EFI does everything it can to start and stay running... carbs do the exact opposite.. 
CK5
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RJFguitar's resto-mod - went offroad
- Thread starter rjfguitar
- Start date
I can say it is nice to just jump in and it starts right up no matter how long it been sitting.
The 5.3 runs so much better then the old 383. It is rated at 325hp stock and I have been told with a good tune and the headers/ exhaust I have it should push 375hp or a little more. I am very happy with the choice of an LS motor or rebuilding the old 383. The 5.3 is more then enough for what I will do with this truck, but a 6.0L or 6.2L would just up the cool factor of my build.
The 5.3 runs so much better then the old 383. It is rated at 325hp stock and I have been told with a good tune and the headers/ exhaust I have it should push 375hp or a little more. I am very happy with the choice of an LS motor or rebuilding the old 383. The 5.3 is more then enough for what I will do with this truck, but a 6.0L or 6.2L would just up the cool factor of my build.
The only problem with the cam swap is Pacific wants another $1700 for it. He did say it would take it to 500HP, so maybe that is doing a lot to the valve train or something, again I am on a crash course with these LS motors. I would be nervous with 500HP anyway, I doubt my 700R4 would be very thrilled about that....400 give or take HP shouldn't be a problem.
I'm thinking this 6.0 is the way to go, either stock at 365ish HP or possibly with a cam upgrade. I am also seriously considering going ahead with swapping out my 6" lift for a 2.5" and going with 12" wide rim on a 33x14.50" tire. That would bring me down from a 9" lift to a 5.5", and I could live with 4.10's and 33's, with the current 36's that ratio sucks. These days I prefer the lower and wide look, than the really tall look that I preferred as a kid when I started out with this K5. It's kind of a PITA to get in and out of it anyway.
I'm thinking this 6.0 is the way to go, either stock at 365ish HP or possibly with a cam upgrade. I am also seriously considering going ahead with swapping out my 6" lift for a 2.5" and going with 12" wide rim on a 33x14.50" tire. That would bring me down from a 9" lift to a 5.5", and I could live with 4.10's and 33's, with the current 36's that ratio sucks. These days I prefer the lower and wide look, than the really tall look that I preferred as a kid when I started out with this K5. It's kind of a PITA to get in and out of it anyway.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I like the lowering idea! Do that and a 6.0 would be even funner!
Wow $4k for a turnkey 6.0 
Now that has me thinking... 
Is that rebuilt or a used motor?
Now that has me thinking... Is that rebuilt or a used motor?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Not to keep pushing this guys stuff but i just want you to know your options.
The cam swap we did required pushrod and valve spring changes.
Cool part about the LS series is you actually don't have to remove the lifters for a cam swap. Just remove spring pressure, rotate cam a few times to push the lifters up and pull the cam.
Kevin has done right by me and I will continue to push his service and engines as I think the product he provides is well worth it.
Cool part about the LS series is you actually don't have to remove the lifters for a cam swap. Just remove spring pressure, rotate cam a few times to push the lifters up and pull the cam.
Kevin has done right by me and I will continue to push his service and engines as I think the product he provides is well worth it.
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
4k is 2300 over what you could do this for. Although as said I won't say it's not worth it, just more than it cost to do it if you're handy. I have had two of mine ready to run with the harness and the engine on the test stand when I picked it up " I provided the motor" for under 2k including a new fuel system both times.
Buy a drive by cable motor or a whole truck and part it out and come out on top.
returnless fuel rail lq4 750-1200 with harness, then sell your harness$$
500 for new harness from psi
200 for tuning or a tuned computer
110 or less for a fuel pump
You are left to weld in two 02 sensor bungs 20.00
Wire a ground, fuel pump, ign on, 12v constant, wobble out a couple holes in the flex plate, conversion motor mount plates 40.00, adapt your current exhaust to the cut off pieces from the donor, use a tbi sending unit and high pressure snap lok hose/fittings with a 98-02 corvette fuel filter.... Hack the frame rail or buy headers and then peal out.
