BFG all terrains always measured short. The BFG MTs in the same size are way taller.
315s on the 7” steels would look good.
Oh and I bought from XDP before too. They have good prices!
CK5
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Ryoken's 96 Furd twofiddy
- Thread starter ryoken
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315s on the 7” steels would look good.
Oh and I bought from XDP before too. They have good prices!
I'm afraid of them!
actually after relooking at them, they seem decent... nothing off center or anything immediately scary.....
tho the thought of a drop bracket on a bigger lift would have to suck doing, especially with the 7.3...
the leaf spring bushings look WAY worse... all dryrotted and cracked.. i figure by just knocking the whole steering section off at the pitman arm and drop it with the axle.. not even pull the driveshaft.. as low as the brake lines let me.. hopefully that'll give me enough room to deal with the centerpin and rebuild the packs in place..... think i need to remove the factory band at the front...
these are the adjustable bushings i was looking at... seemed to have the widest range.. plus or minus 3.2
More Information for MOOG K80108
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well, with the 315's that's more whether i can fit 35 diameter... i mean it is 3/4" wider than the 33" 70series.. but at that point i'm more concerned with how tight, and goofy looking, a 35" might be..
the funny thing is, the 33"/70 series is 12.2 wide and calls for an 8", 9" or 10" rim... whereas the 35"/75 series is wider at 12.9.. but the rim recommendation is 8", 8.5" and 10"....
i'm generally a "push it" kind of builder.. if I'm gonna end up 35" and 4" lift, try to get em going early one.. but i think burning thru the 33"s in a couple yrs while i prep for the SAS swap, would be fine... simpler and may even look/perform better... i know my gear ratio will appreciate it..
I’d stick with the 33’s.
I like narrow so I’d go 285’s.
TTB was never known for even tire wear so a narrower tire will help with the edge wear.
Rotate. A lot. On my Ranger I had a setup that was known for good down travel but “meh” alignments. I rotated every 3,000 mile oil change and had good luck with it. Even with Swampers.
I like narrow so I’d go 285’s.
TTB was never known for even tire wear so a narrower tire will help with the edge wear.
Rotate. A lot. On my Ranger I had a setup that was known for good down travel but “meh” alignments. I rotated every 3,000 mile oil change and had good luck with it. Even with Swampers.
Could always go with 255/85/ 16s like you had on Mut.
I really like that size and have used up three sets on my old Duramax. Only shitty thing about them is not many manufacturers make that size and for me they where always hard to get. Had to wait on every set I ordered. I always bought Toyo M 55s, maybe not a problem with other brands or your area?
I really like that size and have used up three sets on my old Duramax. Only shitty thing about them is not many manufacturers make that size and for me they where always hard to get. Had to wait on every set I ordered. I always bought Toyo M 55s, maybe not a problem with other brands or your area?
| TIRE SIZE | LOAD / SPEED | LOAD ID | SIDEWALL | TREAD DEPTH (1/32") | PRODUCT CODE | APPROVED RIM WIDTH RANGE (IN.) | WEIGHT (LBS.) | INFLATED OVERALL DIAMETER (IN.) | INFLATED OVERALL WIDTH (IN.) | MAX LOAD SINGLE / DUAL (LBS.) | MAX PRESSURE SINGLE / DUAL (PSI) | UTQG | REVS PER MILE |
|---|
| LT235/85R16 | 120/116P | E | BSW | 18.4 | 360440 | 6.0-6.5-7.5 | 54 | 32.0 | 9.4 | 3042/2778 | 80/80 | N/A | 648 |
| LT245/75R16 | 120/116P | E | BSW | 18.4 | 360450 | 6.5-7.0-8.0 | 52 | 30.7 | 9.9 | 3042/2778 | 80/80 | N/A | 674 |
| LT255/85R16 (33X10.00R16) | 123/120P | E | BSW | 18.9 | 360460 | 6.5-7.0-8.0 | 61 | 33.5 | 10.2 | 3415/3085 | 80/80 | N/A | 620 |
| LT265/75R16 | 123P | E | BSW | 18.9 | 360320 | 7.0-7.5-8.0 | 61 | 31.8 | 10.8 | 3415/- | 80/- | N/A | 651 |
| LT285/75R16 (33X11.50R16) | 126P | E | BSW | 19.1 | 360280 | 7.5-8.0-9.0 | 67 | 33.0 | 11.6 | 3740/- | 80/- | N/A | 628 |
| LT305/70R16 (33.0X12.00R16) | 124P | E | BSW | 20.0 | 360110 | 8.0-9.0-9.5 | 70 | 33.0 | 12.2 | 3525/- | 65/- | N/A | 628 |
| LT315/75R16 (35X12.50R16) | 127Q | E | BSW | 21.0 | 360230 | 8.0-8.5-10.0 | 81 | 34.9 | 12.9 | 3860/- | 65/- | N/A | 595 |
| LT385/70R16 (38X14.50R16) | 130Q | D | BSW | 21.0 | 360480 | 10.0-11.0-12.0 | 101 | 37.7 | 15.6 |
My obs Ford I had looked good with a 4" lift and 315s. But it usually had 285s for towing. I would just go with the 285 and it will look great. I think that low lift and a 315 might look goofy like you were thinking.
