y5mgisi
1 ton status
Oh yea, and the alternator is not charging... So i gotta figure that out.
So the first thing im going to do is un bolt the torque converter again just to quickly rule that out. Then, maybe un bolt the exhaust if that doesnt work. After that im going to be pretty stumped again...
so far!
Well i think instead of finishing i'll just go ahead anf push it off a cliff. Got it pretty much ready to hit the road this morning and fire it up. Whats it doing? Thats right! Idling like crap and running pig rich!Anyway, im getting the following codes, p0480, p0803, p1635, p1639. So i dont know what the difference between now and the last time i started it in the videos but something done went hay wire! Sense the last viseos, i have removed the intake, added the new knock sensors, bolted the intake back on using new gaskets, hooked the exhaust the rest of the way up, bolted up the torque converter and hooked up the cooling system.

TBI= Running like ****
LS= Running like ****
One common thing between the two= TH400
Fix= 4L80
=PROFIT
Really I just think the 4L80 would be cool, just sayin.![]()
Did you let it run a while? Rev it up and try to clear it out? Could be something as simple as running it a short time cold and shutting it down. This somehow can cause a flooding situation. I've seen it happen, had cars towed in because of it. Example; Turns out the customer had started the vehicle, put it in gear to move it out of the driveway (to let another car out) pulled back into the driveway and shut it off. Successfully flooding the engine. Seen it on Volvos, Nissans, VWs. An oil change and some plug cleaning or replacement always solved it.
Grasping at straws but hoping it's something that simple for you.
I would be checking all my grounds first thing and making sure I did not pinch any wires in the bellhousing. Were you welding with the pcm hooked up? I fried one doing that recently...
Ok, It's not the torque converter, it could be the knock sensors, this one questionable ground, or the fan blowing into the maf. Cause here's where I'm at now, I removed the fan, disconnected the fan, and the knock sensors and wiggled this one ground and now it runs perfect. Going to bolt the converter back up and reverse the things that i have done to narrow it down.
this sounds like a good thing to check out. I was just reading a bunch of info on swaps, and a few places recommend running without the MAF just because it only provides a small benefit, and that is only if you have the correct stock intake on it and nothing to disturb the air flow.Is the maf just hooked onto the front of the intake the fan may be causing it to read a incorrect amount of flow.