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Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....

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build babble post later for your snoring pleasure.....









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Not sure how you're going to fit a cummins sticker on the back window.


that shot is quite the clutter isn't it???? ;) :haha: :saweet: it's my middle finger to popular world.. it's my rig, built for me... :p


I'm kinda torn on the whole Cummins life/rolling coal doucheknots, etc thing... :dunno: :dunno: ;) should I hate them?????? :haha: :pimp: ehh, you build a bro-dozer, i hate ya...


I will do a flag at some point to add to the rotation... I'm still completely up in the air about what, and if, I'm gonna do some sort of fender badging on the rig.. I was contemplating a simple 5.9 #'s done in satin black... I'm thinking 3D, not just painted/decal'd...


but whatever...





couple more pooch walks


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and another 11ty bourbons and i'll start typin out the build minutia running thru my cranium... :ignore:
 
I am going to try and keep it as low smoke as possible. A muffler! No badging and pretty low key. Just an old tractor motor with 50 psi.....


i figure a simple 5.9 will be kinda humorous to those in the know.... :dunno:


I'm a dizzle exhurst idjit.. literally....:haha: snotty BB, got ya covered! no clue what make a good dizzle note... no fuggin tip..... just not sure where to dump it...

the other thing that sucks, more later on this.... is the ps is where my electrics will run... would rather they run ds, with the fuel system, away from the exhaust.. more later.. ;)
 
so, last nights revelation was that I'm often stooopid.... :deal: :haha:

since the beginning of the bed build, I kind of just had it in my head that the bat box should be on the ps... but now that I'm going dizzle, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna run it on the ds... make the ps one for the jack and gear... obviously the exhaust down the ps, and 6BT starter being on the ds are major factors in this decision..


the advantage to this decision is that I can start working on that bat system now.... gearing it up for the new mill and electrical system... the bad part is all that time I put into running the lightbar harness down the ps side, really should have gone down the ds.... not the end of the world, i can work around it...

I'm just keeping my fingers x-d that i can fit all the components in the bat box.. 2 remote bats switches, ACR, small sub panel and winch solenoid in addition to 2 #27's... actually gonna go down today and see if my sliding bat tray ideaR is doable or not.....






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oh, I'm doing this overly convoluted plan......:haha: :screwy: :pimp1:

just to be kook..... :saweet: :dunno: :doah:




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the slides are perfect for a full length shelf... tho i'm not sure exactly HOW I'm gonna utilize a full shelf.... as you can see, 2 #27's fit easily in the back.... but I'm thinking they may sit right by the door, than the middle back of the shelf will be cutout, so i can hardmount components to the fixed floor... in other words, i only want 1 red and black wire moving when the tray moves in/out.. they will feed 2 main power posts on the wall...


the one other obvious issue is height... it will have to be a negative drop shelf to the slides.. maybe a 1/4" gap at the bottom... but than it's very doable... the hardest part will be figuring out the slide mounting.. pretty sure I'll incorporate some alum bracketing welded to the floor piece...
 
hmmmm, wait a sec.......






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this might simplify things.....


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just mount them all the way to the side, for a cutout in the back...



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it'll be simpler and way stronger... single piece of 1/4"...




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That is badass



i think it could be... just gotta get all the components together and start fitting it up.. not sure if I'm doing bulkhead connectors in the back wall for the main power, or liquid-tight fittings like I used in the K5... it's tight, once the fuel tank is in, that area is inaccessible, unless you remove the panel from inside the box.. i'd like to run liquid-tights, as it's one less connection.. just not sure I can make the 90 behind the box with the cable...

CD29NA-BK-2.jpg


vs


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I'm thinking now i may do the whole space as a lower shelf, and also mount my bat switches and ACR to it in front of the batts....... would just need to add a couple small trigger wires to the "moving wires" harness..... winch solenoid and sub panel I'm thinking mounted on the sidewalls toward the front... bats in the back, and bat switches/ACR in front... that way the components are all readily accessible when you open the door, and can still slide the whole floor out for easy bat swap/access...




oh, the bat switches will be the coolest part of this entire rig... :deal: :deal: :deal: :pimp: remote fired with a momentary contura in the cockpit... that remote "clunk" you here from the switch when ya hit the contura makes ya giddy... :woot: :saweet: :haha:

other than a fellow member I turned onto these that's running em, I've never seen anyone running them in anything other than a boat... heck, Blue Seas should be sending royalty checks to me for the whole intraweb now using their stuff in rigs anyway... :haha:


this setup on the front of the tray...

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the other unmentioned thing is, I still need to build/install a "ceiling" in that compartment.. :doah: you can see here... the drawer bottom acts like one to an extent, but that area to the left is completely open at the top... it needed to be done at some point, no matter what... more panel mount tabs, yada...


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oh, I gotta say.. I'm pretty displeased with these led worklights from Sidewinder.. i see he only sells cheap stuff now.. i've had nothing but problems with these... now one only has 3 out of 9 led's coming on, flickery, etc.. rather annoyed, as these certainly weren't cheap.. i'll have to fire off an e-mail this week, but being he doesn't sell these anymore, I'm sure I'll be f*cked...
 
Hmm, an idea to utilize the entire box area:

Batts secured at the rear like you mentioned
Have 2 (or maybe more) compartments in the drawer. One compartment to serve as the "control area" with the switches, winch solenoids, etc. The other compartment/s to hold the winch controller and the jumper cables.

For the battery cables, welding cable might be flexible enough to use the non bulkhead fitting.
 
Man I haven't kept up enough. The shots of your truck with the grain elevators is STELLAR! Absolutely awesome. So cool. Man.

I hope you appreciate the fact that I'm going to rip off all your ideas when I do my crew
 
Hmm, an idea to utilize the entire box area:

Batts secured at the rear like you mentioned
Have 2 (or maybe more) compartments in the drawer. One compartment to serve as the "control area" with the switches, winch solenoids, etc. The other compartment/s to hold the winch controller and the jumper cables.

For the battery cables, welding cable might be flexible enough to use the non bulkhead fitting.


the prob is utilizing the slide out drawer eliminates any use of drawers, cubbies, etc... the 2 bat's will take up virtually the whole opening as they come thru.. I have plenty of room to pinch them in to the middle a bit and mount stuff to the wall tho... but thanks, you bring up a big thing for me to think about that I hadn't thought about, winch controls... gonna want activation in the cab, but a wired remote needs to be worked into the box somehow too.. :bow:

while I do like a quality welding cable over standard low strand auto bs stuff people buy.. i do kind of have a bit of a peeve with it as some in here know.... :haha: as a marine guy, the tinned high strand boat stuff is superior to welding cable IMO... doesn't quite bend as nice, but it's oil/grime durability, etc make it a win for me.. we'll see, I'm thinking a bulkhead is gonna be the way to go unfortunately, once i post pics, you'll see what i mean... :doah:




Man I haven't kept up enough. The shots of your truck with the grain elevators is STELLAR! Absolutely awesome. So cool. Man.

I hope you appreciate the fact that I'm going to rip off all your ideas when I do my crew



I've said it before... the fact YOU dig what I'm doing is all i need to know I'm doing sumfin right... props and thanks...... :bow:
 
here's kind of the layout i was thinking of... maybe a plug on the forward wall externally for a wired winch control... the back wall wouldn't be as good, with wheel splatter and such...


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think i have an idea for the cable movement too... the travel is 25".. if i center the last cable attachment on either sidewall, and go to a post at each rear corner of the shelf, each will only move about 12" from that center point...
 
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