CK5
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Old Iron 2.0
- Thread starter handloader90
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- smashed a$$
Just crank your prop valve all the way shut then you might could burn em off. Mine were awesome til I did a brake test on gravel in two wheel drive then I noticed the rear locking up first.
handloader90
Building!
The knob is backed almost all the way out towards the little arrow on the knob that says "Less Brakes". If I turned it in it allows more pressure to be applied to the rear brakes, right?
That's how mine is. I checked it by blowing through it before I installed it. Mines backed out 8 turns in winter and currently 6 turns and all the way out is 10 turns.
Those JB7 calipers aren't going to work with a Dana 60, just take them back.
That crossmember is pretty standard on earlier trucks.
The NP205 is not factory to that truck, neither is a Dana 44, the 12 bolt might be.
Might be a body swap onto a different frame?
That seat is vinyl.
Martin
That crossmember is pretty standard on earlier trucks.
The NP205 is not factory to that truck, neither is a Dana 44, the 12 bolt might be.
Might be a body swap onto a different frame?
That seat is vinyl.
Martin
handloader90
Building!
The JB7's will work with some brackets from a company called TMR.
I'll get under the truck and look at the frame horns.
handloader90
Building!
Pulled the carb and the adapter today.
Drilled a hole in the back of the adapter and tapped it with a 1/4"-18 NPT tap. Tap went in the hole just a hair crooked but everything is good. There a 90° elbow with a 3/8 barbed fitting in there.
Now my brakes have the proper vacuum source and I have a working PCV valve.
Was gonna rebuild the carb since I have the rebuild kit. Hosed it down with carb cleaner and slapped it back in.
Redid the ground wire on the electric choke, now it idles really nice.
Drilled a hole in the back of the adapter and tapped it with a 1/4"-18 NPT tap. Tap went in the hole just a hair crooked but everything is good. There a 90° elbow with a 3/8 barbed fitting in there.
Now my brakes have the proper vacuum source and I have a working PCV valve.
Was gonna rebuild the carb since I have the rebuild kit. Hosed it down with carb cleaner and slapped it back in.
Redid the ground wire on the electric choke, now it idles really nice.
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handloader90
Building!
I'm thinking about keeping the stock stuff. It ALL needs to be replaced less the caliper brackets.
If I kept the 1 ton brakes on the 60 would you recommend me use JB6 or JB7 calipers in the rear?
handloader90
Building!
Frame horns are closed in and rounded off like like the '73-'80's I've owned.
Um kay
handloader90
Building!
Gonna assume the '82 body was swapped onto a '73-'80 frame.
They had the open ended frame horns starting in '81 right?
handloader90
Building!
1st pic is '73-'80
2nd pic is '81-'87('91)
I'm not 100% positive but I thought the frame rail changes took place in '81, I could be completely wrong though...
Was kinda upset about this because there are a few more aftermarket options with the '81-'87 frame rails. The TNA winch cradle being one.
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handloader90
Building!
Here's mine:
It's all good though. Gonna throw a set of B52's on there and it won't really matter
It's all good though. Gonna throw a set of B52's on there and it won't really matter
handloader90
Building!
Replaced the top on my stove this morning. That was interesting.
Yes, '81 was the year they changed the frame, looks like you have a body swap. Or a front clip. What does the cab VIN say?
Martin
Martin
As for the brakes, I would go factory Dana 60 in the front, and JB6 in the rear. I've done that without using an aftermarket proportioning valve.
Martin
Martin
handloader90
Building!
Keep the 1/2 ton brakes booster and master cylinder?
