off. Successfully flooding the engine. Seen it on Volvos, Nissans, VWs. An oil change and some plug cleaning or replacement always solved it.

Grasping at straws but hoping it's something that simple for you.

Didnt run it for too long but long enough i think. And yea that was my first thought also so i did try raising the RPM to try and clear it out and got no results.

I would be checking all my grounds first thing and making sure I did not pinch any wires in the bellhousing. Were you welding with the pcm hooked up? I fried one doing that recently...

Thanks Russell! I didnt realize you were down at KOH! Dont worry about replying to this thread while your down there, just enjoy it! But, i will check all the grounds, i was very careful to check over and over again that i didnt pinch anything in the bellhousing but i will check again. The thing is, i didnt remove the grounds between the last time that i test fired it and now. The torque converter is only three bolts so im going to go out and pull them and start it again just for fun because this thing really is running just like the 350 was. And no, i didnt weld on the truck at all. Any welding i did to the exhaust was done on the bench.
 
Ok, It's not the torque converter, it could be the knock sensors, this one questionable ground, or the fan blowing into the maf. Cause here's where I'm at now, I removed the fan, disconnected the fan, and the knock sensors and wiggled this one ground and now it runs perfect. Going to bolt the converter back up and reverse the things that i have done to narrow it down.
 
Videos. Dont remember which was what. I think the first two are of it running bad and the third is it running good and the fourth is just seeing how it fires back up after shutting it off. i'll have to watch them again.

EDIT: ok, the first one is with the torque converter unbolted but the truck still running bad, second is torque converter un bolted but truck running good. Third is torque converter bolted back up and truck running good. Forth is just seeing how it restarts.



[youtube]a2rL-dCmOuU[/youtube]

 
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Ok, It's not the torque converter, it could be the knock sensors, this one questionable ground, or the fan blowing into the maf. Cause here's where I'm at now, I removed the fan, disconnected the fan, and the knock sensors and wiggled this one ground and now it runs perfect. Going to bolt the converter back up and reverse the things that i have done to narrow it down.

Don't think its the knock sensors. I would replace that ground I bet thats the problem. Is the maf just hooked onto the front of the intake the fan may be causing it to read a incorrect amount of flow.
 
My buddy had a LT1 in his 94 Camaro that was giving him all kinds of issues. He was replacing Opti-Sparks, plugs, wires, ECMs, etc and after a long time he noticed that the guy who installed his exhaust had left a ground loose. Once re-connected, all was well.

Make sure you have a ground from battery to frame, motor to frame and motor to body and body to frame.

Hope this helps.
 
Is the maf just hooked onto the front of the intake the fan may be causing it to read a incorrect amount of flow.
this sounds like a good thing to check out. I was just reading a bunch of info on swaps, and a few places recommend running without the MAF just because it only provides a small benefit, and that is only if you have the correct stock intake on it and nothing to disturb the air flow.

if you've got a fan blowing down your intake, that seems likely to screw up the MAF.
 
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