Probably will not find a u-bolt at NAPA. They should have the joints, but take the old ones with you. Compare the distance across the "cross", and the size of the bearing cap.
Problem is that none of this is stock on your vehicle. Good news is, if you get a genuine parts guy instead of a number puller, they should recognize the joint. There are several that are used and someone who is used to them can tell them apart.
When you get the right part, make a note of the part number in a notebook, and keep doing that for any parts you buy until you get to the point you can rattle off part numbers without consulting your notes.
Check out 1BEATK5's tag line back on post 13. Everything in there means something. On the third line, you see 1350cv s. The 1350 is a Spicer part number for a U-joint. In this case its a special kind of one called a Constant Velocity joint. They are used when the driveline angle is too much for a standard u-joint. They look like two U-Joints joined together.
The 1350 is the actual cross and bearing caps. Some are in CVs, and some in standard joints.
Don't worry if yours are not stock. EVERYbody upgrades their U-joints to bigger sizes sooner or later.
This is why you make notes. So you can walk into a parts house and ask for a Spicer 1350 and get the right part.
Even if your truck originally used 1330s.
Also, check all 4 caps for size. They make u-joints with two different sizes. I have a set on my truck. Sometimes you cannot get a yoke that fits a certain size rear end with the size U-joint you need to match your driveshaft.
As for the u-bolts, these are generally not a parts house item. But, they are usually an easy find in junkyards or neighbor's driveways late at night.......
If you have a Pick N Pull junkyard in your area, go make friends with them. I was blessed growing up to have a friend who owned his own junkyard.
Now I have to grub with the rest at the local PNP.
Do post the picture of the chip. Balance is not as worrysome in this case as strength.
There are some places you can chip off and it looks bad. There are other places that the joint will fail under a load.
The guys here will know. They have limped home with just about every type of U-joint yoke damage there is.
While you are taking pictures, take a couple of where the rear leaf springs mount onto the rear axle. Try to do it from the side, like over the rear chunk looking toward the tire.
We're going to need that.
J.
Problem is that none of this is stock on your vehicle. Good news is, if you get a genuine parts guy instead of a number puller, they should recognize the joint. There are several that are used and someone who is used to them can tell them apart.
When you get the right part, make a note of the part number in a notebook, and keep doing that for any parts you buy until you get to the point you can rattle off part numbers without consulting your notes.
Check out 1BEATK5's tag line back on post 13. Everything in there means something. On the third line, you see 1350cv s. The 1350 is a Spicer part number for a U-joint. In this case its a special kind of one called a Constant Velocity joint. They are used when the driveline angle is too much for a standard u-joint. They look like two U-Joints joined together.
The 1350 is the actual cross and bearing caps. Some are in CVs, and some in standard joints.
Don't worry if yours are not stock. EVERYbody upgrades their U-joints to bigger sizes sooner or later.
This is why you make notes. So you can walk into a parts house and ask for a Spicer 1350 and get the right part.
Even if your truck originally used 1330s.
Also, check all 4 caps for size. They make u-joints with two different sizes. I have a set on my truck. Sometimes you cannot get a yoke that fits a certain size rear end with the size U-joint you need to match your driveshaft.
As for the u-bolts, these are generally not a parts house item. But, they are usually an easy find in junkyards or neighbor's driveways late at night.......
If you have a Pick N Pull junkyard in your area, go make friends with them. I was blessed growing up to have a friend who owned his own junkyard.
Now I have to grub with the rest at the local PNP.
Do post the picture of the chip. Balance is not as worrysome in this case as strength.
There are some places you can chip off and it looks bad. There are other places that the joint will fail under a load.
The guys here will know. They have limped home with just about every type of U-joint yoke damage there is.
While you are taking pictures, take a couple of where the rear leaf springs mount onto the rear axle. Try to do it from the side, like over the rear chunk looking toward the tire.
We're going to need that.
J.
and now I have a 14BFF sitting in my shop waiting for a D60 to come around... Alot to bite off for an 18 year old.
