CK5
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The Beige Jimmy
- Thread starter regal403
- Start date
I'd definitely say valve stem seals. Get some tools together and swap them out. Just gotta loosen the rockers and pressurize the cylinder with air then you can pop the springs off change seals and slap it all back together. I think my buddy made a spring compressor back in high school for doing them that way but I'm sure there's options out there to buy.
Got hot?
Martin
Martin
Seems straightforward enough, but how do I know which seals to replace? Just do all 4 on the two offending cylinders?
I don't see how. I've never had to add any PS fluid. It does leak a little, but just enough to keep the lines wet. Or maybe that was motor oil. Not sure.
I'd just do that whole bank. All 4 cylinders on that side.
So the valve seal sets I got for the intake and exhaust valves both came with a set of umbrellas and a set of o-rings.
When I disassembled the #8 exhaust spring, I found an o-ring but no umbrella seal.
Whatever, I put it back together with a new o ring and did not put in the umbrella seal.
Now I'm installing the new o-ring on the intake valve and it keeps getting pushed down and out of the groove when try to slide on the valve spring. What's the secret here?
I can't get the o ring to stay in its groove, even tried a different oring. Tried putting it in the keeper groove and seeing if the valve would slide it into the correct lower groove. Nope, just kept sliding it downward.
When I disassembled the #8 exhaust spring, I found an o-ring but no umbrella seal.
Whatever, I put it back together with a new o ring and did not put in the umbrella seal.
Now I'm installing the new o-ring on the intake valve and it keeps getting pushed down and out of the groove when try to slide on the valve spring. What's the secret here?
I can't get the o ring to stay in its groove, even tried a different oring. Tried putting it in the keeper groove and seeing if the valve would slide it into the correct lower groove. Nope, just kept sliding it downward.
Finally got all the seals replaced on that head. Turns out the umbrellas are not compatible with mine, so I put just the o rings on. And the trick to installing the o rings is to put the valve on first, then the o ring. Push it gently down into the 2nd groove and then the keepers fit in. It only took me all day.
This morning I got the radio situation sorted out. Deleted the ancient Westinghouse and wired up a reverse stock pigtail to use a swap meet radio I got a couple months back.
Before
After
Next up was a steering shaft upgrade. I got this out of a 1992 Jeep Cherokee XJ for $15.
Did a little grinding for the pinch bolt on the double D end to fit.
Had to grind a little more after my first attempt.
Then I heated up the sliding part of the shaft with my propane torch for 40-50 seconds until I heard some sizzling inside and it yielded to the compressive force I was applying to it. Slipped it onto the splined shaft end of the steering box, installed the bolt, and called it good. She's as snug as a bug and it feels much more connected and tighter when steering now. Should have done this a while ago.
This new radio shreds!
This morning I got the radio situation sorted out. Deleted the ancient Westinghouse and wired up a reverse stock pigtail to use a swap meet radio I got a couple months back.
Before
After
Next up was a steering shaft upgrade. I got this out of a 1992 Jeep Cherokee XJ for $15.
Did a little grinding for the pinch bolt on the double D end to fit.
Had to grind a little more after my first attempt.
Then I heated up the sliding part of the shaft with my propane torch for 40-50 seconds until I heard some sizzling inside and it yielded to the compressive force I was applying to it. Slipped it onto the splined shaft end of the steering box, installed the bolt, and called it good. She's as snug as a bug and it feels much more connected and tighter when steering now. Should have done this a while ago.
This new radio shreds!
Nice!
Smoke on start up?
Martin
Smoke on start up?
Martin
I didn't observe any smoke before, just the fouled plugs. It seems to start a little easier now, maybe because the plugs aren't fouled? I'll video a startup and look for signs of smoke.
Took the boy out for a cruise. I think he likes it.
Took it on a 40 mile round trip cruise up to the top of Bald Peak last weekend and it started missing on the way up the hill. It hasn't done that since I did the valve seals on the passenger side head, but I also hadn't checked the plugs to since doing the job either. It was in the 90s and after I parked it, it started hissing and steaming.
One of the heater hoses split and was hanging together by a thread right at the fitting. I removed the stubby broken piece of hose and reconnected it. A passerby gave me a couple bottles of water to throw down the rad and we headed for home. The temp gauge showed 170-180 except while sitting at an exceptionally long stoplight when it passed 210 briefly.
So tonight I pulled the plugs to investigate the miss that started on Sunday and what do you know, #6 and #8 are a little and a lot fouled, respectively.
What else could be causing this same issue as before? Compression check seemed good, new valve seals on all 8 passenger side valves, and the carb is tuned OK. I don't want to keep putting plugs in it.
The outside threads of several plugs are wet with sticky oil and it does leak a little overnight. Could the valve covers be leaking and somehow fouling the plugs?
One of the heater hoses split and was hanging together by a thread right at the fitting. I removed the stubby broken piece of hose and reconnected it. A passerby gave me a couple bottles of water to throw down the rad and we headed for home. The temp gauge showed 170-180 except while sitting at an exceptionally long stoplight when it passed 210 briefly.
So tonight I pulled the plugs to investigate the miss that started on Sunday and what do you know, #6 and #8 are a little and a lot fouled, respectively.
What else could be causing this same issue as before? Compression check seemed good, new valve seals on all 8 passenger side valves, and the carb is tuned OK. I don't want to keep putting plugs in it.
The outside threads of several plugs are wet with sticky oil and it does leak a little overnight. Could the valve covers be leaking and somehow fouling the plugs?
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The plugs would have to be pretty loose to allow oil past into the combustion chamber. I think you'd know if that was the case.
Yeah, they were pretty snug. I doubt that's the source of the oil. Could it be an intake manifold gasket possibly? Valve guides?
I would think that the intake manifold gasket would make it run somewhat poorly, but I guess that it could be a small enough leak to be able to hide it.
I know that the valve guide being worn can do that for sure.
I know that the valve guide being worn can do that for sure.
Shoot, I hate to keep throwing parts at it but how do I troubleshoot the source of the leak? An intake manifold gasket isn't the worst thing in the world but if I do that, I might as well put on a cool looking aluminum manifold.
And if that doesn't solve the plug fouling issue, then do I pull the heads and upgrade them instead of just the valve guides?
And if I do heads, might as well throw in a milf cam and maybe a whole new exhaust system while I'm in there. Slippery slope...
And if that doesn't solve the plug fouling issue, then do I pull the heads and upgrade them instead of just the valve guides?
And if I do heads, might as well throw in a milf cam and maybe a whole new exhaust system while I'm in there. Slippery slope...
Which intake do you need? Prior to '86, or "86+?
Martin
Martin
Pre-86. I have perimeter bolt valve covers, not center bolt. It's a Hecho en Mexico GM Goodwrench 350.
'87 was the switch to perimeter valve covers. The center two intake manifold bolts on each side are the difference. As yours is a Goodwrench engine, I am not sure which you need.
Martin
There are methods for testing if you have valve guide leaks or piston ring issues. Look into doing a leak down test.
