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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Overview Gallery Discussion
wazzabie said:
Maybe the door is bad?
Click to expand...

it very well may be...and it could also be the hinge adjustments....or maybe the sail is off a little...I don't know...can't find "normal"

I do know that from photos of when I first got it, there were issues with the door alignments on both sides...it just wasn't as noticeable when it had paint...I definitely have it all out of whack now...

If I could ever get the door to mirror the B Pillar I would have it solved...and the B Pillar has not moved...it is where it was....

The number one issue is that the door bottom needs to be pulled outward in order to line up with the B Pillar, but when I do that I get a 1 1/2" gap between the door bottom and the rocker....way too big of a gap at bottom and then the sail at the top bangs the windshield frame way before the door even closes....:dunno:
 
I know this might sound stupid, and I really don't want to sent this thread over there, but check out the blueprints in the forum background.
They are not clear enough on my computer to use as is, but they came from somewhere.
Check with........Darn it, brain fart. ColoradoK5, cool beans, can't remember his name......

See if he can send you a clean copy and it might have some references you can go by.
Getting the fender to match the door is no good if the door is wrong. You absolutely must have a good reference point to measure from.

Can't measure from the ground obviously, probably somewhere on the frame.
 
Chief, have you done anything with the body mount shims yet? I may have missed that part, but I have similar issues with mine and I wonder if you have similar shims that control door gaps like the first gen convertibles. I'm able to adjust the body lines by 1/4" easily just by adding in 1/4" of shims.
 
Cheif, In this pic, is the quarter pressed tight against the entire B pillar? When you peak in from the back, you say there appears to be no gaps correct? This would indicate that the quarter is situated properly and that the problem in fact lies with the door.

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Just to think out loud here, could you get on craigslist and find a cheap chevy door and try bolting it in place of yours and see how it looks? This would tell quick fast if the door was the problem or not. Then, after your test fit, put the door back on CL for the same $$ you paid for it. This would get you a free answer as to whether the problem is with the quarter/B pillar or the door being whacked.
 
Chief, i sent you a PM. I would like to toss you an offer. I would be willing to go cut the quarters off a blazer on craigslist here in portland and send them to you. Only cost to you would be whatever the guy wnats for the quarters and the shipping. Nothing for my time. I just want you to get a good set of quarters to work with! I would cut off the whole shebangs. B pillars and all all the way back to the tail pan. Let me know if your interested. Might not be feasible but i wanted to offer it to you anyway.

EDIT: this guy would most likely have a set. He buys and parts chevys for a living...

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/2979679621.html

Seriously, search the phone number listed in the add. Its ridiculous.
 
I thought he was having the same issue with his original quarter that was on the truck? Not sure that he would gain anything by buying a third set of quarters... Chief, do you have a pic of the quarter on with the door open, did you ever get it to follow the B pillar correctly? I'm wondering if the b pillar and rocker are in the correct positions, maybe this thing was wrecked and repaired years ago incorrectly? Isn't this the same side that the tail pan was messed up on and the quarter to tailgate gaps were all screwed up when you started? How is the passenger side, can you take measurements and compare to see if they even close to square? I know you have sandblasted much of the truck, is there any obvious repair work in this area? I'll agree with some of the others, it does look like the replacement quarter is bulged out from too much material (length top to bottom) but before I'd go cutting anything on a good panel I'd verify what your working with to mount it to... Just seems like maybe you've been trying to align thing to something that isn't necessarily where it needs to be? I'm no expert, but I am anxiously waiting to see how you fix it, and I have no doubt this thing will be awesome when done! Hang in there man!
 
bp71k5 said:
Chief, have you done anything with the body mount shims yet? I may have missed that part, but I have similar issues with mine and I wonder if you have similar shims that control door gaps like the first gen convertibles. I'm able to adjust the body lines by 1/4" easily just by adding in 1/4" of shims.
Click to expand...

