right, that's what I was talking about, have it come out, up, than mount a vise to a plate.. just gotta make sure it's storable somewhere in the boxes, drawers..
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Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....
- Thread starter ryoken
- Start date
right, that's what I was talking about, have it come out, up, than mount a vise to a plate.. just gotta make sure it's storable somewhere in the boxes, drawers..
They open up to nearly 6" and they are stout , it's plenty big for a portable , the other nice thing is that it comes with a mount channel that you can boot to a work bench or wherever to use it out of the hitch if wanted .Really like mine it works great and the price is right , Wilton is probably the best brand of vice out there. I have had other trail vices and even made my own , this one is much better.
It's doable for sure , but unless you can find a cheap vice on CL or pawn shop or something like that you would end up spending more money on the Vice and steel to make the mount and it would be MUCH heavier . The advantage to a normal vice though is that it rotates which could come in handy in some instances
the couple issues with my design that pertain to this are
#1 - the tiedown rail really messes with this... whether just hard mounting a vise on top, not doable now, unless I shorten the rail at like the one corner..... but I'm not crazy about the aesthetics there... or even bolting up that mount for the one you posted.. that would have been better, cuz than the vise is storable/safe/secure..
#2 my receiver is relatively low.... AND.... with the tubegate angled back, potential issue there..
we'll figure out the best approach when I get that far... heck, I still need to build the receiver section and it's bolt-in bracket up to the gooseneck plate too...
but I do like the idea of a slide in mount that would bring it out past the tubegate, and up to a reasonable height... obviously in a pinch, right in the receiver would get it done for ya..
but if I'm working on site, all day, my back will definitely appreciate it at a waist height!
to be honest, not exactly sure when i'll start that fab... could be as early as march or april, when I drag the bed out of the LAB™ and bolt it up on Mutt... or, it could be june/july.....
#1 - the tiedown rail really messes with this... whether just hard mounting a vise on top, not doable now, unless I shorten the rail at like the one corner..... but I'm not crazy about the aesthetics there... or even bolting up that mount for the one you posted.. that would have been better, cuz than the vise is storable/safe/secure..
#2 my receiver is relatively low.... AND.... with the tubegate angled back, potential issue there..
we'll figure out the best approach when I get that far... heck, I still need to build the receiver section and it's bolt-in bracket up to the gooseneck plate too...
but I do like the idea of a slide in mount that would bring it out past the tubegate, and up to a reasonable height... obviously in a pinch, right in the receiver would get it done for ya..
but if I'm working on site, all day, my back will definitely appreciate it at a waist height!
to be honest, not exactly sure when i'll start that fab... could be as early as march or april, when I drag the bed out of the LAB™ and bolt it up on Mutt... or, it could be june/july.....
.the couple issues with my design that pertain to this are
#1 - the tiedown rail really messes with this... whether just hard mounting a vise on top, not doable now, unless I shorten the rail at like the one corner..... but I'm not crazy about the aesthetics there... or even bolting up that mount for the one you posted.. that would have been better, cuz than the vise is storable/safe/secure..
#2 my receiver is relatively low.... AND.... with the tubegate angled back, potential issue there..
we'll figure out the best approach when I get that far... heck, I still need to build the receiver section and it's bolt-in bracket up to the gooseneck plate too...
but I do like the idea of a slide in mount that would bring it out past the tubegate, and up to a reasonable height... obviously in a pinch, right in the receiver would get it done for ya..
but if I'm working on site, all day, my back will definitely appreciate it at a waist height!
to be honest, not exactly sure when i'll start that fab... could be as early as march or april, when I drag the bed out of the LAB™ and bolt it up on Mutt... or, it could be june/july.....
The height thing, I hadn't really considered that because all our rigs are fairly tall . It does sit a little low in my crew cab it's 5" of lift and 38" tires . So I can definitely see where on a truck that is lower , and with a low mounted receiver would get old to try and use.
yeah, this will be used around the marina all day as my work vehicle, so I have to keep those kinda things in mind...
okay... suggestions wanted...
as I mentioned, the coffin floor will be fixed in the back (you can see the blue mounts in the pic), but in front of that will be a removable section to access the gooseneck.... it will have a rectangular tube stock at the front and back of it that it will lay on..
