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Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....

Careful there Paul, you don't have to say my name three times........
Metal planers are pretty much obsolete these days, so you might actually find one in an old shop or backyard somewhere for a small price.
Hard to gauge the size of the pieces you are working with, but my suggestion would be a surface grinder with a buffing wheel instead of a rock. I have worked on several of them over the years, back when I still had a job. And money.....
I know you have seen them, large high speed grinding rock running parallel with the material while the table moves back and forth under it.
Each time or every other time it makes a pass, the rock moves out or in about half the width of the rock.
Then, when it has moved over the entire surface, it lowers a set amount, and starts over again.
I would turn off the lowering part, and turn up the forward and back amount.

I hear you about the baby diapers, but I have a suggestion. Do a search for "microfiber" cloths. I kept hearing all kinds of wonderful things about them, so a bought a small selection off Amazon. My problem is my glasses. I have tried everything I can find to try to get the smudges off. The latest pair, I specifically did not get them with the antifog coating. That helped a lot. With the right type cloths, and some Windex, I was able to minimize the smudges.
Then the microfibers came in. No Windex, no water, nothing. Wipe them down, and they are crystal clear. Eventually they get dirty, just a quick wash, and they are good as new. They say don't use soap, but one of them had some grease on them from where I forgot and cleaned my glasses while eating fried chicken.
The one washed in water and the one with soap and water seem the same.
I would post the link, and will if you or anyone wants, but these are small, about 3 inches by 3 inches, and you would need bigger I imagine.

I know its way too late for this suggestion, but I do have a solution for both the palm smudges and the worry about what to coat it with..........
Three little numbers.......316
Sure it is heavier, but you could use a lot thinner material..
FART, my fever just hit 102 again, gotta go. No idea what the heck has jumped on me. No sore throat, no obvious symptoms, just a dry cough when my fever gets up, and an extreme weakness. Thought I had it whipped, fever was normal all day, but started climbing again and now I need to take steps.
 
eesh, get better.. thanks... yeah, microfiber stuff is pretty amazing these days... it's like a whole science with car detail guys..

i figured out the smudge deal.... you just have have to go right to a hot/soapy wash of the panel, than let them dry vertically... you just have to handle em from the edges at that point till coated...
 
Why in the world would you use a dodge nv4500? Anyway here's a much more reasonable setup that won't break the bank. Chevy nv4500, np205 (doubler whatever). THEN the only thing you need is a GM manual adapter plate from a 4bt Cummins. Shouldn't run over 400 bucks with the flywheel. I think I have put four of this exact setup together in trucks and never had an issue to 400hp. Granted you'll need a clutch upgrade from stock but it will keep all your drive lines and all GM parts.

I have found several nv's in my neck of the woods for 500 bucks, I have an extra sitting here now. No need for bellhousing conversions or nonsense. Just run the GM stuff. Done.

(Drops mic)...
 
Why in the world would you use a dodge nv4500? Anyway here's a much more reasonable setup that won't break the bank. Chevy nv4500, np205 (doubler whatever). THEN the only thing you need is a GM manual adapter plate from a 4bt Cummins. Shouldn't run over 400 bucks with the flywheel. I think I have put four of this exact setup together in trucks and never had an issue to 400hp. Granted you'll need a clutch upgrade from stock but it will keep all your drive lines and all GM parts.

I have found several nv's in my neck of the woods for 500 bucks, I have an extra sitting here now. No need for bellhousing conversions or nonsense. Just run the GM stuff. Done.

(Drops mic)...



umm, catch up, been planning a GM box for a while now with dodge input......... not interested in the breadtruck setup... the dodge box was a common suggestion I got from that other thread if ya come across it on the used market as a viable path.... i may, or may not find a $500 core local, I haven't seen sh*t.. doesn't matter, it'll be a core anyway...
 
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umm, catch up, been planning a GM box for a while now with dodge input......... not interested in the breadtruck setup... the dodge box was a common suggestion I got from that other thread if ya come across it on the used market as a viable path.... i may, or may not find a $500 core local, I haven't seen sh*t.. doesn't matter, it'll be a core anyway...

I read a bunch but not all... Was just looking at the estimates for parts and thought it was astronomical. The last nv4500 I bought had about 7k miles on a full rebuild. The spare one I have has never been in a truck since it was rebuilt. Last one I did a full rebuild on myself was 1,000.00 with billet shaft in parts and took most of an afternoon to put together.
 
