Vetteracerx
1/2 ton status
Your struggle makes me want to go outside and punch my truck!!! Good job man. I have read the whole thread. 
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
OK...another day...I took the fender off...pounded the living crap out of the inside of the fender down near the bottom.
Put it back on only bolting the bottom rear after I clamped it tight.
I got it all the way flush with the rocker.
I then pushed the top over the cowl and saw that I now need shims...three to be exact...it had not needed them before but in my mind that meant the fender was "stretched" taller.
I hoped it had stretched out all of it, but it didn't.
This is as good as I can get it, and I have to live with it or get another fender.
It actually looks worse in the photo because the "lip" of the fender is shiny where I had "trimmed it out" with base and clear...so that exposed edge catches all the flash of the camera...to make it worse the door still has some paint on its front edge which creates a huge contrast and makes it look worse.
My thought is that it will be much less noticable when everything is the same color...
What do you think? Live with it, or get another fender?
Put it back on only bolting the bottom rear after I clamped it tight.
I got it all the way flush with the rocker.
I then pushed the top over the cowl and saw that I now need shims...three to be exact...it had not needed them before but in my mind that meant the fender was "stretched" taller.
I hoped it had stretched out all of it, but it didn't.
This is as good as I can get it, and I have to live with it or get another fender.
It actually looks worse in the photo because the "lip" of the fender is shiny where I had "trimmed it out" with base and clear...so that exposed edge catches all the flash of the camera...to make it worse the door still has some paint on its front edge which creates a huge contrast and makes it look worse.
My thought is that it will be much less noticable when everything is the same color...
What do you think? Live with it, or get another fender?
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couple shims is no big.. they often have shims at the top cowl bolt....
and it's better to have the fender out a c*nthair, than in...
and it's better to have the fender out a c*nthair, than in...
that's not horrible.. it almost looks like the bottom 6"s of the door corner is out a bit.. the rocker is even with the middle... I bet if you LIGHLTY drove that corner in with a block of wood/body hammer/yada, and slid the bottom of the door out just a tad it would look awesome.. but what you have isn't horrible, and like ya said, with full paint, it would look vastly better more than likely...
did you patch that corner?
I was going to try to push that door corner in with my hand, but I didn't want to get in a rush.
The last time I bent a corner with a wood block I tore the metal and had to weld the new tear.
I want to be very careful with it.
any tips on bending that? Would warming it up help any? It's a bit tedious bending a place you welded....I figure I can give the the "CPR" with my hands and maybe get it where it needs to be without pounding on it with a hammer...
it's up to you... that's what it looks like to me..... how's that corner sand? would a longboard start blowing thru the corner way before 6 to 8"s back on the door? that's your major indicator of what I said... I'd longboard any excessive mud off it and see if you can bring it down some...
than if it's metal, I would take a 2x4, maybe 12" to 18" long, right above the rocker, right corner at the door cornerand just kinda lay my knee into it, steady, even pressure... if it cracks some mud, so be it, that's an easy fix...
or..... you could let it fly! your call....
than if it's metal, I would take a 2x4, maybe 12" to 18" long, right above the rocker, right corner at the door cornerand just kinda lay my knee into it, steady, even pressure... if it cracks some mud, so be it, that's an easy fix...
or..... you could let it fly! your call....
it's up to you... that's what it looks like to me..... how's that corner sand? would a longboard start blowing thru the corner way before 6 to 8"s back on the door? that's your major indicator of what I said... I'd longboard any excessive mud off it and see if you can bring it down some...
than if it's metal, I would take a 2x4, maybe 12" to 18" long, right above the rocker, right corner at the door cornerand just kinda lay my knee into it, steady, even pressure... if it cracks some mud, so be it, that's an easy fix...
or..... you could let it fly! your call....
No...I think you are right...if I can get that corner in then I can move the door out just a little...even a little would almost cut that "bow" in half...might even get all of it.
just remember to leave a pivot bolt on the top hinge.... even if you feel like leaving the fender on and pulling the bottom out some to work on it, scribe the top hinge position, loosen all but the one, move bottom out, tighten back up, work on, than move in...
ok...so I couldn't wait...went out there with a piece of 2x4 and a long 2x4 and made a fulcrum...pushed that corner in even. Yep..I cracked some filler but like you said...easy enough fix.
It didn't go inward as far as I thought but it was enough that I slid the bottom of the door maybe 1/16"...which did cut the bow in half.
It's not that noticeable at all now...
I could spend a lot of time working the door bottom but I am not sure I want to.
The rear corner I patched too...and it comes out a little as well...so both the front and rear could be worked maybe another 1/16 to 1/8"
For me, that's rough working because it kills my rotator cuff...but I will think about it probably next time it isn't raining and I can get it outside where I got room.
It didn't go inward as far as I thought but it was enough that I slid the bottom of the door maybe 1/16"...which did cut the bow in half.
It's not that noticeable at all now...
I could spend a lot of time working the door bottom but I am not sure I want to.
The rear corner I patched too...and it comes out a little as well...so both the front and rear could be worked maybe another 1/16 to 1/8"
For me, that's rough working because it kills my rotator cuff...but I will think about it probably next time it isn't raining and I can get it outside where I got room.
keep in mind, running the longboard over it shows in short order, area's that are high.... like I said, if you longboard, and you have a shiny spot inwards along the bottom from the front or back, that isn't getting hit with the longboard, you'll know... I have a good metal yardstick that I use as a guide too, to indicate problem areas to me...
I longboarded the bottom when I had the door off...but it still ended up like this
not sure how...
well, your just double checking it now... it's getting there, keep it up...
hopefully the hood will go easy peezy...
hopefully the hood will go easy peezy...
do welded spots curl over a period of time or if they are going to do it do they do it immediately?
ya lost me.. curl?
Is that what happened to my corners? Did the heat from the welding make them un-straight? Or did I just not get them straight when I did the finish work?