A cam is in these and you can go with a simple z06 cam for predictable respectable gains.
It's very easy once it's in
Buy a drive by cable motor or a whole truck and part it out and come out on top.
returnless fuel rail lq4 750-1200 with harness, then sell your harness$$
500 for new harness from psi
200 for tuning or a tuned computer
110 or less for a fuel pump
You are left to weld in two 02 sensor bungs 20.00
Wire a ground, fuel pump, ign on, 12v constant, wobble out a couple holes in the flex plate, conversion motor mount plates 40.00, adapt your current exhaust to the cut off pieces from the donor, use a tbi sending unit and high pressure snap lok hose/fittings with a 98-02 corvette fuel filter.... Hack the frame rail or buy headers and then peal out.
A cam is in these and you can go with a simple z06 cam for predictable respectable gains.
It's very easy once it's in
So for the longest time I have been set on coming up with a 6.0 swap. But, as time has gone by, I'm hating engines with spark plugs more by the day.
I'm HEAVILY considering just going Cummins. Why?
The initial cost of the transplant should be less than a 6.0 swap. I already have a 618 trans with a 205 behind it sitting in the corner of my shop ( came with the Cummins that went into my Bankout rig build, for those that followed that build). I'm a diesel mechanic, it's what I know best by a long shot. POWER! It's so easy to get 400HP/800ft lbs and not that costly to get to the 500-550HP and 4 digit torque range.
My question for you guys is.....
1. Who is making the best "kits" out there? Meaning drop in motor mounts, crossmember, etc.
2. I realize I will need to do some frame work to the engine area to handle the monster torque. Is boxing the front horns of the frame pretty much keeping cracks at bay or is more work needed?
3. What is the spline count on my 700R4/241 and what is the spline count on the 618/205 combo? I assume, with the correct adapter, I wouldn't be able to just bolt on my 241 to the 618 without changing the output shaft?
4. I never wheel, so a D60 was never even really a thought, " why haul around the extra weight for nothing" I thought. I would actually like to keep my 10b up front, but can the bearings and ball joints last any decent mileage with the weight?
I'm thinking a 12v P pump motor, studs, cometic head gasket, a big single, and enough fuel to make about 500HP. I would love to do a common rail ISBE and be different than all the 12v conversions out there, but the price on CR motors is probably more than what I want to spend, especially when I will find a 12v for $500-1000.
I'm pretty sure my 618 has been rebuilt. I'll have my trans shop buddy inspect the bands and internals and if all looks good, throw a valve body and a 3 disc low stall in and go with that. I'll have to figure out how to command lock up and overdrive though.
Oh, and I'm actually considering the weight of the Cummins on the front end a good thing. I'm wanting my K5 shorter anyway, and if the front springs happened to sag 2 full inches, that might be just short enough to not have to make a suspension change. With those front springs loaded up, I'm sure it will ride much smoother.
I'm HEAVILY considering just going Cummins. Why?
The initial cost of the transplant should be less than a 6.0 swap. I already have a 618 trans with a 205 behind it sitting in the corner of my shop ( came with the Cummins that went into my Bankout rig build, for those that followed that build). I'm a diesel mechanic, it's what I know best by a long shot. POWER! It's so easy to get 400HP/800ft lbs and not that costly to get to the 500-550HP and 4 digit torque range.
My question for you guys is.....
1. Who is making the best "kits" out there? Meaning drop in motor mounts, crossmember, etc.
2. I realize I will need to do some frame work to the engine area to handle the monster torque. Is boxing the front horns of the frame pretty much keeping cracks at bay or is more work needed?
3. What is the spline count on my 700R4/241 and what is the spline count on the 618/205 combo? I assume, with the correct adapter, I wouldn't be able to just bolt on my 241 to the 618 without changing the output shaft?
