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Project "RESPAWN" - 1972 K5 Blazer

Cool stuff here!
There was some rust in the footwell area and cab support right above where the torsion box was rusted.
 
That's it for now, have to remove the passenger door so he can get to the lower edge of the door with his welder.
 
Some solid sheet metal work there! You were lucky to find a guy, most body guys hate rust repair work and do whatever they can to avoid doing it...
 
Pulled the passenger side door off, from what I could see between the fender and the B pillar with a flashlight it appears to be rust free back there. Obviously can't see everything with the fender and cowl still on but looks good so far.
I have read several places that I need to remove the fenders in order to remove the door hinges from the body but a quick look over looks like I should be able to remove hinges with the fender still on, am I missing something?
 
Not missing anything, but it's harder to get a wrench in there than you might think. Also, those guides are probably presuming that you still had the door on the hinge, which would make it impossible.
 
Getting them off was easy enough. Putting them back on without cross threading is the challenge!

Offset box end wrench made it easier to get off as well.
 
Getting them off was easy enough. Putting them back on without cross threading is the challenge!

Offset box end wrench made it easier to get off as well.
I did get them off without removing the fender but can tell it will be a bitch to get them back on especially the upper ones.
 
Okay, so got the rebuilt hinges installed and put the passenger door back on.... I can tell you it brought the suck! Did it with the fenders still on, only had to remove and install the door six times to get everything to line up. :doah:
 
If you still have all your knuckles, six times is damn good. To get to those inner bolts you need flat fingers with like eight joints.

-- A
 
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If you still have all your knuckles, six times is damn good. To get to those inner bolts you need flat fingers with like eight joints.

-- A
The secret seems to be to start the lower single bolt first as that helps position the plate behind the A pillar (plate with all 3 threaded holes in it) and then slide the inner most top bolt in the hole of the hinge. From that point its just using the inner finger from each hand, one on the top and one on the bottom of the bolt to turn it an 1/8th of a turn at a time until it starts to catch the threads. I will take some pics when I do the drivers side.
 
I am going to politely say that you missed an opportunity! When I went to do that on my '72 C10, the job started as just pulling the front clip, and then snowballed until other went down to the frame!!
You could have gone with the M.A.W!!
 
I guess now it's too late to mention a trash can and 2x4 holdup a lifted trucks door nicely
 

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