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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Instead of starting on the quarter panels tomorrow, I am going back to those yards early in the morning to look for two good, or good enough fenders if I can find some before they are gone.
At what level of condition do you go...ehh...this really isn't worth it?
:dunno:

How much bodywork should I be willing to do to be able to get a real oem fender?
 
small dents and rust are always repairable.. crashes and rot, not so much...
 
small dents and rust are always repairable.. crashes and rot, not so much...

Hate to tease ya'll but "that taxidermy man...he gonna have a heart attack when he see what I brung 'im"....

I'll give you a clue...I found the most perfect 1979 drivers side fender that would ever believe existed on a parts yard...don't have time for pics right now, i am headed out the 2nd yard to try to find a passenger side. :woot:
 
I figure I'm paying 1500 to 2 g's for the rust-free Nevada aspect on my CC... the cost to ship, give or take..

but in reality I'm actually making money! the value of a rotfree body in the NE is eleventy thousand, so it's a no-brainer! :zombie8: :woot: :whistle: :doah::screwy:
 
I figure I'm paying 1500 to 2 g's for the rust-free Nevada aspect on my CC... the cost to ship, give or take..

but in reality I'm actually making money! the value of a rotfree body in the NE is eleventy thousand, so it's a no-brainer! :zombie8: :woot: :whistle: :doah::screwy:
:waytogo:
Agreed, even though mine isn't as clean as yours is...the fact that there is a solid (surface rust) underbody is amazing for a 35 yr old truck in MI.
And the shipping price (me driving it) of 1K to get it home was priceless.
 
I just decided that the aftermarket fenders were just crap....and no truck of mine is going to wear bad fitting crap.
On the quarters, there is just no choice...they DO NOT EXIST in the part yards...

Pictures coming...I found a passenger side...nearly killed myself removing it...it came off a weird Sierra Special K30 Camper...

I am pretty sure it is original...it almost looks too clean to be an original...even if it isn't original it was most likely replaced in the 80's....I dunno, you guys can tell me for sure.
 
OK...here's the prize...I know the rust on the inside is pretty orange, but it does not go deep...in fact, I think sand blasting won't even leave any pits

The outside has some specs of some mold kind of stuff but that isn't rust..some is red mud still stuck on...gotta wash it with soap.outside is perfect...I took the trim off to see the lip...that's when my jaw dropped...it is clean!


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nice score.... good sharkin there...

i ended up with an immaculate pair of OEM's for $200 off CL...

that I preceded to dissect....
 
They look good! :thumb:
Do you mind saying how much you had to pay for them.

I had to pay $100 for brown beauty and removed it myself.
I paid $40 for the red one and removed it myself.

Different parts yards...the brown one came from a truck yard where the guy has better quality and doesn't let customers beat up his stuff.

THe red one came from a field yard where the guy doesn't care how you tear stuff out. There was a beautiful 1974 Cheyenne that they had cut the cab off and they destroyed those beautiful pristine fenders...the doors, they handled with care and are still there.
 
Nice fenders. I link the root beer (cordova brown) on white. My K5 is all cordova brown. I just learned that the paint is metalic. The brown helps hide the rust.
 
Somebody remind me...can a good man sandblast fenders without warping them?:dunno:
 
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