I read a bunch but not all... Was just looking at the estimates for parts and thought it was astronomical. The last nv4500 I bought had about 7k miles on a full rebuild. The spare one I have has never been in a truck since it was rebuilt. Last one I did a full rebuild on myself was 1,000.00 with billet shaft in parts and took most of an afternoon to put together.


I'm a "worst case scenario" guy.. I don't sugar-coat sh*t in my head.. especially with my taste in parts/materials... it's a practice I follow at work on boat estimates, that I try to carry over to myself...... "I'd rather tell you it's gonna be 2 g's, than charge you $1500, as opposed to trying to get an extra 500 out of ya at the end, type approach..

if i can get some sh*t cheaper, etc, I will.. but I have certain requirements here as to what I'm willing to compromise on with this build..... so far, i think my decisions have been pretty good.. if I have to save a bit, or work some OT, I'll do it... trust me, I'll be scouring CL, marketplace, eghey, neighbors and such for everything.. just trying to figure out exactly what component list I want....


stoked to have 1.5 days this weekend to fab... gonna bang some chit out sunday.... :weld:
 
ok, having never owned a dizzle rig before....... let's say i run 4" exhaust all the way behind the tire, what will a straight pipe vs resonator vs muffler do for my tone? I'd like it pretty damn snotty... straight pipe? or will that annoy me? I know SB/BB not these... :doah: I will not run any kind of tip.... heck, I may even do it as a straightpipe turndown.... :haha:
 
Mine is straight 4" with a large semi muffler that has nearly zero resistance. it's pretty loud, throaty and doesn't drone when going down the highway. It pisses LOTS of people off in town though....BWAHAHAHAHAHHAAAA
 
4 inch with no muffler sounds like a tractor. Pretty cool. A muffler like mbrp or flopro off the shelf kits are gonna sound good and lower drone levels under 2400rpm. Over that it's just loud.

I vote for straight no muffler. Add one if you can't stand it. I like em both.
 
I vote for straight no muffler. Add one if you can't stand it. I like em both.

that was my exact line of thinking.. I was disappointed with how quite my magnaflow makes it now... the rig is obnoxious looking, might as well make it sound that way too...

thanks guys...
 
If you want loud and obnoxious, sell the Cummins and go with a Detroit 2 stroke diesel. Their 4cyl fits. Or install the 'C' turbo (whistler) from a m35a2 deuce and a half. Not powerful, but no turbo is shrill like that.
 
If you want loud and obnoxious, sell the Cummins and go with a Detroit 2 stroke diesel. Their 4cyl fits. Or install the 'C' turbo (whistler) from a m35a2 deuce and a half. Not powerful, but no turbo is shrill like that.


I see enough 2-stroke Detroits in the boats... ;)



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I’m excited to see how you stab and integrate the Cummins. I know it’s been done a hundred times and everyone has an opinion on the “best” way, but you’ve got a great eye for detail and build at a very high level.

I’m in.

David
 
I see enough 2-stroke Detroits in the boats... ;)



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Haha yea I'm used to working on their 16V92's that my previous employer had on some of the the drilling rigs. Screamin Detroits.

There's a couple NV4500's on my local classifieds page but shipping would probably kill the deals and all the cheaper ones are the early GM version.
 
that was my exact line of thinking.. I was disappointed with how quite my magnaflow makes it now... the rig is obnoxious looking, might as well make it sound that way too...

thanks guys...

I've run both 4" straight pipe and currently have 5" with a dynomax muffler on my dodge. Both are loud, the mufflers help's with the raspyness I've noticed. Still with either setup it's easy to talk in the cab unless the windows are open.

I will the biggest factor is actually the angle and location of the tip. I've got a 45° bend right at the end. Points down and away. Keeps some of the sound from the cab.
 
My extended cab long box 92 with a Cummins had 4” straight that exited 90 degrees out behind the right rear. Sound was amazing yet toned down in the cab to make it so everyone else heard it but you. Man do I miss how that truck sounded
 
can exhaust shops bend up 4"? not sure if my meineke goes that big... at least the old 96 exhaust will be good for mock-up.. see if that tailpipe and such could work if i just want to buy a new one to get over the axle...


heading down to the LAB™ with my coffee..... new killa Kenwood amp for the stereo down there.. bellypan mounting today... maybe first panel coats tonight, neEr depending....
 
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