I just had to go back and read the first page again to remember what it looks like.
CK5
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Stomis' 94 Street Truck - Snail Trail
- Thread starter Stomis
- Start date
I just had to go back and read the first page again to remember what it looks like.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Finally got the driver side LCA mount clearanced, welded up and drivers side header on. And the verdict is in, it fits but just barely lol. Horseshoes and handgrenades.
Header has a light 1/8 of clearance on the front corner of the mount. Its cut back literally as far as it could possibly go. And I pulled 2 of the 6 layers off the aluminum gasket to give it some help.
Clearance on the bushing inside. About 1/16th
Heres the XJ shaft. Clears the primary with no ding unlike the stocker...
The only conclusion I can draw is that the headers were built for the motor to be mounted WAY higher. I mean I really slammed the motor down to the crossmember. I could only imagine how much higher the motor would be if it had dirty dingo mounts with 1/4in plate on top of stock clamshells...
Header has a light 1/8 of clearance on the front corner of the mount. Its cut back literally as far as it could possibly go. And I pulled 2 of the 6 layers off the aluminum gasket to give it some help.
Clearance on the bushing inside. About 1/16th
Heres the XJ shaft. Clears the primary with no ding unlike the stocker...
The only conclusion I can draw is that the headers were built for the motor to be mounted WAY higher. I mean I really slammed the motor down to the crossmember. I could only imagine how much higher the motor would be if it had dirty dingo mounts with 1/4in plate on top of stock clamshells...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Well that will do it!
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Plumbed my brake lines, including eliminating that pesky compression union on the front to back 
, dropped the tank and put in a new sending unit and the walbro 255lph pump, plumbed the regulator filter, and got the tank back in.
Tomorrow Im going to run the regulator to rail line. Also ordered 6 V-Band unions to do the exhaust.
Idk whats going on with my harness but I really feel like its going to be holding me up. The guy seemed super knowledgeable but it seems like the second he got my harness in his hands he stopped giving a **** about answering any of my phone calls or emails...
, dropped the tank and put in a new sending unit and the walbro 255lph pump, plumbed the regulator filter, and got the tank back in.Tomorrow Im going to run the regulator to rail line. Also ordered 6 V-Band unions to do the exhaust.
Idk whats going on with my harness but I really feel like its going to be holding me up. The guy seemed super knowledgeable but it seems like the second he got my harness in his hands he stopped giving a **** about answering any of my phone calls or emails...
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Redid my trans crossmember today. I was going to run them exhaust through some 3in ID pipe like the C2/C3 vette chassis but then I realized I would need to completely refab the entire crossmember and mounts to get that to line up right. So I broke out the HF pipe bender I bought 6 years ago and never used lol. Came out pretty good. Loads of clearance and allowed me to eliminate a clamp/union I was going to need.
I also got the exhaust ran to the back of the cab. Its coming out super good IMO. The U bolt clamps are simply there to lock the pipes together so they are hung as one piece. The clamps are actually welded together but nothing is being clamped with them. Everything seen will be welded and the two side will unbolt via the clamps and head flanges from each other.
The first Vband union will actually be at the back of the cab before the pipes go up to the mufflers. Ive also got cat shells welded over the intermediate straight pipes just incase I ever happen upon a mobile inspection.
I also got the exhaust ran to the back of the cab. Its coming out super good IMO. The U bolt clamps are simply there to lock the pipes together so they are hung as one piece. The clamps are actually welded together but nothing is being clamped with them. Everything seen will be welded and the two side will unbolt via the clamps and head flanges from each other.
The first Vband union will actually be at the back of the cab before the pipes go up to the mufflers. Ive also got cat shells welded over the intermediate straight pipes just incase I ever happen upon a mobile inspection.
I see you bolted the tranny rigidly to the crossmember and then put bushings on the outside. I would add a bushing to the center where it bolts to the xmember because if the only bushings you have in it are wider and/or stiffer than the motor mounts you may break a tranny case. So unless your motor mounts are solid steel I would add a bushing between the tranny and crossmember.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
The motor and the trans are mounted with the same bushings. They might as well be solid they're so tight. I did the bushings on the outside to make it so they would flex easier with the width of the crossmember adding force. I would think technically the trans should be softer because the fulcrum point on the bushings is wider no?
Its the other way around, the tranny has the same torque no matter what the distance, so if you move the bushings further away less force is applied to flex the bushings essentially making them more rigid. Using the same on both is OK, but I would only do that if the trans bushings are narrower than the engine bushings.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I agrees, but I bet in this case it would be alright.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
What do you think? 1/4 in rubber pad under the mount?
