Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....

[pblaze725]

For the aluminumenium I would go with the 5002 because it said "boats" I was under the impression that this will be used down in the marina and you've been subject to flooding, and when you're "done" you will will be performing emergency rescues and such.

For the skill saw get as many teeth as possible and double hearing protection.

 

[ryoken]

upper side rails are in... next week I'll get the C-hoop in....

don't mind the axle, it's just rolled under there till the new stuff get's here to keep the township from complaining..

 

[Chief Brody]

Looking good...great actually...and your weather looks good too judging from that shot....wish it would stop raining here.

 

[ryoken]

thanks.. today was nice, it poured ALL day yesterday... cleaned the Lab and rebuilt my welding helmet.. if I had both days, I would have had the C-hoop done too...

only getting sat next week, going to dinner sunday with my daughter and her fiancé...

but I'm gonna try to work on it a bit here and there thru the week...

the weather has been hanging in there tho... starting to cool off tho, down in the 40's in the morn, 60's during the day lately...

 

[Stomis]

Ryoken Idk who you've tried around here but SP sheetmetal down towards barnegate sells all sorts of aluminum. They do a lot of custom boatwork and fuel cells so maybe the stamping would be run of the mill.

Also last time I needed something sheered at the former employer on a project I went over to Monmouth Truck body. They did it for me for like $10, but it was a straight even clip. I did however hear they went out of business but they were by the Allaire Airport on 34.

The frame looks great BTW.

 

[ryoken]

yeah, I'm just in the very preliminary stages of alum research... not sure if I'm gonna order the toolboxes first, or get the alum.. tire purchase has taken precedence at this point..

hmmmm, I do know of SP... haven't talked to my welder bud, but he may very well end up recommending them...

thanks...

and actually.. now that you said that, I should go right down the street to my boat tank guy, Atlantic Welding in Bayville, and check with him.. he does all our marine tanks and is gonna do Mutt's fuel tank... maybe he can get me a deal too..

 

[folkenheath]

FYI, at my previous job we would frequently use 5052 for any AL that needed to be formed or bent. 6061 otherwise. Either could be welded pretty easily. We never used the 3003 and I am guessing because yeild strength goes from 28 ksi to 21 ksi, so the 5052-H32 is 33% stronger than 3003-H14.

 

[LNielson]

37" MTR's

You have one killer project going there. I wish I had the time or energy to make mine half as nice as yours.

I put a set of those 37" military MTR's on my Crew Cab over the summer. Here is a picture for reference, this truck is sitting on 4" Tuff Country HD springs.

They are really good tires. The tire shop was pissed when they saw how stiff the sidewalls were, their machine couldn't seat the beads they had to do it the old fashioned way with some starter fluid and a match. If you plan to load this truck up heavy, these tires are going to work super for you.

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/b469/LFNJR/IMG_2689.jpg

 

[ryoken]

thanks for the input guys..

those 37's really fill those wells... right now I'm poking around trying to find someone local with a machine that'll mount em.. I know a place about 45 minutes away that'll do em... hard to find guys that'll mount that big a tire anymore... let alone spin balance em..


stoked for the weekend.. got all day sat and 1/2 a day sunday for tubework lined up.. and it looks like the weather is gonna agree for a change..

 

[sweetk30]

pansy

i dismounted and remounted my tires in my driveway .

37" g/y mt old style off and brand new 35" bfg at on . the 16.5 you don't need a tire machine . just few prybars and slow and steady .

width of rim has huge effect on these hummer tires . there designed for 8.25-8.50 width rims and blowing them up/out to fit 10" wide yes it is a bit tricky .

little basic blue dawn dish soap and water get you lubed up on the beads to remove and install them your self . then have a shop use a BLAST can to seat them up . I ran my old 37" g/y mt no balance and did just fine.

