Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

[ryoken]

welding the patches in may have distorted the metal.. but yeah, that happens immediately if it happens..... cold wet rag handy when welding sheetmetal is often advisable... or welding clay... that's why you bounce around as much as possible with sheetmetal to keep too much heat from one area....

it also may just have been a function of installing an inner, and outer patch too, moreso than heat warping...

you should have seen it tho when longboardjng the mud.... hitting metal heavy in that 4" square corner and a lower spot inward...

either way, your on the right track...

 

[Chief Brody]

Pulled out of the garage today and got the come-a-long and chain attached to the big oak tree and it started raining and hasn't stopped since...supposed to rain tomorrow too...

I did stay in the rain long enough to "pull" the drivers side rear quarter outward a bit and finally got the tailgate gap I wanted on that side.

I pushed a little on the passenger side door got it to go in a little more...I can't move it any more or the bottom of the door won't be even with the quarter panel....so it's kind riding in that "best it is going to fit" zone.

Since it was raining I took my painted 15 x 6" wheels and had NTB take the tires off the old 15 x 5.5" powder coated wheels.

On the way to the tire store I got 90* sideways making a small turn. I decided to have new tires put on the ranger. I am a little disappointed in how little life I got out of the BFG All Terrains TKO...
They didn't have them in 235/15 so I had them put on BFG Radial TA 255/70/15 on.

They don't look as good as the All Terrains...but it's only a Ranger after all....

 

[lampltr]

Hey yall... Oh yeah!! Now Discovery tele.. Worlds Toughest Drive...

 

[Chief Brody]

I forgot....can I put dynaglas on top of dynaglas or do I have to dig it back down to bare metal.
I am sanding down the jamb / quarter and I have some low spots in the filler.

 

[ryoken]

just rough the areas up with the grinder, no shine...

 

[Chief Brody]

just rough the areas up with the grinder, no shine...

Do I need to finish this with Dynaglas or can I switch to Rage Gold for the final layer?

 

[ryoken]

you can run gold, just keep it thin...

 

[Chief Brody]

you can run gold, just keep it thin...

I went ahead and did the second layer buildup with Dynaglas.

It is sort of a hack, but I taped off the door and the quarter and layed a band down from top to bottom.

I will longboard most of that off but in one area in may be the thickness of a paint stick...is that bad?

 

[ryoken]

should be fine...

 

[Chief Brody]

should be fine...

I really hated to do it that way, but I got no more play in the door.

I measured some more and found that the rocker panel is bowed...it sticks out in the middle and draws in on each end. So all of it wasn't my door...some of it, but not all of it.

So you think 1/8" of Duraglas feathered down to flush over a foot or so would hold up?

 

[ryoken]

just don't bash it...

 

[Chief Brody]

OK...so I am a little embarassed about this...but I think I welded myself into a corner.

I don't know any other way than filler to get that top even....I don't mean the gap you see in the first pic...I mean the top outside of door to outside of quarter panel.

You can see where I smeared a band of Duraglas from top to bottom and longboarded it even with the door.

It is up top where the filler is 1/8" thick...and I need to smooth it back to even.

Got a lot more work to do to that gap.

Is there a better way than filler at this point?

 

[ryoken]

so, is it the top 6" of the door there that is "out" further than the qrter? thus why you need so much on the qrter? how far down does the in/out of the door go to get decent?


and, just so I know it's been said... I'm pretty certain, I've expressed this at least once in this thread... something I'm noticing, there is some layering on previous coatings... duraglass on green zinc and fill prime, etc..

this can lead to a bad habit of trying to keep too dainty some times..

proper bodywork is about adhesion...

if you look at a dent on a car and think your gonna use some filler? grind a vastly larger area than you think you need.. it's a much more proper featheredge if it's just paint to the raw steel, as opposed to mud leading directly into the paint edge... or worse, on it.. which, you may have a bit of going on...

not a surefire fail thing, just the percentage gig...

 

[Chief Brody]

so, is it the top 6" of the door there that is "out" further than the qrter? thus why you need so much on the qrter? how far down does the in/out of the door go to get decent?

yep...it's here where the red line is...actually I made the red line to long at the bottom....the door gap is perfect in the curve above the bodyline.

 

[Chief Brody]

and, just so I know it's been said... I'm pretty certain, I've expressed this at least once in this thread... something I'm noticing, there is some layering on previous coatings... duraglass on green zinc and fill prime, etc..
this can lead to a bad habit of trying to keep too dainty some times..

proper bodywork is about adhesion...

That light green filler in the middle is duraglas that I put onto bare metal after I first installed the quarter.
The zinc is on top of that filler and then the primer.

As I sanded today I broke through primer, then zinc, then the old filler.

 

[ryoken]

just sayin... I've seen it MANY times...


anyway.. not much you can do, it's in that qrter, not the door... 1/8 with duraglass is fine, if you don't bash it..

remember what I just said, big grinder, 24 grit, grind back onto that qrter farther than the duraglass is gonna be... don't baby it tight, they always go out further than you think..... raw steel, chunky cut to grab.....

 

[Chief Brody]

just sayin... I've seen it MANY times...


anyway.. not much you can do, it's in that qrter, not the door... 1/8 with duraglass is fine, if you don't bash it..

remember what I just said, big grinder, 24 grit, grind back onto that qrter farther than the duraglass is gonna be... don't baby it tight, they always go out further than you think..... raw steel, chunky cut to grab.....

When you say "bash it"...do you mean something like a baseball or basketball and it will shatter?

 

[tRustyK5]

Rock rash, lean it against a tree etc. Should stand up to day to day stuff I'd think.

 

[Chief Brody]

I don't plan on climbing rocks with it...what if somebody leans against it?

 

[ryoken]

Rock rash, lean it against a tree etc. Should stand up to day to day stuff I'd think.

what he said...