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One Piece at a Time: My 1985 Diesel Suburban

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AgDieseler said:
Nope. I’ve had a worn out o-ring on the bleeder screw, but the base itself hasn’t leaked. I have an eye on an upgraded dual filter setup, but that’s for later.

David
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I've heard stories of leaks, but haven't had a problem with mine (on the Blazer). I swapped out the burb to an FM100 slide-on filter, which also has caused no problems. I did decide that I may as well mount up my other FM100 filter setup while I have the Blazer torn apart. Having 15 spare filters lying around might be playing into that decision. ;)

I wound up with 3 of the '82-'83 secondary fuel filter setups if you are looking to add extra filtration... :whistle:

Probably going to scrap the box filter housing. Purge the junk.
 
Bit of morning and midday work, because it’s hot and the wife and I are going out tonight.

Harry, supervising.
C7177203-4BA9-4289-96C6-104AE54DC8FA.jpeg

New 4” stainless intake elbow with a -12 bung for the CDR hookup. The tab fixes the elbow to the airbox wall.

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For simplicity, I mounted the air-oil separator to the firewall. The CDR steps down from 1” to -12. I just super glued one hose inside the other and used some 4:1 heat shrink to seal it all. If that doesn’t work, I’ll weld a -12 bung to the CDR, but I’d rather not.

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I’m interested to see how much oil the separator captures. Hopefully it keeps the intercooler nice and clean. The turbo huffs a serious amount of oil vapor, and the factory baffle in the valve cover is less than effective.

The first batch of slider steel is supposed to arrive today.

David
 
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I’m not a doctor, but that looks like slider material.

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Got a pretty nice little weekend planned. Got some 6x2x.188 and 1.75x.120 HREW, probably change the oil, maybe run up to NAPA and get some front bearing seals, maybe bed bath and beyond. I don’t know. I don’t know if we’ll have enough time.

David
 
AgDieseler said:
Bit of morning and midday work, because it’s hot and the wife and I are going out tonight.

Harry, supervising.
View attachment 275335

New 4” stainless intake elbow with a -12 bung for the CDR hookup. The tab fixes the elbow to the airbox wall.

View attachment 275336

For simplicity, I mounted the air-oil separator to the firewall. The CDR steps down from 1” to -12. I just super glued one hose inside the other and used some 4:1 heat shrink to seal it all. If that doesn’t work, I’ll weld a -12 bung to the CDR, but I’d rather not.

View attachment 275337

I’m interested to see how much oil the separator captures. Hopefully it keeps the intercooler nice and clean. The turbo huffs a serious amount of oil vapor, and the factory baffle in the valve cover is less than effective.

The first batch of slider steel is supposed to arrive today.

David
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David, why don't you chuck the valve cover CDR setup and switch back to the old stock 6.2 CDR setup, connected to the oil fill? It shouldn't be picking up large amounts of oil.


I've seen lots of oily 6.5 intakes but I don't think I've yet seen an oily 6.2 intake. I don't think that's a coincidence.
 
campfire said:
I've seen lots of oily 6.5 intakes but I don't think I've yet seen an oily 6.2 intake. I don't think that's a coincidence.
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It’s not picking up oil, but rather oil vapor.

The old style CDR made my intake(s) just as oily, which doesn’t much matter for non-intercooled setups. I’m really only concerned with oil vapor pooling in the intercooler.

I do agree 6.5s tend to be oilier, but I suspect that’s just because the compressor provides a lot more vacuum for the CDR than just the intake alone.

David
 
AgDieseler said:
The old style CDR made my intake(s) just as oily, which doesn’t much matter for non-intercooled setups. I’m really only concerned with oil vapor pooling in the intercooler.

I do agree 6.5s tend to be oilier, but I suspect that’s just because the compressor provides a lot more vacuum for the CDR than just the intake alone.

David
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I can't say yet whether you're right, but I'll be taking notes as I put miles on the burb.
 
campfire said:
Isn't one purpose of the CDR canister to separate these streams? I thought that's why the input is oilier than the output.
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I really don’t think so.

The CDR canister is just a valve that maintains a certain level of vacuum to offset/overcome crankcase pressure. That the output has oil in it at all just shows that the system wasn’t designed to remove the droplets of oil from the crankcase atmosphere, which is very common in factory ventilation setups.

Most modern engines maintain a negative ventilation pressure, and need “catch cans” or separators to get oil out of the intake tract. It’s a big deal on supercharged LS engines, and just about any 4-banger with a turbo.

To me, this is another system that needed refining, and I can’t help but fiddle with it.

David
 
For reference, jockeying axles and springs feels different in my mid-30s than when I was in college.

Front end work is underway - new bushings, new center pins, rehab degraded sliders, and swapped springs side-to-side. Tomorrow, new draglink TREs and I’ll finally flip the tie rod so the hydro assist stops backing off the adjuster jam nut.

Then, 32 holes for slider mounts.

David
 
AgDieseler said:
Inspired by @Shawn, and never again wanting to experience the late night drive across the Texas border with only my Sylvania halogens to light the path, I picked up a set of the Osram LEDs.

View attachment 263353

Cheap pigtail adapter, which is handy because the ground wire is opposite from the factory. I’ll run a sleeve of 3:1 heat shrink over this later.

View attachment 263354

View attachment 263352

View attachment 263351

All the lumens.

David
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So...how have you liked those new headlights?

I have at least one halogen that just isn't doing much anymore. Time for more lumens. :popcorn:
 
campfire said:
So...how have you liked those new headlights?
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They’ve been working just fine. Get some, but build your own wiring adapter harness. The only they offer is cheap and poorly assembled.

Weekend work is done. Didn’t quite make my goal, but solid forward progress on the front end:
  • New bushings - main eyes and pivot
  • Replaced dead slider pads
  • New center pins
  • Swapped springs side to side
  • New TREs in the drag link
  • Flipped the tie rod
  • Tape measure alignment
I’m curious is anyone else gets the occasional “lazy leaf spring.” My front driver would sag a bit, but level out after being put under a load - pulling a trailer or anything else that extended the spring. I know there is residual friction in a pack with a lot of leaves, and both springs had the same amount of free arch when unloaded on the floor. I’ve susccessfully swapped springs side to side to even out the static stance of the truck.

David
 
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Happens to me all the time when I'm driving. I always figured it was my 280lbs ass, but now I know it's not me at all. It must the spring..... Just like the washing machine keeps shrinking my clothes. :whistle: :haha:
 
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