That's some nice insulation!
Martin
Martin
CK5
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The Beige Jimmy
- Thread starter regal403
- Start date
Factory fresh and period correct!
Gazing out over my ranch where my 250 horses roam.
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Looks good. 2” lift would have her sitting perfect.
I like the Colorado license plates.
Martin
Martin
I bet Kenny Whitman has the missing AC components.
Martin
Martin
I have a compressor and brackets, plus an evaporator and some lines. What all do I need?
Those are the main things.
Martin
Martin
Next up on the list, in no particular order:
-Emissions testing
-If successful, title, register, and plate in Oregon
-Front axle swap to 3.42s to match the rear end
-Install gauge bulbs
-Reassemble gauge cluster/dash pad
-Install chrome rocker covers
-Install stock radio
-Speaker upgrade
-Cruise/wheel
-Emissions testing
-If successful, title, register, and plate in Oregon
-Front axle swap to 3.42s to match the rear end
-Install gauge bulbs
-Reassemble gauge cluster/dash pad
-Install chrome rocker covers
-Install stock radio
-Speaker upgrade
-Cruise/wheel
Forgot to mention tuning/timing. I got a timing light and a vacuum gauge from Harbor Freight but fortunately they're still tucked away neatly inside the packaging.
I got a carburetor adjusting screwdriver from NAPA and fiddled around after watching a few YouTube videos. They said to screw in the idle adjuster screws all the way in, then back them out 3 turns and make adjustments from there. Mine were 6.5 turns out each (high altitude tuning?)
I set them at 3 turns out and it ran, fairly rough. Then I played with the distributor by ear until it smoothed out some. Nice.
I haven't adjusted the choke spring yet, but it idles fast as **** now when the choke is on. Need to work on that still. The exhaust smells really rich to me, so I need to get the vacuum gauge and timing light on it and see what we're working with. Never used those before, so that should be fun to figure out.
Any tuning tips?
I got a carburetor adjusting screwdriver from NAPA and fiddled around after watching a few YouTube videos. They said to screw in the idle adjuster screws all the way in, then back them out 3 turns and make adjustments from there. Mine were 6.5 turns out each (high altitude tuning?)
I set them at 3 turns out and it ran, fairly rough. Then I played with the distributor by ear until it smoothed out some. Nice.
I haven't adjusted the choke spring yet, but it idles fast as **** now when the choke is on. Need to work on that still. The exhaust smells really rich to me, so I need to get the vacuum gauge and timing light on it and see what we're working with. Never used those before, so that should be fun to figure out.
Any tuning tips?
Excited to see responses on tuning, because I have never tuned the carb on my K30. It is an AFB and it came with a CD-ROM, so I have an old to do list item to boot that thing up and see what sort of instructions are in there. If I get to it and you're still working on tuning, I'll chime in if I can.
Mine is likely the stock Quadrajet, but there appears to be an electric connector near the choke mechanism. But no wires in the vicinity that look like they belong to it.
Also all the vacuum lines I had to reinstall for emissions make it a lot of fun to access the idle adjustment screws with my flexible double D screwdriver.
Also all the vacuum lines I had to reinstall for emissions make it a lot of fun to access the idle adjustment screws with my flexible double D screwdriver.
Picture of the carburetor?
Martin
Martin
I'm not sure why it's been double posting some photos.
Not a feedback carburetor.
Martin
Martin
That carb has electric choke, which I like, and no other electric stuff.
How was it running before?
If the choke vacuum pull-off isn't working well enough, or is not adjusted properly, it will be richer than necessary, but it will be rich anyway because of the choke.
The high idle speed is adjustable separately from the normal idle speed adjustment screw. But if you take it too low, it can flood out or foul plugs when cold, so be careful to balance the choke opening vs high idle speed.
How was it running before?
If the choke vacuum pull-off isn't working well enough, or is not adjusted properly, it will be richer than necessary, but it will be rich anyway because of the choke.
The high idle speed is adjustable separately from the normal idle speed adjustment screw. But if you take it too low, it can flood out or foul plugs when cold, so be careful to balance the choke opening vs high idle speed.
It ran great in Denver and felt less powerful once we moved it here to Portland.
The choke wouldn't stay engaged when cold and the idle was rougher after the move. It fouled plugs 6 & 8 last fall, but I haven't driven it since October maybe.
I'll play with the choke adjustment and try to locate the normal idle speed screw.
The choke wouldn't stay engaged when cold and the idle was rougher after the move. It fouled plugs 6 & 8 last fall, but I haven't driven it since October maybe.
I'll play with the choke adjustment and try to locate the normal idle speed screw.
I got off work a little early today so I ran home and watched a YouTube video on how to adjust timing and set it to 12° advanced. This made it idle much smoother.
Then I watched this video again and played around with my vacuum gauge. The choke wouldn't engage since it was fairly warm out.
I started at 3.5 turns out on both adjusters and it was about 18 inches of Hg. Backed them out another turn, revved it up some and no change to the vacuum. Backed them out another turn each, same deal. Backed them out 2 full turns, which is is the neighborhood of where they were in Denver, and still no change to idle speed, quality, or vacuum.
At this point, it was less responsive to blipping the throttle, like it'd kinda cough or stumble before revving up, so I backed them off 2 turns each. Throttle was fairly snappy. I was feeling proud.
Ran over to the Department of Environmental Quality emissions testing station before they closed.
They make you wait inside your rig while it idles, no dyno rollers like in Colorado. Never bothered to open the hood, just looked at the VIN and underneath with a mirror to confirm I have a cat. Then they made me hold it at an excessively high idle speed for the final test.
And I failed miserably. Really rich, so I'll start by backing out my adjuster screws some more until it starts to lean miss I guess? Need some advice.
Time for a cold snack.
Then I watched this video again and played around with my vacuum gauge. The choke wouldn't engage since it was fairly warm out.
I started at 3.5 turns out on both adjusters and it was about 18 inches of Hg. Backed them out another turn, revved it up some and no change to the vacuum. Backed them out another turn each, same deal. Backed them out 2 full turns, which is is the neighborhood of where they were in Denver, and still no change to idle speed, quality, or vacuum.
At this point, it was less responsive to blipping the throttle, like it'd kinda cough or stumble before revving up, so I backed them off 2 turns each. Throttle was fairly snappy. I was feeling proud.
Ran over to the Department of Environmental Quality emissions testing station before they closed.
They make you wait inside your rig while it idles, no dyno rollers like in Colorado. Never bothered to open the hood, just looked at the VIN and underneath with a mirror to confirm I have a cat. Then they made me hold it at an excessively high idle speed for the final test.
And I failed miserably. Really rich, so I'll start by backing out my adjuster screws some more until it starts to lean miss I guess? Need some advice.
Time for a cold snack.