If it was mine I would take your center bracket welded to the tube, cut it off and flip it upside down and reweld it and then put one of these in there.
Or just put another bushing in between there. It might be just fine, but I don't think I would want to find out.
Or just put another bushing in between there. It might be just fine, but I don't think I would want to find out.
BTW, where did you send your harness too? Hopefully it wasn't these guys! 
https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/4673779420.html
https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/4673779420.html
If it was mine I would take your center bracket welded to the tube, cut it off and flip it upside down and reweld it and then put one of these in there.
Or just put another bushing in between there. It might be just fine, but I don't think I would want to find out.
I agree Vinnie
The trans only needs to be supported and centered, it does not need to control torque twist...that is the engine mounts job. If the engine produces 1/4" of movement at the bellhousing it would be much greater at the frame mounts of the trans crossmember, if you try to limit that movement at the frame ithe engine will still try to move and will be stressing the trans mount and the tail of the trans case which if aluminum will be the weak link in that torque line
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Hmmm maybe I'll change the frame end bushings out to rubber. I really wasn't anticipating having an issue using the same material.
EDIT: I could have sworn Ive seen this method done all over on 4wd stuff. I definitely dont want to be cracking a damn trans case.
EDIT: I could have sworn Ive seen this method done all over on 4wd stuff. I definitely dont want to be cracking a damn trans case.
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A rubber trans mount is probably only $10. If you put rubber on the outside and it's still wider than the engine mounts it still might not be soft enough, you never know for sure until you try it. But if you mount it like a triangle with one center trans mount, you know you are good. (you can still leave the poly bushings near the frame too, no need to redo those).
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Well I bought a rubber trans mount. It barely fits with where I ran the exhaust but it fits. Sadly the crossmember is garbage. The way I slammed the straight tube up under the tranny just wont work. I tried cutting the tube out and replating things in but it was just turning into a mess. Im just going to remount the trans to a new straight bar in front of the mount and whip up some new bends. Live and learn I guess. I should have done more research before I did it like that but like I was saying I could have sworn Id seen it done like that numerous times, I must be mistaken though because further research on the net led me to me being wrong and Heath being right.
On the bright side the very first hook up has been made to the truck lol. Throttle cable bracket made, cable cut and fit works great. Nice and smooth. Im glad I kinda got forced into a lokar cable because I know Ill never have binding issues.
On the bright side the very first hook up has been made to the truck lol. Throttle cable bracket made, cable cut and fit works great. Nice and smooth. Im glad I kinda got forced into a lokar cable because I know Ill never have binding issues.
I'm glad you are getting the trans mount fixed, you will feel better when it's done. Sorry it caused extra work for you.
Thats a sweet cable. If they have you cut the cable how do they have you crimp the little ball or cylinder on the end of the cable that slides into the throttle pivot arm?
Thats a sweet cable. If they have you cut the cable how do they have you crimp the little ball or cylinder on the end of the cable that slides into the throttle pivot arm?
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Live and learn I guess right. Better fix it now than break my god damn trans in half.
The dowel type piece has a set screw in it. Grabs on real good. I was kinda leary but they put a hex on it so you can hold it and really smush the cable in there.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Some more progress. Crossmember V3 w/ a stock rubber mount.
Hung the mufflers.
I lived and learned that I should have hung my mufflers before doing the front section of my exhaust. It added some complexity to say the least to the bends between the intermediate pipes and the mufflers. Miters on bends with a compound angle... when it really should have been a simple 45*/45* offset or possibly could have been straight
Ran the drivers side tail pipe in no time at all.
And we all know exhaust tips are for hondas so DUMPS!
I also got the good news that my harness should be here any day. Talk about quality control. How about "Your harness is on the way, you dont pay me until you see it and are satisfied"
Hung the mufflers.
I lived and learned that I should have hung my mufflers before doing the front section of my exhaust. It added some complexity to say the least to the bends between the intermediate pipes and the mufflers. Miters on bends with a compound angle... when it really should have been a simple 45*/45* offset or possibly could have been straight
Ran the drivers side tail pipe in no time at all.
And we all know exhaust tips are for hondas so DUMPS!
I also got the good news that my harness should be here any day. Talk about quality control. How about "Your harness is on the way, you dont pay me until you see it and are satisfied"
Thats good to hear on the harness. Can't wait for the burnoutburnout