I want something a bit faster than unbolting countersinks that will used for the rest of the panels... do you think a Dzus fastener of some sort is the best choice?
it'll be a 1/4" thick alum plate, about 12" to 15" x 29" wide... would they be installable in a thicker piece like that? I have no experience with them whatsoever... I figure like 6 of em, 3 across the front and 3 across the back..
suggestions? any more trick solutions than those out there?
as I mentioned, the coffin floor will be fixed in the back (you can see the blue mounts in the pic), but in front of that will be a removable section to access the gooseneck.... it will have a rectangular tube stock at the front and back of it that it will lay on..
I want something a bit faster than unbolting countersinks that will used for the rest of the panels... do you think a Dzus fastener of some sort is the best choice?
it'll be a 1/4" thick alum plate, about 12" to 15" x 29" wide... would they be installable in a thicker piece like that? I have no experience with them whatsoever... I figure like 6 of em, 3 across the front and 3 across the back..
suggestions? any more trick solutions than those out there?
I think you can get those quarter turn fasteners in different lengths. I used them on my Camaro hood because I got a good deal in a lift off cowl hood to clear my air cleaner. The alignment has to be pretty exact and put washers on all the spring rivets so they don't pop off. They've worked out ok but if I had it to do again I'd spend the money for a bolt on hood.
For a simpler approach, at the back the removable piece could go under the piece behind it then use a couple hardware store sliding bolt locks at the front into holes in the side panel. No digging for a quarter or screw driver when you need it out quick or speciality parts to source.
As for the vise, I thought you were referring to the one K20 posted that had the receiver mount built in.
For a simpler approach, at the back the removable piece could go under the piece behind it then use a couple hardware store sliding bolt locks at the front into holes in the side panel. No digging for a quarter or screw driver when you need it out quick or speciality parts to source.
As for the vise, I thought you were referring to the one K20 posted that had the receiver mount built in.
my thought on the vise was that you could probably get a bigger vise for less if it was a standard, "bolt to a bench" style..
hmmmm, you just gave me an idea... I could do the tuck under a lip deal in the back by the fuel tank.. but maybe go with some trick southco latches that I've been so fond of in my K5 build..
tho I would do stainless as opposed to plastic..
2 of these push to close type ones, like this maybe,
hmmmm, you just gave me an idea... I could do the tuck under a lip deal in the back by the fuel tank.. but maybe go with some trick southco latches that I've been so fond of in my K5 build..
tho I would do stainless as opposed to plastic..
2 of these push to close type ones, like this maybe,
Do you have a source you are finding all these neat fasteners or are you just googling away? You seem to find some killer looking latches.
-Mike
-Mike
it's boat stuff, I see it daily in Sea Ray's, etc.. I get it from whoever has em, my distributors, the web, etc..... Southco is THE supplier for neat latches and hardware in boats... WAY high quality products.. my marina actually has an account with them for our boat building biz..
they actually make lot's of neat stuff.. hinges, my K5 has a pair in the console, etc..
I run a whole bunch of these 2 styles of latches in the K5... both are "push to close" and "turn to open" styles..
these are Novibra model ones.. they fuggin rule... I use em on my glove/plexi door, my electronics box, etc..
these are obviously push to open the knob, than you turn the knob 90 degrees...
http://www.southco.com/en-us/
FP marine out of florida is a good source for southco stuff too...
http://www.fpmarine.com/
just hunt any model number or name from southco's site..in a search and see who has em... southco is a bit difficult to actually order from if you don't have an account.. kinda like Carling switches..
they actually make lot's of neat stuff.. hinges, my K5 has a pair in the console, etc..
I run a whole bunch of these 2 styles of latches in the K5... both are "push to close" and "turn to open" styles..
these are Novibra model ones.. they fuggin rule... I use em on my glove/plexi door, my electronics box, etc..
these are obviously push to open the knob, than you turn the knob 90 degrees...
http://www.southco.com/en-us/
FP marine out of florida is a good source for southco stuff too...
http://www.fpmarine.com/
just hunt any model number or name from southco's site..in a search and see who has em... southco is a bit difficult to actually order from if you don't have an account.. kinda like Carling switches..
it's boat stuff, I see it daily in Sea Ray's, etc.. I get it from whoever has em, my distributors, the web, etc..... Southco is THE supplier for neat latches and hardware in boats... WAY high quality products.. my marina actually has an account with them for our boat building biz..
they actually make lot's of neat stuff.. hinges, my K5 has a pair in the console, etc..