Just the usual shims and I am not real sure if you can or are supposed to put shims behind the door hinge to cowl location.
 
y5mgisi said:
Cheif, In this pic, is the quarter pressed tight against the entire B pillar? When you peak in from the back, you say there appears to be no gaps correct? This would indicate that the quarter is situated properly and that the problem in fact lies with the door.
Click to expand...


Yes it does appear to be tight against the pillar from what I can see from behind and underneath...certainly the area that looks bulged out is flat against it, I can definitely see that part. Those sheet metal screws are tight...

There may be a good door in the parts yard...it would have a full window frame, but at least I could check it...don't know how much they get for doors...
 
smier said:
I thought he was having the same issue with his original quarter that was on the truck? Not sure that he would gain anything by buying a third set of quarters... Chief, do you have a pic of the quarter on with the door open, did you ever get it to follow the B pillar correctly? I'm wondering if the b pillar and rocker are in the correct positions, maybe this thing was wrecked and repaired years ago incorrectly? Isn't this the same side that the tail pan was messed up on and the quarter to tailgate gaps were all screwed up when you started? How is the passenger side, can you take measurements and compare to see if they even close to square? I know you have sandblasted much of the truck, is there any obvious repair work in this area?!
Click to expand...

No obvious repair work to the rocker area...only the quarter panel and tailpan were messed with and it wasn't that bad...I am not even sure that the quarter was changed because of a wreck...it may have just been rusty.
 
Chief Brody said:

Just the usual shims and I am not real sure if you can or are supposed to put shims behind the door hinge to cowl location.
Click to expand...

I meant the body mount shims. On a 69-72, the bodymount shims are used to open or close the door-quarterpanel gap. I was just curious if similar shims exist for the 73-75.
 
bp71k5 said:
I meant the body mount shims. On a 69-72, the bodymount shims are used to open or close the door-quarterpanel gap. I was just curious if similar shims exist for the 73-75.
Click to expand...

Not that I am aware of...the door jamb/rocker/B Pillar are all one piece welded together...there is no movement there or place for a shim...:dunno:
 
Chief Brody said:
Not that I am aware of...the door jamb/rocker/B Pillar are all one piece welded together...there is no movement there or place for a shim...:dunno:
Click to expand...
He's talking about shims on the body mounts under the cab to make it arch and open up the gap on top.
Never thought of this but now I understand what that was when I parted some trucks, some square 1/4" shims on top of the body mounts.:doah:
 
imiceman44 said:
He's talking about shims on the body mounts under the cab to make it arch and open up the gap on top.
Never thought of this but now I understand what that was when I parted some trucks, some square 1/4" shims on top of the body mounts.:doah:
Click to expand...
ahhhhhhhh.....I see....

Talked to a older local body guy who still remembers the 1974 K5...said if worse comes to worse I can haul it in and he will have a look at it...

He said they usually weld in "round rod" and grind it down to make nice tight body lines on old chevy trucks....

What exactly is "round rod"...:dunno:
 
Solid steel rod ranging from 1/8" to 2" body guys use 1/4"-1/8"-3/16" to fill space or help when resectioning roofline on chops or and other crazy bod mods. It is mild steel and easy to form, bend, weld, or to use as guide lines for the body mods. We use it at the shop to help get or make radius' for projects, and build skeletons for artist sculpures. That and TIG rod.
 
In your case that may or may not work. Usually folks use that method if all the gaps are good except one that has like a 3/8" gap. They would weld the rod into the edge of the door on that side and then hide it with weld and/or bondo. Not a bad method really but its not exactly preferred. If done right you never know it was done.
 
Ok so it turns out its opposite of the rod filler method but the principle is the same. Just opposite.

 
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y5mgisi said:
Ok so it turns out its opposite of the rod filler method but the principle is the same. Just opposite.

Click to expand...

That's a neat trick! Don't think I could do it...but still a neat trick...
 
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