the more I think about it, the more inclined i am to keep the 285/75's on it.. hopefully the Toyo's are a "truer" dimension and a solid 33".. when i do the lift, i'll swap up to 315/75's... plus, that will help a tad with tire cost too...
If you're sure that in ~2 years you're gonna go SAS I'd do the bare minimum (cheapest) to make it last that long safely, and not a penny more. You can get new wheels/tires when you do the SAS - and go to 17's.
yeah, that's why I wanna try and save the steering parts... it may be twice that time when i get to it.. Mutt's getting the dizzle first.. so more like 3, or 4... just in time for new tires..
i wish they had a 295/75 like they do in the mall terrains...
| LT295/75R16 | 7.5-8.0-10.0 | 33.4 | 11.6 |
but I'm deadset on running MT's...
i use to like my M/T treads but this last set of bfg muds in 255/85/16 has me turned off for daily use truck . they are to darn loud / chop to easy / ride like crap .
i was hoping to burn them off this summer but i cant stand them anymore so the next few weeks its time for some A/T tread tires .
and i have maybe 12k miles or 13k miles on these BFG muds .
i was hoping to burn them off this summer but i cant stand them anymore so the next few weeks its time for some A/T tread tires .
and i have maybe 12k miles or 13k miles on these BFG muds .
i use to like my M/T treads but this last set of bfg muds in 255/85/16 has me turned off for daily use truck . they are to darn loud / chop to easy / ride like crap .
i was hoping to burn them off this summer but i cant stand them anymore so the next few weeks its time for some A/T tread tires .
and i have maybe 12k miles or 13k miles on these BFG muds .
BFG's, just don't seem as good the last decade or so... mileage-wise, durability, etc... the malls on the rig currently don't have a ton of miles, albeit, TTB.... are only like 6 yrs old and got a bunch of dry rot in what's left of the tread...
I hear GREAT things about the toyo mt's.. i also hear their malls are really good too.. but I want something with a bit more gravel gripping snot this time...
and I'm not overly worried about tire noise, that's what Powerstrokes and stereos are made for..
plus I have heard they are pretty darn quiet.. we'll see....
Stoked I found something fugged up!
Finally took a REAL peak at the clutch and realized the right bushings where fugged. Going to do a rod end mod on the end of the master rod to the clutch swing arm to replace the bushing there that is destroyed... But also the 2 right, white, upper shaft ones are slopping around... That may be a bit more involved... But you can buy a kit...
It's gotten a tad worse which is making the neutral safety switch not trigger sometimes... Hopefully I can get the parts by next weekend...
Oh, and I was right, that window motor jeffs sent me was wrong...that's twice I've gotten fugged by them now..... But apparently you can run a ds one in there.. it bolts up, just the motor faces down, not up... just needed to reroute the pigtail.. windows working...
Finally took a REAL peak at the clutch and realized the right bushings where fugged. Going to do a rod end mod on the end of the master rod to the clutch swing arm to replace the bushing there that is destroyed... But also the 2 right, white, upper shaft ones are slopping around... That may be a bit more involved... But you can buy a kit...
It's gotten a tad worse which is making the neutral safety switch not trigger sometimes... Hopefully I can get the parts by next weekend...
