CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....

You've got to be a master at blending the way you do your painting in parts...sometimes months between....wish I posessed the painting skills :waytogo:
 
thanks boys! :bow:






100_1235_zps237e233c.jpg








100_1231_zps23ffcfa1.jpg







back to tube work this coming weekend.. :grind::weld::hack:
 
Amazing work as always. Love watching your progress.

BTW does anyone else feel the desire to play Jenga with those cinder blocks....
 
Amazing work as always. Love watching your progress.

BTW does anyone else feel the desire to play Jenga with those cinder blocks....


No, but I want to do some kind of skateboard rail grind on those bed tubes!!!

:D


-G
 
ok, need advice...



eyeing up my aluminum panels for the tubebed.... I'm getting 2 4' x 8' x 1/4" sheets...

but now I don't know which is the better choice.... 3003-H14 or 5052-H32 ?

6061 is too expensive and I think a bit overkill for the app...





5002


ASTM B209, QQ-A-250/8) Superior corrosion resistance, good weldability, with excellent formability, makes 5052 Aluminum Plate a common choice for chemical, marine or saltwater applications. 5052 Aluminum Plate applications include: tanks, drums, marine hardware, boat hulls, etc.

or

When a combination of weldability and resistance to salt water is required, Alloy 5052 stands up to the challenge. It is commonly used for the bodies of boats, buses, trucks, and trailers, as well as for chemical drums. It is nonmagnetic and not heat treatable. Temperature range is -300° to 300° F.




and the 3003 reads


(ASTM B209, QQ-A-250/2) Excellent weldability,formability, with good corrosion resistance make 3003 Aluminum Plate a popular and economical choice. 3003 Aluminum Plate has a smooth, shiny finish and is popular for many cosmetic and industrial applications, including: decorative trim, fuel tanks, food & chemical handling, trailer siding & roofing, etc

or

Often used for tanks, heat exchangers, and general sheet metal work, Alloy 3003 offers excellent corrosion resistance with good formability and weldability. It is nonmagnetic and not heat treatable. Temperature range is -300° to 300° F, unless otherwise stated



the prices are virtually the same.. the 5002 is a few more bucks per sheet...


I'm just not sure what a real world comparison/use/difference of the 2 side by side is... I don't do alum fab and such.. anyone have experience between the 2?


it's going to be a scuffpad, burnished satin finish if it matters... and just flat sheet pieces in various shapes... no fab, just bolt em up with same countersunk allens as the K5 stuff... no welding, but it may be nice to put a tab here or there down the road.......






:popcorn: also.... any suggestions on tools/implements of death to cut said 1/4" alum?

lot's of big, long straight runs.. ideal for a circular saw.. anything i can run in that? whatabout those blades for coldsaw saws?

a jigsaw would bring the ghey...
 
Skill saw with a carbide tipped blade will cut all day long. I would go with the 5000 series. BUT, talk to a welder about the weldability of the two. I seem to remember that 5000 was a pain to MIG for some reason. :dunno:
 
so just like a regular finetooth carbide, like 50, 60, 80 tooth?
 
boy that's got to be hurling some chit.... better wear my grinding shield... :haha:
 
We use 5052 for all of our sign work. Cut 1/8" & 1/4" with the circular saw all the time.
 
The once or twice I have done aluminum stuff we have used a circular saw for the cuts too. It makes quite the racket too.

I would find out which one will weld the best. Are you planning on welding? If not then go with the greater corrosion resistance.

I would imagine you would get a spool gun for the mig and I bet there will be a couple spots where welding is just gonna work better.

So if I planned on welding or not I would still get the most weldable
 
Could you not just measure out each plate and have a fab shop with a shear stamp them out? We had the shop he bought the metal from stamp out the shapes we needed to floor my buddy's tube bed.

I don't think they charged hardly anything for it and only took a few minutes vs the time/hassle of using torches to cut the steel at the shop.
 
for as much as I'd like to save the labor and hear the ca-chunk of a big shear chopping it, I'll be happy to find a local supplier... :haha:


I have to talk to my welder bud and see who he says is good to get it from around here...

just to look it up, I priced it out at metal depot.. surprisingly the shipping was not bad at all...

$906 for the 2 sheets and $60 shipping.. I thought that shipping sounded cheap for 2 4x8's of alum...


but there are quite a few panels.. I'd have to give em templates prolly to feel secure that they would be right.. some will be standard rectangles, etc, but some others will not...
 
FWIW, we MIG weld our aluminum using a spool gun and argon gas.
 
First time saw someone using a circul ar saw to cut aluminum Itthought he was bonkers! But it went smooth and the cut was perfectly straight and smooth! Couldn't believe it.
 
yeah, I've done it in the past on tablesaws... with alum, feed rate always seems to be the critical point.. it's so soft, it'll start sucking that material in...
 
Top Bottom