I run a whole bunch of these 2 styles of latches in the K5... both are "push to close" and "turn to open" styles..
these are Novibra model ones.. they fuggin rule...
these are obviously push to open, than you turn the knob 90 degrees...
http://www.southco.com/en-us/
FP marine out of florida is a good source too...
http://www.fpmarine.com/
just hunt any model number or name from southco's site..in a search and see who has em... southco is a bit difficult to actually order from if you don't have an account.. kinda like Carling switches..
Thanks for the info...should have realized it was boat items.
okay... suggestions wanted...
as I mentioned, the coffin floor will be fixed in the back (you can see the blue mounts in the pic), but in front of that will be a removable section to access the gooseneck.... it will have a rectangular tube stock at the front and back of it that it will lay on..
I want something a bit faster than unbolting countersinks that will used for the rest of the panels... do you think a Dzus fastener of some sort is the best choice?
it'll be a 1/4" thick alum plate, about 12" to 15" x 29" wide... would they be installable in a thicker piece like that? I have no experience with them whatsoever... I figure like 6 of em, 3 across the front and 3 across the back..
suggestions? any more trick solutions than those out there?
check these out Paul.... http://www.quik-latch.com/
wow, those are nice, look quality... definitely a possibility.. they'd be slicker than weasel snot on a hood...
my only prob with em for this app is, I don't want anything to be able to fall on em and pop em open... southco had a couple similar that I avoided for that reason...
my only prob with em for this app is, I don't want anything to be able to fall on em and pop em open... southco had a couple similar that I avoided for that reason...
Not to be a downer, but aren't you worried about how sand and dirt are going to effect the operation of some of these? They are in what amounts to a foot well after all. Not saying they aren't awesome and all but will they still be so when you're beating them open with a chisel?
the set I posted I'm not worried about at all, they are often used on deck type surface hatches on boats.. notorious for sand, etc getting in them... they get chit in em, ya rinse it out with a hose... no big thang...
a nice feature about those Southco ones is they are a tapered, spring-tensioned catch, so they "click in" and will not rattle..
the other aspect is that I'm pretty certain I'll be running that same cut-down, thick, rubber truck bedmat that I run in the back of the K5 in that compartment floor.... so being flush, is vital..
tho it'll be a 2 piece, fitting over the large fixed, and that piece seperately... 1 piece would be nice, but obviously becomes a storage issue when towing.... that should also help mitigate any crud loading issue... when I rinse the truck off I can just pop em out, wash em, and the coffin out, etc..
a nice feature about those Southco ones is they are a tapered, spring-tensioned catch, so they "click in" and will not rattle..
the other aspect is that I'm pretty certain I'll be running that same cut-down, thick, rubber truck bedmat that I run in the back of the K5 in that compartment floor.... so being flush, is vital..
tho it'll be a 2 piece, fitting over the large fixed, and that piece seperately... 1 piece would be nice, but obviously becomes a storage issue when towing.... that should also help mitigate any crud loading issue... when I rinse the truck off I can just pop em out, wash em, and the coffin out, etc..
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Musing on your design and want of a vise.
I am assuming that you will have tail lights and such in the rear facing vertical panels on this bed, on either side of the drop down gate. If looking down from the top, is the triangular area in those two rear corners going to be unused space?
I ask because I was wondering if you could hide a receiver hitch in among the tail lights on each of those two faces. Keep it flush with the finished outside wall and a little bracing inside, just need a long enough shaft to place the vise out were its workable.
Musing on your design and want of a vise.
I am assuming that you will have tail lights and such in the rear facing vertical panels on this bed, on either side of the drop down gate. If looking down from the top, is the triangular area in those two rear corners going to be unused space?
I ask because I was wondering if you could hide a receiver hitch in among the tail lights on each of those two faces. Keep it flush with the finished outside wall and a little bracing inside, just need a long enough shaft to place the vise out were its workable.
hmmm, interesting.. and conceivably doable.... yeah, those 2 side panels will have space behind them.. and they will be for the taillights... I'm gonna do that edge-lit plexi tech I use to make decently sized ones.. but the panel will still have a fairly large border of alum around the perimeter...
my only issue with that off the top of my head is that I'm not certain I like the idea of a receiver hitch being exposed there.. aesthetically... tho it would be a very small footprint in the corner, next to the lense.. I would do it so it points straight out the back in the corner..
interesting, good idea... albeit, more fab work...
I'll keep it in mind as an add-on when the taillight/vise time comes..