 

[ryoken]

meh, it ain't worth my time fighting with tires, did that sh*t in the bodyshop.... I'd rather drive the 45 minutes and pay 30, $40 and have it done if I can...

I ran my KM2's without balance and no issue.. I'm just sayin..

 

[cybrfire]

You want the 5052.

More weldable than the 3003 and more corrosion resistance. Stronger after being welded and harder than the 3003 aluminum.

 

[TerryD]

let alone spin balance em..

I airsoft balance my tires. They are 33" Boggers and 35" BFG A/Ts but both sets are smooth at 60mph. I like it because I've torn some decent chunks of rubber off the Boggers and didn't have to rebalance, just as smooth going home as they were headed to the trail.

 

[runamok151]

A couple shops near me can mount them. Ceriale's auto on Woodlane Rd. in Mt. Holly did the 37x13 procomps I just sold. Their machine can do up to 40s, iirc.

And Morgan Tire on Sunset Rd. in Burlington.

I'm surprised you're having a problem finding a place to do it. 37 aren't outrageously big.

 

[ryoken]

well, I haven't even really looked recently.. I just know when I needed my 38 TSL's mounted a few yr's ago, no one wanted to do em that I talked to..

like I said, I found one place over in farmingdale that does em, and did my 38's.. it's just not 10 minutes down the road... more like a solid 1/2 hr..




C-hoop is going in...

 

[ryoken]

one of those kinda Saturdays... 5 hr's bending, fishmouthing and fitting the C-hoop, only to run out of argon after 6 tack welds...






obligatory slutting...

so... tomorrow I'll start bending up the 2 down angle tubes... basically it's just a radius right above the bed, so it goes vertically into the bed tube..

but I only have 1/2 a day so I'll probably just get the bends done on each and rough cut em to length... doubtful I'll get the fishmouthing done, but we'll see...

 

[ryoken]

and with that above roof note... what's Ryoken researching tonight???

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GN00HQ95u9k

































yup, light bars.. what I'm looking for is an oldschool, all amber lens look... but with modern LEd tech I think... just to avoid a huge draw...

some pretty cool, and seriously BRIGHT older halogen tech ones.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-48-Ambe...798?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4864bc6dd6

but I'd kinda like to run the newer LED versions with the same look.. but to be honest, all the LED retrofit-ish ones, don't seem nearly as bright as the halogens.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nce3JZa08vU

 

[sweetk30]

fyi guys on the lightbar forum I use once in a bit say older bars reflectors don't toss the led light out as good as we think it will by upgrading bulbs.

I have a streethawk bar .

I am going to leave the upper rotator h1 bulbs in place and just swap out the lower work / alley / flood lights to led as there a straight shot out bulb and there is some upgrade bulbs that others have had good luck with in this swap .

my center clear lens can be swapped with a amber to make it all amber . but I like the beak up look with clear in middle.

I have had people tell me all lights on its like a airport landing strip

I have read a full light streethawk like mine all on is someplace in the 60-65amp draw . my 105 amp alt stock on tbi engine wouldn't keep up after 20min run time and my plow is live hydro NOT electric. also 1000ca battery in the system . I jumped up to a 200amp alt that bolted in place and all good no problems for years. and I wired my plow lights separate so both stock and plow are on when working . separate toggle to kill plow lights when not needed. as lift / tire size let me drop blade a bit to show stock lights when driving .

 

[ryoken]

thanks..

yeah, that's what it looks like to me, the LED's just don't have the oomph that the halogens have..... obviously this is pretty far down the road for me, other priorities obviously (like 4 g's in toolboxes, alum and a fuel tank! ).. but definitely something I'd like to do..

I'll have to start researching it more seriously.. got a link to that forum by chance?


I'm not opposed to halogen, just trying to be smart about it... i'll be running dual #27's down under the bed and an upgraded alt, so juice shouldn't be an issue..

 

[sweetk30]

nice guys . free site . read the rules and you will be just fine. http://www.elightbars.org/