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One Piece at a Time: My 1985 Diesel Suburban

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Spent the afternoon addressing some repair items following the trip to Katemcy:
  • replace the parabolic tie rod
  • PM all four rod ends
  • upgrade the hardware holding the magnum box to the trans adapter
Front end work went well enough, I'll double check the alignment tomorrow, but it should be at zero toe.
IMG_0148.JPG

IMG_0150.JPG

The hardware that came with the magnum box didn't have any locking features, so the threads were backing out and occasionally popped the box out of gear on deceleration. This was unexpected. My favorite hardware store had grade 8 flange heads, which I combined with external tooth lock washers and some fresh blue locktite. Can't have it popping out on the drives to Colorado and Utah. Meanwhile, eight new Stanadyne injectors are at my local diesel shop.
IMG_0151.JPG

If the Charger is the mistress, then the Suburban is my long time girlfriend. The wife considers this is only mildly funny.

David
 
Last edited:
campfire said:
Weren't your injectors already replaced in the recent past?
Click to expand...
I replaced the injection pump. The current short body injectors have about 60K miles, and I'm puffing gray at idle. I'll upgrade from the college-budget-discount-rebuilt pieces in favor of brand new units from Stanadyne.

David
 
Wednesday is usually errand day - picking up materials, dropping off finished work, etc. I picked up my weekend plans:
IMG_0152.JPG

The zero-tow alignment feels good on the highway and over my standard broken pavement test route. I may still make some adjustments.

David
 
Last edited:
sreidmx said:
... so how does one know that an injector is bad?
Click to expand...
Just realized you asked about an individual injector rather than injectors.

Two methods I know of:
  • Take it to your local diesel injection shop and have them spray tested.
    • 6.2/6.5 injectors are pretty cheap compared to late mode DI engines, and the price of testing is close to the price of a brand new injector from Stanadyne, so I just purchased a set of 8. Not a big market for rebuilds these days.
  • If you're smoking at idle, you can crack injector lines one by one until the engine develops a miss, and see of the smoke condition clears at any time. That can diagnose individual low performing nozzles.
If you're replacing a set of the older long style 6.2 injectors, take the opportunity to upgrade to the shorter body 6.5 turbo injectors, being mindful of whether your heads are threaded for coarse or fine body injectors. Everything 6.5 is fine threaded, as is all but the first couple of years of 6.2s.

Makes sense to change lines, too, since it's relatively inexpensive and you'd have to bend a set of 6.2 lines to mate up to the shorter 6.5 injectors.

Should have paid closer attention to your question.

David
 
Injectors are in, and it's running nicely. I still need to road test, and check for weeping at the injector lines.

There are good and detail procedures out there for how to change injectors, and I will just share a couple of tips from my experience.

I always use my Snap-On injector socket. I'm sure Matco and Cornwell have versions, but this is key to safe removal and getting an accurate torque on install. IMG_0233.JPG

Keep your tools and yourself very clean during install. I clean out the inside of the socket before each new injector goes in, and use a shop wipes on my hands at regular intervals. Keep the grit away of the nozzle, because it may never come out.
IMG_0234.JPG

A recent lesson, try to always use a matched set of injectors. Pictured here are my college budget rebuilds - 6 German Bosch pieces and 2 French no-names.
IMG_0236.JPG

Use plenty of anti-seize. It made removal pretty easy, but also lubricates the threads to ensure you get an accurate torque, which the book specifies as 44-60 lb-ft. I split the difference at 52.
IMG_0237.JPG

Lastly - I take my time. I removed all 8 last night to set the table for reinstall today.
IMG_0223.JPG

David
 
AgDieseler said:
Injectors are in, and it's running nicely. I still need to road test, and check for weeping at the injector lines.

There are good and detail procedures out there for how to change injectors, and I will just share a couple of tips from my experience.

I always use my Snap-On injector socket. I'm sure Matco and Cornwell have versions, but this is key to safe removal and getting an accurate torque on install. View attachment 231558

Keep your tools and yourself very clean during install. I clean out the inside of the socket before each new injector goes in, and use a shop wipes on my hands at regular intervals. Keep the grit away of the nozzle, because it may never come out.
View attachment 231559

A recent lesson, try to always use a matched set of injectors. Pictured here are my college budget rebuilds - 6 German Bosch pieces and 2 French no-names.
View attachment 231560

Use plenty of anti-seize. It made removal pretty easy, but also lubricates the threads to ensure you get an accurate torque, which the book specifies as 44-60 lb-ft. I split the difference at 52.
View attachment 231561

Lastly - I take my time. I removed all 8 last night to set the table for reinstall today.
View attachment 231557

David
Click to expand...

What is magic about the injector socket?
 
campfire said:
What is magic about the injector socket?
Click to expand...
It has a relief in the cap for the return nozzles, and you can turn it with a 1/2" drive or a 7/8" wrench. I'm not always in favor of using the J series tools from the manual, but this one has been worth it.

And it is magical.

David
 
AgDieseler said:
It has a relief in the cap for the return nozzles, and you can turn it with a 1/2" drive or a 7/8" wrench. I'm not always in favor of using the J series tools from the manual, but this one has been worth it.

And it is magical.

David
Click to expand...

Magical, eh?

I'll keep that in mind next time I'm redoing injectors. Hopefully it won't be too much longer.
 
Ok that is an excellent explanation and I'll likeley do mine when the engine is out. I'll have to make a video and get your 2cents (if ya are ok with that) I want to make sure I'm not seeing something I shouldn't be concerned with.
 
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