Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

[Fordum]

Oh, OK, didn't recognize them.
Given the amount of water you seem to be getting, I hope the gel will last long enough to be practical.
Be sure to put them after the other removing parts, the more water they see, the shorter they will last.

And, make sure that there is some kind of filter after them to catch any "fines" that might break off of them.

When they stop working, you can reactivate the gel in an oven..
Put it in a vented oven at about 240 for 3 or 4 hours, and they should be ready to use after they cool.
Seal them up after the oven until you are ready to use them.

Also, make sure the valves are turned off so they cannot see the outside air when you are not using them.

 

[Chief Brody]

I figure to put one right after my black piping and water seperator...and then I need to mount one on something portable so I can put it at the end of a 25' or 50' hose right before my tools...I have to run a long hose from the garage to the driveway...this is where a lot of water is created apparently...
I may build something that has the dryer mounted on one side and a hose reel on the other....

then again...an array of 3 in a row right after the black pipe would probably significantly dry the air...for a while...they will also double as "drops" won't they?

 

[British Slave]

Remember this...hot air absorbs more water. The closer you are to the compressor, the more difficult is will be to remove the moisture. The further away from the compressor, the cooler the air and more water caan be removed.

 

[Chief Brody]

Remember this...hot air absorbs more water. The closer you are to the compressor, the more difficult is will be to remove the moisture. The further away from the compressor, the cooler the air and more water caan be removed.

I would like to have more pipes but can't afford it...if I locate one after m piping and then one at the end hopefully that will do it...
...I can't use my sanders at all right now...
I talked to HF today, looks like I am getting 3 of them...

 

[Chief Brody]

I got 3 of the dryers...I hooked up two of them...with 25 feet of hose between the compressor and the dryers...
I didn't even get the first tank of air filled and I was releasing water out of the first one after a minute of running the DA.

The compressor tank was hot enough that I couldn't touch it....the black pipe was also...the hose was real warm and the first dryer was too....

I don't think I am going to be able to use the compressor until it gets down in the 70's around here...

I don't know what else to do...I can't afford an air conditioned dryer...and I can't stop the water...evrything worked great in April, but now it doesn't...

I wish they made an electric DA

 

[ryoken]

you should have asked me that months ago, I've been recommending em in here for yrs to guys.. Porter Cable makes em, been using em for 20+ yrs in the boat yards.. about $150..


http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/...googlebase&cvsfa=63&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=3736393235

 

[Chief Brody]

you should have asked me that months ago, I've been recommending em in here for yrs to guys.. Porter Cable makes em, been using em for 20+ yrs in the boat yards.. about $150..


http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/...googlebase&cvsfa=63&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=3736393235

Do you use the 5" or did you put a 6" kit on it?

 

[ryoken]

6" on all DA stuff...

 

[Chief Brody]

Can't find the 6" kit....found this

http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Porter-Cable-7346-6-Variable-Speed-Right-Angle-Random-Orbit-Sander/221397/Cat/174

 

[ryoken]

hmmmm, that must be a new model.. the one i posted is the one we've all used forever.. the body on that one you posted is different.. tho the specs are better.. the pads are all interchangable... you could spin the one off your air DA and put it on them...

 

[Chief Brody]

Actually I did find a backing pad and counterweight...do you use hook & Loop or adhesive back?

http://www.coastaltool.com/a/port/pads.htm

 

[ryoken]

i run adhesive back on DA's...... the paper ends up a bit easier to get and sometimes cheaper...

 

[Chief Brody]

OK...what gives? $129 at Lowes?

PORTER-CABLE 6" Variable-Speed Random Orbit Sander with Polishing Pad

Item #: 137715 | Model #:7346SP

5 / 5




Rating Snapshot 5 stars











$129.00

 

[ryoken]

well, being mine is a 10 yr old version of what i posted, i figured i'd bring myself up to speed on what they had out.. if you go to porter cables site, all the DA's are now that body style you posted... and the 6" is #7346

now i'm not sure what lowes "sp" designation is at the end of the part.. it appears on quite a few on a google shopping.. there is are also some with an "r" designation at the end which are reconditioned ones...


http://www.google.com/search?q=port...gc.r_pw.&fp=638e4ae79ecbd0fc&biw=1584&bih=729

 

[Chief Brody]

now i'm not sure what lowes "sp" designation is at the end of the part..

I think the "sp" means sander/polisher because Lowes kit gives you the polishing disk also....

 

[ryoken]

there ya go.... stripped many a vehicle with mine...

 

[Chief Brody]

So one of these will do everything the pneumatic DA will do except wet sand?

 

[ryoken]

no DA will wetsand.. wet/dry paper isn't available for that..

I've wetsanded with electric palm sanders tons tho using standard 8 x 11 wet/dry paper qrtered, carefully obviously..

 

[ryoken]

also just for general info, for average car bodywork, your never really wetsanding below 220 to 180-ish... glazing putty for reprime.. then wetsanding for paint prep with 320 to 600 depending on paint...

 

[ryoken]

actually i correct myself, it is available in hook it.... not necessary tho.. don't overthink this and don't plan on using a DA on anything after priming really... I will repeat, if you dont know what your doing with a DA, you can cause yourself problems. i've seen people ruin jobs with DA's... you can do an initial light cut of primer with it to stepsave and knock the shine off.. but to do proper paint prep you must crossblock by hand...