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Stomis' 94 Street Truck - Snail Trail

Overview Gallery Discussion
sweetk30 said:
I beet he has the 88-up rear cab mount rust out problem .

the frame ear for the body mount rusts out and drops down the hole and looks like this .
Click to expand...
Yep. It's the last body mount I have to fix. It was the only one the cab was rotten on so I ordered the patch.
 
Tuning it saturday with Josh!

Ive already got a laundry list of things to come for this truck. Firstly will be a tonneau cover to get the cell and battery covered. Then the list goes like this.

Mustang II rack and power steering delete.
Fiberglass front bumper and tube front frame forward of control arms.
AEM Methanol injection kit
Slicks and skinnies on prostars
Rear ladder bar setup and rework the exhaust, add in cutouts too
100 shot
Cage and buckets sometime this winter.

Im gonna try to get this thing to go 10.50
 
gonna have to change the thread name:rolleyes:


cant wait for some launch action shots:thumb:
 
I highly recommend a 4 link instead of a ladder bar, the additional tuning capability is worth it, especially with the front weight bias of a truck.

The truck is turning out nice, I am looking forward to your first drive, and also your first time slip! :woot:

I think your 10.50 is a long shot, you are going to need it to be considerable lighter and/or need more than a 100 shot.
 
folkenheath said:
I highly recommend a 4 link instead of a ladder bar, the additional tuning capability is worth it, especially with the front weight bias of a truck.

The truck is turning out nice, I am looking forward to your first drive, and also your first time slip! :woot:

I think your 10.50 is a long shot, you are going to need it to be considerable lighter and/or need more than a 100 shot.
Click to expand...

Im looking into doing a hybrid type ladder/truck arm setup. Something with the uppers clocking in to promote easier travel and a few different pickup points. Obviously the IS is what it is which is the downfall of the ladder type setup but we'll see.


Im not so sure 10.50 is a pipe dream. Between getting some additional timing with the meth and the hundred shot I think its doable. Hell a friend runs 11.60s in a LS6 with a baby cam in a 4th gen. Ive got way more head, way more compression, way more gear, and way more cam. I guess the NA baseline will really tell the tale.

Besides Im already planning on trying to drop at least 200lbs off the truck. Between the rack swap, ditching the steel bumper, skeletoning the core support, tubing the front frame, and ditching the backglass for lexan I should get there. And a **** load of it is in the front. I also want to build chromo control arms at work, the tubulars I have now are like army tank low rider ****s.
 
So I did a chunk of tuning today with Josh. Basically got the AFRs dialed in. Still need to work on it and the idle but I did get some drive time which was cool. Its pretty quick but the day wasnt without issue. I had an odd intermitent noise I couldnt pin point that was never there before when I started the truck. After some harder driving on the 3rd tune I got back and it went from a once in a while noise to a blatent valve tap so I need to pull the covers and reset the roller rockers.

Ive also got a clutch issue, seemingly hydraulic. When ever I **** fast the thing is not biting hard enough when I take my foot back off the clutch and causing it to slip. Im gonna try bleeding it some more but if that doesnt work Im going tol throw in the towel and buy a centerforce.

I also finished up all the body mount repairs and got the grille skeletoned out and back on. So the truck is basically back together.





Body still needs some shimming here and there.



 
Is there a restrictor in the hydraulic line for the clutch? Or in the master/slave? I know 4th gen F-bodys have one that gives problems when trying to shift quickly. It's only a problem on the 98+ LS1 cars. Did you use the standard truck hydraulics? Might be worth looking into before you go throwing parts at it.
 
I replaced my master with a 7/8 bore from a Ford truck. Worked great when I had the Hayes clutch in there but the clutch stroke was to long for the hydro throwout
 
Pulled the valve covers and double checked pushrods, rockers, and wipe. Everything looks great so Im going to assume my tap was simply rockers not pre-loaded enough. Tomorrow Im going to reset them.
 
Exhaust leaks on a single cylinder also sound almost exactly like a rocker ticking. Make sure you retorque the header bolts several times after they cool off. You'll know when it doesn't need it anymore because they finally won't move.
 
So rockers were relashed, definitely needed. Clutch is NG for the power so I decided to press on with the next wave of mods.

Mustang II rack, PS delete, centerforce clutch, and holley LS swap high clearance pan.



Up WAY in the air trans out.







Oil pan hang down for reference.


Im also going to tube out the engine crossmember so the pan can be dropped with the motor in place. Shoulda done it to begin with...
 
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