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Project 82 TCBF -10.13.9 - progress!!!

Got a few deliveries today
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Alright guys, there here. Nothing too special, but will definitely allow for some good progress once the frame is done.

First package, from Monster Transmission, HD Low Stall Torque Converter:

brenda343.jpg


Second package, from our very own k30bb468, rad support mounts to replace my rotted one :eek1::

brenda342.jpg


And last, but not least, the third package, complimentary, from our very own ryoken, new motor and tranny mounts!:

brenda340.jpg
 
frames going out for blasting this weekend, and the parts keep on rolling in!
 
where you taking it?
Place called Prep Rite in Tewksbury. I`m going to be dropping it off and picking it up when the place is closed, since its the best time for my buddy to be able to use his trailer. I`m going to see if they can prime it too, if it isn`t too much more, just incase it happens to rain.
 
is hat black car a susuki areo?


anyways here is my favorit toyota bed, I saved this a long time ago

flatbed_01.jpg

Do you remember where he's from? I saw a 'yota at the hardware store last week that looks exactly the same... down to the cab, tube work and tires...
 
I HIGHLY recomend having in epoxy primed and possibly even painted there. I had my D60 epoxy primed and sure enough it rained while I was bringing it home (you gotta love that North East weather). Well if you want paint to stick to that epoxy primer you'll have to scuff the surface REAL good to get paint to stick. My paint always peels off the expoxy primer and I wish I had them paint it while the expoxy primer was still tacky.
 
I HIGHLY recomend having in epoxy primed and possibly even painted there. I had my D60 epoxy primed and sure enough it rained while I was bringing it home (you gotta love that North East weather). Well if you want paint to stick to that epoxy primer you'll have to scuff the surface REAL good to get paint to stick. My paint always peels off the expoxy primer and I wish I had them paint it while the expoxy primer was still tacky.
Yeah, I`m assuming thats what they use. I`m giving him a call Monday to see what it will run for priming. If it looks clear, I may say forget it, and just por15 it like i planned. If it does get primed, it will be top coated with POR15 Chassis Coat.
 
Not to sound like a jerk, but if you have it epoxy primed you wont need Por15 over it. Nothing is gonna get through a quality epoxy primer. Besides Por15 will fade. However if you're not gonna have it epoxy primered por15 with a top coat is the way to go.

Sorry im half drunk...
 
Yeah, I`m assuming thats what they use. I`m giving him a call Monday to see what it will run for priming. If it looks clear, I may say forget it, and just por15 it like i planned. If it does get primed, it will be top coated with POR15 Chassis Coat.

Ben,

Double check the application of those POR-15 products.... I'm not sure POR15 is designed for flawless, rust-free metal. It actually needs rust to create the chemical reaction. That may not be true with Chassis Coat.

Just do yourself a favor and check again...it's a lot of extra work (and expense) for potentially no benefit. Save that money for beer.

:wink1:



:usaflag:
 
Ben,

Double check the application of those POR-15 products.... I'm not sure POR15 is designed for flawless, rust-free metal. It actually needs rust to create the chemical reaction. That may not be true with Chassis Coat.

Just do yourself a favor and check again...it's a lot of extra work (and expense) for potentially no benefit. Save that money for beer.

:wink1:



:usaflag:
Your right Greg, at least on the actual POR15 paint. Although, it seems like if you use the Metal Ready, it would work or nearly anything. After talking with Paul (ryoken), we realized it probably wasn`t the best option, but it would work. Since I`m getting it blasted, I`m more than likely going to have it epoxy primed, which in turn, would cancel out the effects of the POR15.

The Chassis Coat, on the other hand, would be usable. :wink1:
 
That pic is right off the all-pro offroad website

Well we're in luck... I went back to the hardware store this afternoon for a sprinkler project I was working on and to my amazement he was there (must work there)... so anyways they're crappy cell phone pics but at least it's something.
It's not quite the same rig but it's similar...

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Your right Greg, at least on the actual POR15 paint. Although, it seems like if you use the Metal Ready, it would work or nearly anything. After talking with Paul (ryoken), we realized it probably wasn`t the best option, but it would work. Since I`m getting it blasted, I`m more than likely going to have it epoxy primed, which in turn, would cancel out the effects of the POR15.

The Chassis Coat, on the other hand, would be usable. :wink1:

Whats this french your speaking? WE? :p:

I KNOW the right ways to do it, it's just beating it into your head! :haha::woot::pimp1::haha:



you have 2 avenues at this point...

1 - zinc, epoxy, topcoat ( you can just epoxy prime, or even urethane prime and skip the zinc, but it's cheap insurance imo...)

2 -metal ready, por15, topcoat...

simple... no others combo's of the 2... 1 or the other...

obviously, I cringe somewhat at #2 and highly recommend #1... I know that may bother some here, but again, if your going thru the trouble of blasting, putting anything other than zinc on seems silly to me...
 
Thanks Paul :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :p:

The reason i suggested having him prime it, is I`m going to picking the frame back up when they`re closed, so it will obviously be outside. I`d hate to have it rain in the mean time :eek1:

If epoxy primed, what would/should I use for a top coat? Rattle can? Brush it on?
 
it is always best to have it primed asap.. but hey, watch the weather channel..

usually I like to grab a sander, DA, etc and run over the big flats to knock down the grain a tad, depending on what grit abrasive is used... just to put a clean "cut" for the primer to grab... but it isn't critical..
 
usually I like to grab a sander, DA, etc and run over the big flats to knock down the grain a tad, depending on what grit abrasive is used... just to put a clean "cut" for the primer to grab... but it isn't critical..
Maybe thats what the guy meant by he wasn`t sure what it would cost to prime it, until he could see how bad/pitted the frame was?

Weather Channel shows T Storms on Sunday :doah:
 
that just sounds like a "cover your tail" kinda line.. just bring it home and zinc the he!! out of it...

but yup, the courser and more pitting, the more material ya need to smooth it out... if ya care, doubtful the blaster will care how smooth it is..

some guys are content with just having clean steel properly coated... sometimes ya wanna put the extra effort in to smooth it...


buy a $30 gun, a gallon kit and squirt it yoself...
 
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