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Pzuzu The Isuzu Build (RIP)

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Looks good as always.

Sorry about news with mom, and never make excuses. You build, your pace, sh!t happens.
 
Finally made some real progress today. Got the rear caliper brackets done and on the housing painted. Put the axles in FINALLY :bow:. Time to get the frame rolling this weekend and get to do some working on the motor and the engine to trans adapter ordered.

Also came to the realization I'm going to wind up running a fuel cell. The blazer tank wont work with the rear body mounts.


Retainers I whipped up for easy install with full circle pressure on bearing/seal.





Got the brackets on the housing, axles in, calipers on.









ALL DONE except drilling and tapping a breather since my truss covered it.

 
glad to see some progress on this thing. still one of my favorite builds. :)
 
Brought the motor to the garage at the house to make it easier to work on. Just ordered $200 in motor parts I need. New timing chain, lower oil pan, timing tensioner, and lower half gasket kit. Motor has 180k on it and 150-200k is the preventative maintenance period for the chain. Plus they say when they get loose the motors lose alot of pep from the IP being out of correct time.

Monday Im going to box up and ship out my flywheel to 4x4 labs to have the new one balance matched. The adapter kit is going on the good ol credit card :whistle: Timing to get to making progress...

I still need to find another tcase and order up a doubler kit from trail gear. O yeah did I mention Ive decided to stick a doubler in the thing while Im doing all this work anyway :thumb:
 
Been plugging away at my motor. My adapter kit should be here this week. 4x4labs was awesome to deal with. I picked up another lower miles trans and transfercase for $200 and the guy threw in driveshafts from a toy pickup for $45. Now I have both my transfer cases for my dual setup so my next purchase will be my dual adapter plate.

I ordered a new timing chain and tensioner for my motor. Both the damn things were wrong... Im waiting til pay day to order and new chain and tensioner now because I have to get the more expensive chain. Ive been cleaning the crap out of the oil pan with all its damn grooves and cavities because I decided to reseal the motor. I already changed the rear main seal that had my pulling the crank out of the block an inch :doah: What a pain in the ass. I got that fancy Polished intake manifold going today and ordered the adapter to convert my turbo oil drain from a ****ty grommet gasket that leaks all the time to a pipe thread adapter and -12 SS braided line.

Im on the fence about what color to paint the motor. I dont want to shoot it black because I want to be able to see any leak issues in the future. Theres lots of natural aluminum on the thing. I was thinking that Cummins/Deere khaki tan but Im not so sure. One thing I know is I'll be doing black AN fittings. No red and blue junk.
 
Ive gotten some work in recently. Biggest thing other than changing the RMS and resealing the lower oil pan was painting the motor. What a pain to degrease and prep... I really didnt want to pull the IP to paint it but it came out great regardless. I was really on the fence between the classic cummins/deere tan. Then I figured Id go black because the tan wouldnt look good with bare aluminum IMO. But I changed my mind at the last second... To GM Corporate blue lol.





I also solved another huge issue with these motors which involves the oil return line from the turbo becoming a constant leak issue. A giant AN fitting and some braided stainless line will fix that right up!

 
Got more parts on order and more motor work done. I ripped the rack limiter out of the injection pump which basically sets the pump to go full fuel through the curve :D. Also removed the ALDA which is an anti off idle smoke emission control. Allows fuel to come in faster and the turbo to spool quick. I ordered all sorts of odds and ends: new water pump, valve cover gasket, thermostat, glow plugs, oil and fuel filters too.

Ive cleaned up a lot of parts too. I just ordered a new more modern snail for this thing :pimp: Ive been working a prevailing union wage job at work so Im gonna have some extra dough to splurge on some stuff I was going to have to hold off for. Ordered a NOS HX25, adjustable external waste gate, and a t3 to t3 w/ 38mm blowoff valve adapter plate. It wont make anymore power than the stocker but it will spool faster, run cooler, and with a better curve. Im researching electronic boost controllers but Im kinda on the fence as to whether I want to add blingy electronic stuff when the whole point of this motor was to be mechanical.

My engine adapter kit finally shipped and should be here by the end of the week. Figure I'll have her started on the stand not long after that!
 
