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Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....

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Where are you reading pressure? Did you put a pressure gauge at the throttle body?
 
I might have to try one of those.

Would one handle a mild carbed engine if I decide to go that route? I liked the TBI I had on my 89 K2500, but after I did the TBI swap on the 79, it hasnt worked right since, and I'm getting sick of messing with it.

I really should get a pressure gauge on it. What gauge did you go with? CFM tech has the 0-15PSI, and a 0-60, Is there a range that would be more ideal?
 
79rustyk10 said:
I might have to try one of those.

Would one handle a mild carbed engine if I decide to go that route? I liked the TBI I had on my 89 K2500, but after I did the TBI swap on the 79, it hasnt worked right since, and I'm getting sick of messing with it.

I really should get a pressure gauge on it. What gauge did you go with? CFM tech has the 0-15PSI, and a 0-60, Is there a range that would be more ideal?
Click to expand...



well, I definitely wouldn't run it with a carb without a reg and return... it'd fill the float bowl, gush out the overflow, fill the engine and cause the downfall of mankind...

i run a mechanical autometer sport comp, 0 - 15...



9f52f074.jpg




tbi should never need more than 15... tho i had considered a 0 -60 cuz i'm going mpfi down the road.... so i'll have to buy a new gauge at that point...


and yeah, checking fuel pressure is a super common diagnostic on efi's.... one of the most common tests I do on boats, drop a pressure gauge on em...


with the low psi tbi pump issue, you could tell.. the motor would start falling on it's face as the pressure got too low...

what are the symptoms you are having?
 
dhcomp said:
Where are you reading pressure? Did you put a pressure gauge at the throttle body?
Click to expand...


i run the cfm tech adapter on the tbi inlet, small steelbraided hose up to the gauge on the hood... love the setup.. ran it for years on the k5... seems silly to me to run a gauge on the tbi.. doesn't do nearly as much good diagnostically if you can't see it while driving..
 
Not trying to Hijack, Maybe should start another thread.

When I did the swap I had a 88 K5 parts truck parked next to my 79 K10.

I gutted the wiring and everything from the K10 and swapped it with everything from the K5. Basicly the only real mods I did was making the K5 fuel lines work with the truck. I have a Shortbed tank, and I modified the sending unit from the K5 to fit the truck tank. Shortened it IIRC with a compression union.

When I got it together, it ran but never good. it would start and idle, but anything off idle it would stumble and die, while occasionally it would stumble along long enough and would run WOT. been that way for 3+ years now. I went to school and the thing has been sitting.

Just recently, within a couple months, I rebuilt/replaced the throttle body. When I took mine apart it was chock full of rust and scale. The injectors were toast. I got one off a newer K truck at the yard, combined them with a rebuild kit and have yet to get it on since I live almost 3 hours from my parents place.

An actual truck sending unit is on the to get list also. I just ordered the CFM tech adapter, now off to summit for a gauge.
 
yeah, you need to make sure the basics are covered... no codes, good pressure and pattern, etc... might wanna check EGR on that too, many off idle issues i've seen have been bad or sh*tting the bed EGR's...
 
Its been so long that I dont remember if I checked EGR or not.

I know the K5 hauled ass, for a stock TBI 350 before it came apart.

Thanks for the pointers though.
 
unfortunately both of those are incorrect... the GMC horn part will be square... and these are the lenses... i did see the whole lights somewhere for $20 a piece tho...


http://www.classicparts.com/1973-91-Clearance-Lamp-Lens/productinfo/51-751/


thanks for keeping an eye out!


I hadn't even checked on the GMC horn button yet.. not real high on the priority list at this point...
 
so....... chevy305 was right.... :bow:


I should have made my stabilizer mount adjustable... :doah:


Mutt is wearing the inside of my KM2's pretty bad, well noticable anyway... only about 4500 on em, and you can see the uneven wear... equal on ds and ps.... I have to assume I have too much toe-in... camber looks fine, king pins are all new, etc...

the truck drives beautiful, tracks great on the highway and such.. I'll have to see who locally has a drive over machine to check it... and I'll have to disconnect and redo the stabilizer mount once corrected... in the meantime, I'm going to rotate the tires to get an even wear pair from the back up to the front before the fronts get any more f*cked up.. :doah:
 
ryoken said:
so....... chevy305 was right.... :bow:


I should have made my stabilizer mount adjustable... :doah:


Mutt is wearing the inside of my KM2's pretty bad, well noticable anyway... only about 4500 on em, and you can see the uneven wear... equal on ds and ps.... I have to assume I have too much toe-in... camber looks fine, king pins are all new, etc...

the truck drives beautiful, tracks great on the highway and such.. I'll have to see who locally has a drive over machine to check it... and I'll have to disconnect and redo the stabilizer mount once corrected... in the meantime, I'm going to rotate the tires to get an even wear pair from the back up to the front before the fronts get any more f*cked up.. :doah:
Click to expand...

I was? I don't remember that but hey I'll gladly take the credit ;)
 
Stomis said:
No regrets on welding the steering stabilizer bracket on the tie rod? Gonna have to give the thing a full turn to adjust toe now no?
Click to expand...


my bad... twas Stomis that pointed that out... :doah:
 
I know when I had BFG's on my 2500 HD, I had to rotate them about every 5k or they would start cupping on the edges even with a good front end alignment. That is just their nature.
 
Wearing on the inside if the tires would be caused by toe out I believe. Causing the inside if the tires to scrub going down the road. Someone correct me if I'm wrong
 
I'd love to verify that, I just assumed it was too much toe-in.. it was set up exactly to the prior width that the stock push/pull was set at.. like i said, the truck tracks and drives beautiful, no wandering, etc...

need to get it addressed over the next couple weeks...
 
I'm about 99% sure it's toe out that would cause that. And you should be able to get toe close with just a tape measure. Or most discount tires or other shops will give free alignment checks
 
Tow out Im sure causes wear on the inside. The tires look like \ / when looked at from the top, causing wear on in inside.
 
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