CK5
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One Piece at a Time: My 1985 Diesel Suburban
- Thread starter AgDieseler
- Start date
It's been a minute but do the HE351's have a better shaft than the HX40's? I remember those having a bad habit of grenading themselves much over 20-25psi.
That’s a terrifying problem. This combo is good for up to 45ish psi, and I’ll make use of up to 25-30 of that. I haven’t heard of folks blowing up their 351s, which is kind of an upgraded HX40 anyway.
It would be good if the upgrades included the shaft.
David
I remember the hx40’s being like glass. To big of a wheel on to small of a shaft. Had to many friends blow them up. That’s why I was asking if the he351 has a better shaft in it. I know stock 351’s are solid (you should see what we did to hx//hy35’s). I started getting out of the game when the 351’s were just taking off so I’m not as hip on them. I miss diesels.
Go big. If anybody can do it, he is the one. Though I'd like to be around if somebody pushed that kind of boost to a stock 6.5 just so I can see the carnage when it remodels the block with some new windows.30PSI on a 6.5?
Interesting.
Those M12 head studs need to earn their keep.
Roger, and in stages. The pump is at 250hp/500lb-ft right now, and the wastegae pops dead on at 12 just as the turbo is getting into the meaty part of its efficiency bubble. I’ll see what this fuel level supports and needs, and go up from there. Right now, there is absolutely zero black smoke.
David
That’s awesome you got it dialed in with no smoke. It’s amazing how many don’t do that. I wonder how much power they leave on the table and money wasted at fuel prices north of 5 bucks a gallon right now.
Preach. It’s hard not to wonder the same when black smoke is $5 a gallon.
Never mind for a minute that it’s wasteful and dumb, but all that lack of tuning definitely sacrifices a metric crap ton of thermal efficiency, and that means power. Light gray haze, a puff of brown as the turbo spools - all normal under heavy loads - but the thick black cloud crowd is probably giving up at least 10-15% fuel efficiency (indirect measurement of thermal efficiency) just because their fuel and timing curves don’t match up with their turbo for a broad range of uses. As well, the area under the torque curve - the most useful measure for a trucks ability to actually move stuff - gets peaky, which further hurts a range of efficiencies.
But, they think it looks cool. It’s a real “the bro-dozer has no clothes” moment for sure. These are the same yo-yos that pass me doing 80+ on TX287, but are filling up every 200 miles or so, and I will pass them while they’re stopped with the green pump in their hand.
David
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Turbo is on, and working nicely. A few updates:
Just a simple gasket match in the inlet side.
Also, milled a little pocket for tooling during install/uninstall.
HX40 10 blade vs HE351 12 blade.
The small 12 blade is exceptionally responsive around town. Boost comes up right off idle and soars with moderate throttle. It’s also extremely restrictive cruising down the highway. EGTs climb past 750 with a quickness, and there’s a good bit of load put on the cooling system.
The bigger 10 blade is still very responsive, though it really comes in during mid range throttle. Past 1/3 throttle, 1500 rpm, and cruising over 40, it’s tough to tell a difference except for the 200* lower EGT. I’ll run this for the next adventure, and see what I think. It’s definitely a better match for the big injection pump.
Also, I have a tach signal again. The Hall effect sensor on the oil drive didn’t work out, so I pulled it from the alternator.
On to the next part of the checklist.
David
Just a simple gasket match in the inlet side.
Also, milled a little pocket for tooling during install/uninstall.
HX40 10 blade vs HE351 12 blade.
The small 12 blade is exceptionally responsive around town. Boost comes up right off idle and soars with moderate throttle. It’s also extremely restrictive cruising down the highway. EGTs climb past 750 with a quickness, and there’s a good bit of load put on the cooling system.
The bigger 10 blade is still very responsive, though it really comes in during mid range throttle. Past 1/3 throttle, 1500 rpm, and cruising over 40, it’s tough to tell a difference except for the 200* lower EGT. I’ll run this for the next adventure, and see what I think. It’s definitely a better match for the big injection pump.
Also, I have a tach signal again. The Hall effect sensor on the oil drive didn’t work out, so I pulled it from the alternator.
On to the next part of the checklist.
David
Looking great! Saw the shot of the gauges on IG, but don't remember you documenting the upgrade.
Who's gauge setup did you end up with?
Love the Square Body Syndicate gauges, but don't really like some sponsored logo on my products.
Who's gauge setup did you end up with?
Love the Square Body Syndicate gauges, but don't really like some sponsored logo on my products.
It's Dakota Digital, and the install is cataloged back here. I got them to adjust the tach down to 4K, but otherwise it's the standard early style VHX setup.
David
Heal yeah!! Those plungers are huge! Where is the video of the burning rubber?
I’m really curious to see what it does. It’ll bark the 40s at 3/4 throttle, and that’s still at the 250hp tune. 1/8 or a 1/4 turn of the fuel screw could make it interesting.
David
I’m going full tacticool and making new barn door inner skins with MOLLE panels.
Figured it’ll be a good spot to store first aid, straps, and other odds and ends that usually find their way into rolling around the back of the truck.
My factory trim panels pretty much disintegrated, pressing me to come up with something else.
David
Figured it’ll be a good spot to store first aid, straps, and other odds and ends that usually find their way into rolling around the back of the truck.
My factory trim panels pretty much disintegrated, pressing me to come up with something else.
David
I've thought about using those in some places too. Seems like they could be handy to have.
Mmmmm tire barks, my Greg trans does the same! On concrete it’s wild and I can feel the tires shake.