Got some parts in. The HX25 came in. Brand new not a knock off or rebuild just as promised for $300. Also got my knockoff Tial external waste gate and my t3 to t3 w/ wastegate port adapter.

I started eyeing up how things would fit on the motor and found a few issues. Im going to have to clock my turbo, which isnt a huge deal but because it was made for a specific factory application (4bt) Im going to have to cut the clocking pins off of it.

I also got some bad information doing some research as the hx25 was not a t3 flange turbo and is actually a t25/t28 size so I need to get a reducer for it. Im kind of getting nervous about how wide the motor is getting with the new turbo setup on it but I dont think its going to be an issue.





 
Still making progress on motor assembly and turbo fitting.

My t3 to t28 adapter came in today. Nice machined piece, unlike that junky t3 to t3 waste gate spacer. Which I decided Im not going to use btw.



I also got my adapter kit on. I ditched the mercedes torque to yield bolts and went with ARPs. Behold 12 chromoly ford pinto bolts fastening my toyota flywheel to my mercedes engine lol.



Some adapter shots. Really nice piece from Luke over at 4x4labs.com





And just some overall shots of where the engine is up to now.





Ive been spending money hand over fist lately lol. The ARP bolts were $65 alone, just for 12 bolts. I still need to buy new injector nozzles to rebuild my injectors. And now I need to buy aluminum torch rods and flux and ni rod to weld my adapter and wastegate port onto my exhaust manifold.
 
This will be the prettiest $900 dollar Isuzu/Mercedes/Toyota/Ford on the whole site.:haha::haha:

Will you at least put a bowtie on the grill to kinda round it all out?:rolleyes:

Still awsome work man. Can't wait to see this thing flex out.
 
Was away in PA at a race most of this weekend. Came home Saturday night at 10pm to find my apartment more or less flooded from the big rain storm that broke off that tropical storm...

I did take a couple hours today and get my turbo clock and plotted out as to where I want things to end up.





Plumbing will be super easy with or without an intercooler. Its also much smaller than the factory setup length wise. I also planned out a nice, easy to access but not in the way spot for my EGT sensor.



The plan is to weld the t3 to t28 adapter to the manifold. Ive got cast iron welding rod coming in the mail. Maybe I'll give a little review on it. Its suppose to flex more than using plain nickel rod. Its from a website called Muggy Weld. I also bought some aluminum cold weld which you use with a torch. Suppose to be half way between soldier and a weld.
 
Stomis said:
I also bought some aluminum cold weld which you use with a torch. Suppose to be half way between soldier and a weld.
Click to expand...

I used some stuff like that to solder/braze/weld some brass tube into aluminum angle. Worked very nicely, save that my MAPP torch mighta been a bit hot for it and I blew right through the brass a coupla times :doah: As you say, as much solder as weld, so treat accordingly.

-- A
 
Buttoned up my manifold mods and got the exhaust manifold, waste gate, and turbo on for good. Ive got some CAD files into Kurt to cut out for my for a downpipe and oil drain flange. Brushed up on my stick welding. Going to have to spend more time doing that. Stuff didnt come out too bad but man was it a pain welding a threaded bung in with 1/8in rod...





Also bought a new starter and got it mounted up to see what my downpipe clearance will be like. I really dont think it will be an issue if I run a 90 straight off and go under the starter. But I'll find that out when the motor is in the chassis.
 
dremu said:
I used some stuff like that to solder/braze/weld some brass tube into aluminum angle. Worked very nicely, save that my MAPP torch mighta been a bit hot for it and I blew right through the brass a coupla times :doah: As you say, as much solder as weld, so treat accordingly.

-- A
Click to expand...

I really wasnt a fan of that stuff I bought btw. I think it may have been more because I bought the high heat stuff and should have bought low heat. I just need to buy an AC tig welder is really what I need to do... :whistle:
 
KirsL said:
I happen to have a very nice TIG welder. I can do some welding for you for a small fee :whistle:.
Click to expand...

Eh I already botched what I was making with the **** torch rod/flux stuff I bought so Im just gonna epoxy and paint the thing so you cant see the FUBAR. Its just a cover for where the vacuum pump was anyway.
 
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