The Rattlecan was the NASON 5500ib...I don't have anything else to compare it to...if I could see a swatch of the same color in another grade I would have something to go by...my glovebox lid is painted with that spray can...
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
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The Rattlecan was the NASON 5500ib...I don't have anything else to compare it to...if I could see a swatch of the same color in another grade I would have something to go by...my glovebox lid is painted with that spray can...
nothing out of the ordinary tint-wise.. iirc, that's pint measurements...
nothing unexpected like blue or something.. which you will find on occasion.. ocre, yellow, white and black standards for a color of that nature...
nothing unexpected like blue or something.. which you will find on occasion.. ocre, yellow, white and black standards for a color of that nature...
I was happy with the color of the rattlecan SprayBase they made for me...the thing I wasn't happy with is how soft the SEM Clearcoat is...
cuz it's uncatalyzed....
I'm betting that volvo would be fine.. your shooting a whole vehicle, not trying to match/blend original paint.. you'll never notice any perceived differences..
I'm betting that volvo would be fine.. your shooting a whole vehicle, not trying to match/blend original paint.. you'll never notice any perceived differences..
That's the one that is $600 a gallon...
just get the nason
I am getting more confirmation that the Nason 465-00 is the old dupont chromaclear , it is a 2:1 clear/hardener ratio and also takes a 20% reduction
Which of these Nutserts do I need for my mirrors?
The holes in the door are 1/4 inch, so the o.d. of the nutsert has to be 1/4" also...but which one should I get?
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Nutserts_s/141.htm
The holes in the door are 1/4 inch, so the o.d. of the nutsert has to be 1/4" also...but which one should I get?
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Nutserts_s/141.htm
I didn't see any that I feel will work on the thin sheet metal of your door.
I like to make a steel backing plate inside the door, bolted or riveted to some structure inside the door, and have the nut welded to it.
If I am ever going to have mirrors on a door, it's how I will do it.
just make backing plates out of 2" x 2" x 1/8 steel with nuts welded to the backside... have everything in primers, install mirrors with a dollup of seam sealer on the backing plate... when seamsealer is dry, remove mirror and now the plate is glued to door.. install bolt when painting...
Sounds economical...anybody know what kind of bolts are correct for the mirrors, hat kind of head?...I didn't see the bolts on these yard mirrors although one of them had a sheet metal screw and a drywall anchor
That would work too, but some day when you really don't feel like opening up the door, you remove the mirror to change it and the plate falls in the door.
That is why I prefer having it attached to something inside the door.
That would work too, but some day when you really don't feel like opening up the door, you remove the mirror to change it and the plate falls in the door.
That is why I prefer having it attached to something inside the door.
It's a tough place to get a welder into...
rivet gun, or even just a screw driver.
Do these look correct for my mirrors?
I think it all depends on what kinf of inserts you use.
Do these look correct for my mirrors?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Nope
I wish I knew where my old truck was, I'd go and take a picture of the driver's side mirror.
I ripped it off on some thick vines many years ago. Pulled the Nutserts right out through the sheet metal.
The mirror was one of the wide swingaway type on a flat bar. It had a chrome plate that mounted on the door with the mirror bar pivoting on it.
I could not find any larger nutserts. I ground the edges of the holes down flat where they had bulged out when the serts pulled through.
Got a flat steel plate about 1/4 inch thick, and a couple of inches wide, long enough to reach past the two holes.
Drilled and tapped two holes to match the holes in the mirror mount.
Then, drilled and tapped two smaller holes between them. Then drilled two holes in the door aligned with those two.
Took the door panel off, and slid the plate up behind the two holes, and put in two screws in the smaller holes to hold the plate in position.
Then put the mirror on, and screwed the original screws into the plate.
Since I did not care about the looks, I used round head stove bolts to hold the plate in place.
They stuck up too high for the mirror mount to sit flush on the door. I drilled two clearance holes in the mirror plate for the bolt heads to come through.
That way, I could unbolt the mirror and the plate would stay in place since the bolts that held it on were not through the mirror plate.
Had I cared, I would have used countersunk heads, and maybe drilled a couple of blind recesses behind the mirror plate for clearance.
In fact, the bolt heads did not come all the way through the mirror plate. I could have made those holes blind from the back side, but it was easier to just drill all the way through.
If the nutserts are bad on yours, I would consider doing something like that. If there is enough cover to hide the back plate holding bolt heads, no one will ever be able to tell.
I could have used just one screw in the middle, and put a touch of glue to keep the plate from possibly spinning until the main bolts were in place, but I was on a roll, so I drilled and tapped two.
I ripped it off on some thick vines many years ago. Pulled the Nutserts right out through the sheet metal.
The mirror was one of the wide swingaway type on a flat bar. It had a chrome plate that mounted on the door with the mirror bar pivoting on it.
I could not find any larger nutserts. I ground the edges of the holes down flat where they had bulged out when the serts pulled through.
Got a flat steel plate about 1/4 inch thick, and a couple of inches wide, long enough to reach past the two holes.
Drilled and tapped two holes to match the holes in the mirror mount.
Then, drilled and tapped two smaller holes between them. Then drilled two holes in the door aligned with those two.
Took the door panel off, and slid the plate up behind the two holes, and put in two screws in the smaller holes to hold the plate in position.
Then put the mirror on, and screwed the original screws into the plate.
Since I did not care about the looks, I used round head stove bolts to hold the plate in place.
They stuck up too high for the mirror mount to sit flush on the door. I drilled two clearance holes in the mirror plate for the bolt heads to come through.
That way, I could unbolt the mirror and the plate would stay in place since the bolts that held it on were not through the mirror plate.
Had I cared, I would have used countersunk heads, and maybe drilled a couple of blind recesses behind the mirror plate for clearance.
In fact, the bolt heads did not come all the way through the mirror plate. I could have made those holes blind from the back side, but it was easier to just drill all the way through.
If the nutserts are bad on yours, I would consider doing something like that. If there is enough cover to hide the back plate holding bolt heads, no one will ever be able to tell.
I could have used just one screw in the middle, and put a touch of glue to keep the plate from possibly spinning until the main bolts were in place, but I was on a roll, so I drilled and tapped two.
Goals for this weekend are:
Raise the passenger quarter and fix the gap
Finish bodywork on door
get both fenders in primer
get radiator core in primer
get tailgate completely in primer
essentially I hope to have the entire Blazer and pieces in primer
it all hinges on how fast the fixing the gap goes...
and why do they insist on putting 4 or 5 stickers on the interior fender skirts...gotta get that crap off before I can prime em...
Raise the passenger quarter and fix the gap
Finish bodywork on door
get both fenders in primer
get radiator core in primer
get tailgate completely in primer
essentially I hope to have the entire Blazer and pieces in primer
it all hinges on how fast the fixing the gap goes...
and why do they insist on putting 4 or 5 stickers on the interior fender skirts...gotta get that crap off before I can prime em...
These are factory bolts.
