CK5
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New Here and can't seem to post anywhere else, Looking for a little help.

OK, you have accomplished a lot, even if it does not seem like it.

Now we can be fairly sure that it is not a front steering shimmy, a out of balance tire
or bad rim, or broken motor mount.

I suspect that the ultimate problem is going to be driveshaft angle, but I think there is a related problem right now.

When you raise a vehicle to give the clearance to put on bigger tires and thereby more ground clearance, the drive shafts have to point farther down.

U-joints have a maximum amount of flex back and forth that they like. When you exceed that, bad things start happening.

When you exceed it a lot, the driveshaft U-joints have to go from bent a long way one way to bent the same amount the other way, and this sets up a bad vibration.

But, if your driveshaft is right on the limit, it won't vibrate all that much, but since the joints are shifting fast and far, they wear out fast.

Right off the top of my head, I do not know of any way to stop a driveshaft out of limits from vibrating temporarily. Once you go too far, that shaft is going to vibrate until you correct the angle.

In your case, it does not seem to have vibrated at first.
I think that you have a bad U-Joint, probably brought on by the excessive angle.
I would take one end or the other of the driveshaft off, and try to flex all the joints.
Better to take both ends off, but I am lazy. I bet you are going to find one that is binding and is hard to flex.
This would cause the vibration.

To double check, you SHOULD be able to remove the rear driveshaft, Lock the front hubs, and put the transfer case into HiLoc, and drive off.
If its the rear shaft, the vibration should be gone.

Driving in HiLoc on dry hard surfaced roads should be fine with the rear driveshaft removed.
I remember you were asking about the different gear settings. If you understand how a differential works, and why its necessary, which I assume you do because you have worked on cars before, I will type up a reasonably brief account of 4WD, and what you need to know to operate it, later on tomorrow.

J.
 
Just to add to your knowledge base, those things that are welded to your driveshaft, 2 look like a disc with 4 tack welds the other is a rectangle with what looks like 4 dimples. Those are your driveshaft weights.

If you do end up taking it to a mechanic take it to one with lots of experience with lifted 4x4s, sometimes mechanics are just stupid when it comes to modified rigs. A 4x4 shop would be a better choice one that does general repair work would be great.

It seems to me you have a u joint issue. The fact that the shaking did not start until a couple days after you bought it suggests that fact.

I am not totally sure about this but you have blocks in the rear and the vast majority of blocks have a taper in them to correct for driveshaft angle.

I don't recollect you have taken off either driveshaft and gone for a drive, this needs to be the next step.

Fordum is correct driving with the rear shaft removed and the transfer case in hi loc will not damage anything.

do this and see where your vibe is. No change take off the front driveshaft, replace the rear and go for the same drive.

While the driveshafts are off remove the caps, the caps will twist, twist one and pull it off, be careful pulling it off, they have needle bearings in them that can and do come out. The inside should have some grease in it, no rust and the needle bearings should look pretty new. It should be obvious which ones are good and which ones are bad.

If your u joints are all good, then you need to check every single bolt on the underside. These vibrations are not something that is complicated. It just takes some methodical work. You eliminate one possibility and move on to the next

Like I said if you end up taking it to a shop take it to a 4x4 specific shop. I have heard of mechanics just telling people that lifted trucks just drive crappy and vibrate, when it fact it was either a u joint, or something simple like that
 
We were losing some tranny fluid when it was perchased, but we figured that ws the rear DS seal at the TC. (also the fluids being low is whats causing a loud, "CLUNK" when transfering from park to reverse, reverse to drive and vise versa?)

Really want to figure this out before I have to take it to a mechanic and pay a freaking 85.00$ an hour labor freaking bill....

any other ideas other wise im pretty much screwed.... :(


Any Idea about this at all though?? :confused:
 
You are going to love this question<G>. Is the noise a loud clunk, or more of a high pitched ping!?

A ping, is going to be the same problem as the vibration. A bad U-Joint

A clunk, unless your idle speed is too high, is due to slop in the drive train.
Some is normal.
There is a lot of places in a 4wd for there to develop a little play, all of which adds up.

The best way to check, is to put the transfer case in high, the transmission in park, and make sure the truck is on level ground. You want the transmission to not be holding the weight of the truck.
Try to push it back and forth to be sure.

When the weight is off the drivetrain, crawl under, grab the driveshaft, and twist it hard both ways.
If you hear the clunk, try to figure out where it is coming from. Rear end, transfer case, slip joint in the drive shaft, or one of the U-joints.

Some rear end guts clunk some don't. A stock "open" rear end, nevermind what that means right now, does not have a clunk when correct.

But some limited slip/positraction systems do so normally.
There is no way to tell what you have in yours without taking the cover off and looking.

Actually, thats not true. You can jack up both rear wheels, turn one by hand and if the other turns the same way, you have some kind of limited slip unit. Otherwise, the other will usually turn the opposite way.

However, unless the idle speed it way too high, I am going to make a suggestion that I otherwise would never make.

Don't worry about the clunk right now. It may need fixing, but the vibration is more pressing.
And fixing the vibration might fix the clunk.

My suggestion for a plan of attack right now, is to pull the rear driveshaft.
Check it for a frozen bearing cap on a U-Joint.