Oh, and I was right, that window motor jeffs sent me was wrong...that's twice I've gotten fugged by them now..... But apparently you can run a ds one in there.. it bolts up, just the motor faces down, not up... just needed to reroute the pigtail.. windows working...
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just ordered the main shaft bushing kit.. and the rod end mod.. also a new swing arm cuz it needs to cut new splines for the new arm position..
the upper shaft is much less the culprit here.. BUT.. the job looks WAY more involved.. it looks like you MAY have to pull the pedal assembly to do that.. meaning not only the hydro master, but the brake booster/master cylinder also needs to come off... possibly the e-brake pedal too...
not sure how i feel about a u-joint in the steering shaft right under the dash.. cuz that'd prolly need to be undone too...
tomorrow is finish the door.. black handle, lube reg/track, install door panel... than the 3 shocks and eyeball the front end.. possibly clean up some rust up front........
the upper shaft is much less the culprit here.. BUT.. the job looks WAY more involved.. it looks like you MAY have to pull the pedal assembly to do that.. meaning not only the hydro master, but the brake booster/master cylinder also needs to come off... possibly the e-brake pedal too...
not sure how i feel about a u-joint in the steering shaft right under the dash.. cuz that'd prolly need to be undone too...
tomorrow is finish the door.. black handle, lube reg/track, install door panel... than the 3 shocks and eyeball the front end.. possibly clean up some rust up front........
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this is the major culprit.. prolly a 1/4" of movement..
that black bushing is toast... but a new one will be fugged in 6 months most say.. thats the rod end mod... you chop that master rod that goes thru the neutral safety switch right before the round part... them you slip a smooth bored heim over it... you mod the new swing arm, to the left for the heim... than seat it back on the upper main shaft, cutting new splines.... the rod end stays in tension on the end of the rod.. no threads...
the prob lies in this shot.. the end of the white upper shaft bushing that rides thru the bracket is wasted.. so that actually gets a bit of movement too... much less severe... but i don't want it to now be getting shredded with the new heim mod tightening up the rest.....
not sure if it can be done with the bracket in place.. not a lot of shifting room up there... booster and master may need to come out..
and here's the goofy u-joint column dealio....
I haven't even bothered to figure out what that goofy steering reluctor type deal is yet.... tho while i'm in here i wouldn't mind nixing the open door bell... beyond annoying...
that black bushing is toast... but a new one will be fugged in 6 months most say.. thats the rod end mod... you chop that master rod that goes thru the neutral safety switch right before the round part... them you slip a smooth bored heim over it... you mod the new swing arm, to the left for the heim... than seat it back on the upper main shaft, cutting new splines.... the rod end stays in tension on the end of the rod.. no threads...
the prob lies in this shot.. the end of the white upper shaft bushing that rides thru the bracket is wasted.. so that actually gets a bit of movement too... much less severe... but i don't want it to now be getting shredded with the new heim mod tightening up the rest.....
not sure if it can be done with the bracket in place.. not a lot of shifting room up there... booster and master may need to come out..
and here's the goofy u-joint column dealio....
I haven't even bothered to figure out what that goofy steering reluctor type deal is yet.... tho while i'm in here i wouldn't mind nixing the open door bell... beyond annoying...
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FTR.. don't think for a second, 
, I wont bypass that NS switch.. sh*ts for sissys with a life.. 
it's kind of why I went in there in the first place 
, got a jumper with it's name on it!
, I wont bypass that NS switch.. sh*ts for sissys with a life.. it's kind of why I went in there in the first place , got a jumper with it's name on it!
You did say you weren't real sure about the clutch feel on it.. Guess you were right. Good find. Wonder if someone makes a brass bushing that could be put in there rather than a rod-end. Brass may be more trouble free in the long run... maybe...
my understanding is the rod end is an end-all fix for it... last forever solution... bit more involved than just replacing the plastic bushing fo sure tho..
as is the norm, didn't get nearly as much done today as I wanted, but it was a successful weekend, for 1.5 days.... ps door is done.. new black handle, window works, etc... Kai digs it...
got the ps rear shock mount/shock done , frame cleaned up and primed/painted... plus I banged out all the yardwork, so I'm good a few weeks on that.....
didn't touch the front 2, but I'll bang that out next weekend...
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Not 100% sure but I think that reluctor wheel thingy is maybe for the steering wheel lock when you remove the key.
That was my guess also.
