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ReTonkulous

Utlilmaster P30
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Thank you. That is what I have been looking for.

I am going to run a switch on the shifter for the TCC. It will also be fed through a switch on the brake pedal. If the brake is pushed, it unlocks. Just in case my old brain forgets. Will also have a switch on the base of the shifter that it will only lock up in OD. Basically 2 safeties to keep me from shifting with it locked or while stopped.
 
folkenheath said:
I created a pdf of what to do to wire it for full manual.

Perhaps I will put this in a new thread somewhere so its easier for people to find. I might also link it on my website.

I had sent Dave a way to wire it to shift with push buttons(or rocker switches) years ago, he is seeing if he still has it, I can't find it. If people are interested I can recreate that too if we can't find it. With that way, you would put it in drive, and then shift with buttons electronically. You would leave all switches off for reverse.

With a double pole double throw switch added, you could have both manual shifting with the shifter and push button shifting with the buttons.
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We should do that and see about having @CK5 move it as a Resource and get you an author tag
 
No problem, if I remember correctly the TCC clutch can't apply in 1st gear. So if you switch it to 1st gear its not possibly to stay locked up. But I do remember a few times, as I usually would just go down to 2nd, that I would forget and you would feel the engine start to buck and surge approaching a stop and quickly flip the switch to unlock it.

And yes, that would be good with me if you want to use it as a resource, kind of neat really. Thank you.
 
ktmoutfront said:
Thank you. That is what I have been looking for.

I am going to run a switch on the shifter for the TCC. It will also be fed through a switch on the brake pedal. If the brake is pushed, it unlocks. Just in case my old brain forgets. Will also have a switch on the base of the shifter that it will only lock up in OD. Basically 2 safeties to keep me from shifting with it locked or while stopped.
Click to expand...
I ran the TCC on a switch with my 700r4. The brake switch idea is a good one. I would often forget and wonder why the truck seemed to be acting weird as I slowed down for a stop.

You may find that you want to use the TCC more than just in OD though. Thing I liked most about having the manual switch was being able to engage in other gears. Driving in the mountains, I would lock the converter in 3rd gear frequently, sometimes 2nd gear even. It helped with pulling grades and keeping trans temps down. With a truck like the Duckling it might even come in handy if you have to run in 3rd gear due to a strong head wind.
 
I think the brake switch makes sense as it may prevent the occasional almost stalling before you remember. That's actually an optional input with the Holley transmission harness, so it knows when you press the brake. If your brake switch doesn't have a normally closed pole, you could just use a NC relay.

As for shifting it while locked, it likely won't hurt anything, it will just make the shift feel firmer. And, as Scott stated, you may want to leave the TCC locked in 3rd sometimes as the RPM will be lower than 3rd unlocked but not as low as 4th. It's like having another gear option in a way. The trans will stay significantly cooler with the converter locked, as most of the heat comes from the slipping converter.

You can even lock it in 2nd, although unlikely necessary. It won't lock in 1st anyway, factory hydraulics won't allow it.
 
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Gonna show my ignorance here but I remember when I was hot rodding diesels, locked shifts had a habit of snapping shafts. But we were also running 1000ftlbs or more through these transmissions. Is that not an issue in the gas world? I loved locking the converter because then it was just direct drive like a clutch and there was no slipping happening but it was easy to burn up a converter if you brought the power in to low in the RPM and the pump didn't have the pressure ramped up.
 
Experience with something is not ignorance... ;)

Its an issue if you are running a lot of power or torque, regardless of fuel. I put hardened 4340 input and intermediate shafts in my 4L80E so it could take the abuse of the big block on nitrous.

But if you are less than 700 lb-ft it won't really matter with a 4L80E.

It is true that torque down low is harder on axles and drivetrain parts than HP in the higher RPM. That is why decent big blocks, and turned up diesels, are so hard on parts.
 
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A locked converter can also help as an engine brake when slowing down.
 
You guys are funny. You act like this thing has HP. 454 with peanut port heads and probably 7.5:1 compression. Stock smog manufolds with the air ports plugged. If it has 300hp or 300fp of torque, I would faint. And the cam. Lift: .545 / .553, Duration @ .050: 227 / 235, Centerline: 103, Rattler, Choppy idle
 
Got everything right but the LCA. That thing is a paperweight
 
Sometimes those choppy "rattler" and "thumpr" cams have a tight LSA at 108 or 109 and then they advance the cam a little more at 6 degrees to get some bottom end back and you quickly end up with a 103 ICA. Not that out of the question if you want the choppy idle. With the correct combination they can perform decent, its just not for everyone with the idle and vacuum it produces.

You change the heads or pistons to raise compression and put some headers on that it may do better than you think.
 
Are those exhaust cutouts? If so, I've always thought it would be fun to do that on the crew cab.
 
What brand are those? My distributors have some cutouts in stock, but not all of course.

I'm always worried they will leak on me. So I typically just make the exhaust as high flow as it needs to be through the mufflers.

But I think they have most likely gotten a lot better over the years.
 
Spelab or something like that. A friend bought them and ordered the wrong size for his car. So I got these cheap. China brand.
 
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