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RJFguitar's resto-mod - went offroad

Overview Gallery Discussion
That is what I did on the front so I didn't have to drill new holes and take the fender off to get to the back side. I just know those are metal and heavier.
I'm thjinking I may need those on there but just don't know if I want the body side molding back on.
 
Originally, I was going to install just the side moldings and shave the emblems, like a lot of guys do on the newer trucks, but alas I decided I wanted it to look like a real Silverado like it did from the factory.
 
Got the doors back on. The help fell through, but I managed.


New problem. Even after changing the pins and bushings, I still have saggy doors. Do the hinges that bolt on behind the fender have adjustment to them? I presume so since the hinges that bolt to the doors allow for in and out adjustment.

Oh.... and I did some christmas shopping for myself. I was tired of stringing in the air hose from my service truck that is parked outside.:whistle::thumb:

What would be the proper way to align the doors on these trucks?

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are the doors tight? if you open it up a foot, and lift up and down from the corner, is it tight?

yes, there are horizontal adjustments to the upper and lower hinge... one bolt on the top hinge comes from the cab inside (it's the one nearest the door)

BE AWARE.... messing with those adjustments can wreak havoc... first, with the fenders on they can be very difficult to access.... 2, those "moves" to the door are much more difficult to correct than any adjustment to the 6 bolts on the door side of the hinges..

but yes, to answer your question, yes it will move the door in the proper direction.. whether that's the top one forward, or bottom one back.. i can't say...
 
ryoken said:
are the doors tight? if you open it up a foot, and lift up and down from the corner, is it tight?

yes, there are horizontal adjustments to the upper and lower hinge... one bolt on the top hinge comes from the cab inside (it's the one nearest the door)

BE AWARE.... messing with those adjustments can wreak havoc... first, with the fenders on they can be very difficult to access.... 2, those "moves" to the door are much more difficult to correct than any adjustment to the 6 bolts on the door side of the hinges..

but yes, to answer your question, yes it will move the door in the proper direction.. whether that's the top one forward, or bottom one back.. i can't say...
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Oh how fun.......:screwy:
I'm going to have to give it a try, I can't leave them sagging.

Oh, yeah, the doors are tight when I do the "wiggle" move. I'm guessing that maybe just years of the pins/bushings being shot and everyone using the door as leverage has possibly pulled the hinge itself into a different position. Has to be, since there isn't much else to factor in.
 
didnt the doors in these trucks fit like **** even when new?

Looking awesome too, I think it will look great with all the trim and everything back on.
 
79rustyk10 said:
didnt the doors in these trucks fit like **** even when new?

Yes they did, but they are fixable. Mine passanger door has always had a gap at the bottom since day one. Still have to do some adjustment to it to fix it.
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Looks great, all i could see the pics till was right after you painted it, then it wouldnt let me look at the rest. Not a member. But sweet
 
hows the 400 running these days?

btw the Bob... i know it's too late now, but if your ever curious has to how you can get a black paint job that looks black most of the time, but every now and then you get a hint of color from the sun, angle, etc... red, blue, gold, green... even white... i can run thru the best process... I did quite a few back in the late 80's...
 
ryoken said:
hows the 400 running these days?

btw the Bob... i know it's too late now, but if your ever curious has to how you can get a black paint job that looks black most of the time, but every now and then you get a hint of color from the sun, angle, etc... red, blue, gold, green... even white... i can run thru the best process... I did quite a few back in the late 80's...
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I wish we could back up 6 months and have that conversation.:thumb: Oh well, I really do like the Copper color though. I've always wanted something this color but never had the guts to buy something with it, plus Dodge never used a copper on their HD trucks.

When my paint peddler said he'd give me Sunset orange for the price of basic black because of the mistake, I was like "ah why not."

The 406 is running fine, especially for 2 year old gas that is still in it. 2 years ago I was in full swing trying to get my crops planted and every tractor was being used. I needed one more...... I fired up the K5 and it pulled a ring roller in the field for about 4 hours. That was the last time it saw fresh gas. Still runs good though.

I'm already itching for an injected big block. I'm thinking a multi port 496 or 502 with a 4L80E eventually, or possibly a blower and a set of big heads for my 406. The only thing about trying to push 400+HP out of my small block is that it's a 2 bolt main. I'm afraid it would blow apart. To do it right I'd have to pull it and put in splayed main caps. Another thing is I've never liked how hard it is to keep a 400 cool.
 
I really like the idea of the big cube FI mill.... not sure how much your axles would like it tho... :haha:

just so it's in print somewhere... :wink1:

late 80's, early 90's we went thru a stint where we did about a 1/2 dozen of the black jobs... there are various methods, but the simplest, most "not f*ckupable" way we found was just a straight black base job with varying percentages of pearl in the clear.. 5% is pretty subtle.. 10% gets more noticable.. did 2 69 Camaro's that way, one red and one gold... they came out pretty sick, especially the gold one..

you can also do it on a straight thru single stage, adding clear and pearl to your mix towards the end.. a much more difficult process.. on the 2 I did that way, I had to reshoot one.. but thats the chance you take doing something outside the box... in the end, they came awesome, little freakier looking than the base ones... but definitely not as easy to "control" the process...
 
ryoken said:
I really like the idea of the big cube FI mill.... not sure how much your axles would like it tho... :haha:

just so it's in print somewhere... :wink1:

late 80's, early 90's we went thru a stint where we did about a 1/2 dozen of the black jobs... there are various methods, but the simplest, most "not f*ckupable" way we found was just a straight black base job with varying percentages of pearl in the clear.. 5% is pretty subtle.. 10% gets more noticable.. did 2 69 Camaro's that way, one red and one gold... they came out pretty sick, especially the gold one..

you can also do it on a straight thru single stage, adding clear and pearl to your mix towards the end.. a much more difficult process.. on the 2 I did that way, I had to reshoot one.. but thats the chance you take doing something outside the box... in the end, they came awesome, little freakier looking than the base ones... but definitely not as easy to "control" the process...
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My 14BFF would obviously have no issues with 500+HP, and I doubt my K5 will ever be put in 4WD again. I don't even plan to drive it in the rain, no joke.

That is the way I did it, black base coat, and then I added a red pearl paste to the clear coat. For what ever reason, the red paste came out purple over the black base. Better quality materials would have likely given better results though.:dunno:
 
the black base coat made the red pearl look purple thats what happens when you paint a red pearl over black base it was no mistake thats soposed to happen when you do that
 
well, the 2 things i would say is I'm not a huge fan of the paste... i always liked the tint style with a binder.. basically just like any other tint in a tint machine, just pearl..

and it definitely looks like the % was WAY high... in order to get that heavy a tone on top of the black, i woulda had to run maybe 20, 25% pearl... that may also have contributed to the purplish look... the ones we did where VERY subtle..... you'd look at it and it'd look black, but every now and then you catch that color tone...

anyway, keep up the clean work, trucks looking great....
 
I'm no pro painter for sure. I'm glad it worked out this way as I like this color the best.
 
The best kind of pearl to use is the powder. It is what most body shops currently use when they have a pearl color to mix.
 
Definitely love that color. Wife's Wrangler is similiar to that color, impact orange. She wanted a wrangler bad for a while and once she saw that color the deal was done!

Teck said:
Thanks, Mine looks good but has 2 small dents in it. I was going to see if my dent guy can fix them.
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Can't believe those ss trim pieces go for that new! I got one on my plow truck that is perfect shape. Have no use for it either on my '84 build as I swapped that to truck gate.
 
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