4. I never wheel, so a D60 was never even really a thought, " why haul around the extra weight for nothing" I thought. I would actually like to keep my 10b up front, but can the bearings and ball joints last any decent mileage with the weight?
I'm thinking a 12v P pump motor, studs, cometic head gasket, a big single, and enough fuel to make about 500HP. I would love to do a common rail ISBE and be different than all the 12v conversions out there, but the price on CR motors is probably more than what I want to spend, especially when I will find a 12v for $500-1000.
I'm pretty sure my 618 has been rebuilt. I'll have my trans shop buddy inspect the bands and internals and if all looks good, throw a valve body and a 3 disc low stall in and go with that. I'll have to figure out how to command lock up and overdrive though.
Oh, and I'm actually considering the weight of the Cummins on the front end a good thing. I'm wanting my K5 shorter anyway, and if the front springs happened to sag 2 full inches, that might be just short enough to not have to make a suspension change. With those front springs loaded up, I'm sure it will ride much smoother.
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supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
Maxpf on here did. Very nice swap and is very knowledgeable on all the details 
I love my 12 valve. Simple and powerful.
I say go for it. The fact that you don't really wheel the truck is a big factor. If you did I wouldn't be so on board but for a street/sand/dirt road kinda truck I think it'd be perfect.
I say go for it. The fact that you don't really wheel the truck is a big factor. If you did I wouldn't be so on board but for a street/sand/dirt road kinda truck I think it'd be perfect.
There are some pics of my boxing, the crossmember and how the engine sits in my K5 build thread.
Thanks for the info. I prefer a 241 over a 205, and I thought that if I got lucky I wouldn't have to do anything to my drivelines if I were able to reuse the 241 and it happened to stay in the same spot. Plus my 241 is rebuilt. No big deal, I'll just go with the 205.
I'm thinking that when things get slowed down around here this winter, this swap may need to become a reality.
95% sure I am going Cummins.
Around the same price in conversion/engine costs as an LS1 and will have WAY more power and better fuel economy.
I have decided I will not go with a 24v VP engine. It's about the same amount of work with electronics in a 24v and Common Rail conversion for the most part. If I'm going to go to the effort of messing with electronics, I might as well go Common Rail. I really like how my Common Rail runs in my '06 on the top end.
Or, I'll go the classic P pumped 12v route. This is the easiest and cheapest, since finding a common rail motor for under 3 grand is tough. I did a little bit of reading on my 518/205 combo I have laying in the shop, looks like it's basically worthless. They are non lock up trannies, so that pretty much kills it for me. Looks like I'm going to have to hunt for a 47RH after all. Next part will be to decide how I plan to control OD and lockup.
Around the same price in conversion/engine costs as an LS1 and will have WAY more power and better fuel economy.
I have decided I will not go with a 24v VP engine. It's about the same amount of work with electronics in a 24v and Common Rail conversion for the most part. If I'm going to go to the effort of messing with electronics, I might as well go Common Rail. I really like how my Common Rail runs in my '06 on the top end.
Or, I'll go the classic P pumped 12v route. This is the easiest and cheapest, since finding a common rail motor for under 3 grand is tough. I did a little bit of reading on my 518/205 combo I have laying in the shop, looks like it's basically worthless. They are non lock up trannies, so that pretty much kills it for me. Looks like I'm going to have to hunt for a 47RH after all. Next part will be to decide how I plan to control OD and lockup.
Swap in an NV4500 and your left foot controls the lockup 
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
There was a nice rig up I saw use Hobbs switched for the lockup and OD.
Ummmm..... ewwww!Swap in an NV4500 and your left foot controls the lockup
Not interested in a slow joe stick shift. Part of the reason I want to go Cummins is so that it will be fast. Got to go with an auto.
There are a few aftermarket stand alone controllers. I think I'll go that route. I want it to be automated and not have to run a pair of toggles during stop and go.