While you are under there, with the shaft out, twist the yoke coming out of the transfer case with the tranny in park, listening for the clunk.
Also, do the same for the rear end.

I am betting that you will find a lot of slop in the transfer case. Unless I am wrong,
(help me out here folks)
your transfer case uses a chain drive.

It has a big roller chain inside that is quiet, has less friction than gears, but will stretch with use and cause a lot of slop. Eventually it will get so bad it will start to slip and have to be replaced.

Don't worry about that now, lets get the vibration fixed.


J.
 
You are going to love this question<G>. Is the noise a loud clunk, or more of a high pitched ping!?

A ping, is going to be the same problem as the vibration. A bad U-Joint

A clunk, unless your idle speed is too high, is due to slop in the drive train.
Some is normal.

J.


Its a definite "CLUNK" my dads Ranger has a "PING"

Mybe a better way to explain is to say, when i go from park to reverse, the clunk happens, and it feels like the truck either drops, or rolls back a little, witch makes sence. put he noise is much louder going from drive to reverse..
 
Dad and I Are going to take front and rear off and give her a good looking at, see if there isnt anything noticable, and do the above mentioned process. let ya know how it goes later toady.

One last question.
The pan by the TC (with the slight angle on the right side corner) is most likely the oil leak, replaced all other seals besides oil pan and TC pan so that could be the last resort for the oil leak? easy gasket to change out?
 
Sounds like the transmission pan. Before you pull it, get the parts needed to service the transmission. Filter, gasket, etc.
Ask here, plenty of folks who can tell you what you will need.

Also, have your camera ready as you work. Anything that looks strange, wrong, or just unknown, take at least two pictures of it.
One far enough back so we can see where it is, and then one close enough to tell what it is.

I saw a picture here one time of a tight closeup of a bolt head. All you could see was the head filling the whole frame.
With the question "Any idea what this bolt is for?"

The guys who hang out here are darn good, but even they have their limits<G>.

J.
 
TCpan2.jpg

this is the one im talking about.....
lots of oil around the rim of it....
wipe it all down and there's as much there again the next day.....
 
Yep! Turbo 350 transmission pan. Grab a new filter and gasket and just service the trans.

get big catch pan
remove pan bolts
make HUGE mess removing pan :-)
remove filter
install new filter
clean any dirt or debris from pan and make sure sealing surface is straight.
install new gasket, reinstall pan.
no sealant is necessary and don't tighten the pan bolts too tight. only needs like 10 - 15 foot pounds. Otherwise the pan lip will bend and leak like crazy.

add new fluid and check level with engine running and trans hot.

Cheers,

Rufus
 
Think thats the problem... its rather bent and distorted already.... :(


Well, if it is not bent too bad you might be able to straighten things out using a hammer and flat spot to flatten out the dimples the bolts have made.

If it is too far gone you might need a new pan. only way to tell for sure is to change the gasket out and see if you can get it to seal. If not, visit your local speed shop or check out jegs or summit for a replacement pan.

Rufus
 
On a further note, in my humble opinion stay away from the aluminum pans if you need a replacement. I think they are great for a street truck or car and they have great advantages for sealing as they don't bend easily if overtightened. But, in an offload vehicle I prefer a GOOD steel pan. If a steel pan gets hit by a rock while wheeling they may leak a bit but in most cases (not all) will get you home. An aluminum pan hit by the same rock has a tendency of just cracking and leaving a huge hole for your trans fluid to drain out. Not conducive to getting home.

Others may have other opinions on the subject.

Cheers,

Rufus
 
And maybe you should see if you can find a Haynes or Chilton manual that covers the year of the Blazer and motor/trans/TC that you have.
 
And maybe you should see if you can find a Haynes or Chilton manual that covers the year of the Blazer and motor/trans/TC that you have.


Have a haynes manual for the body it seems...

it is a 67-87 4WD manual. seems to me as I read through this that I have different yeared parts thats gonna make this a tad bit harder.

Read through the manual almost twice now...
 
Yep should have a cutaway pic of a stepside on the front cover.
It has 203 205 and 208 TC's in there, different axles, tranny's and engines also.
 
Alright well took the rear diff. off and ohhh damn. Needless to say we found our shaking problem for sure. gonna post pics in a little so ya'll can see but im sure you got an idea of what its gonna be like already....
 
Well I was gonna post the pics but can't get it to load.
basically. the U-joints connected at the TC were destroyed. part of the fork end on the drive shaft has been chipped, like it hit a boulder or so. on of the caps thats help on buthe U-Bolt was mangled, destroyed. was so pent we had to hit out with a hammer.

Joints at the axel looked fine. not worn or shaved or anything.

Yoke coming out of TC was okay, not bent or distored to the look. Going to by all new U-Joints and U-Bolts at napa tomorrow.

Main question is that the chip in the drive shaft fork, is it serious enough to where the shaft need be replaced becuase of imbalancement? we though maybe fill with some liquid steel, JB weld? just so it doesnt have a rough chipped look...

hopefully will get some pics up later so you can see what I'm trying to explain.

Prety sure this will fix the shaking and the clunking noises I've been hearing!!
 
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