Same, I didn't even know about the bolt hole trick but it's been 20 something years sense I have messed with a small block.
CK5
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The Beige Jimmy
- Thread starter regal403
- Start date
I know on a 6.2 it was wasier to get from the bottom of the truck, not sure how it would be on a gasser motor. at least your pump isn't in the tank like mine 
I did remove the air pump and bracket to access that hole. Fighting the pushrod is one thing, but the biggest pain was getting the fuel pump lever under the pushrod. Then getting it into position so the bolts would line up with the holes was seriously so difficult for me.
I watched a video that said once you get the lever slid in under the pushrod, to rotate the fuel pump slightly clockwise and just get the rear bolt started. Well let me tell you what, that is much easier said than done. I couldn't rotate it as far as I wanted because the round diaphragm housing hit the motor mount. I had to apply upward pressure to the pump (slightly compressing the very stiff lever) while aligning and pressing in on the swivel socket and 12" extension on my ratchet to get the bolt to bite into the threads because my left hand kept cramping up.
Pretty soon the 90 minute RTV was getting tacky, then it got slippery, and I was sweating like sweaty guy in a sweating contest.
I invented about 4 new curse words befofe I could coax that back bolt to get started. Then I rotated the pump, keeping pressure on the lever, and got the front bolt (the non-stock one that was on the Jimmy when I bought it) going a little easier.
I watched a video that said once you get the lever slid in under the pushrod, to rotate the fuel pump slightly clockwise and just get the rear bolt started. Well let me tell you what, that is much easier said than done. I couldn't rotate it as far as I wanted because the round diaphragm housing hit the motor mount. I had to apply upward pressure to the pump (slightly compressing the very stiff lever) while aligning and pressing in on the swivel socket and 12" extension on my ratchet to get the bolt to bite into the threads because my left hand kept cramping up.
Pretty soon the 90 minute RTV was getting tacky, then it got slippery, and I was sweating like sweaty guy in a sweating contest.
I invented about 4 new curse words befofe I could coax that back bolt to get started. Then I rotated the pump, keeping pressure on the lever, and got the front bolt (the non-stock one that was on the Jimmy when I bought it) going a little easier.
On the 6.2 the space between the engine and the frame is tighter because the engine is a bit widerI know on a 6.2 it was wasier to get from the bottom of the truck, not sure how it would be on a gasser motor. at least your pump isn't in the tank like mine
I like to rotate the engine so the cam lobe isn't pushing on the rod so much. It makes assembly easier.
Maybe that was part of my problem. I bumped the engine over a few times to find a better position on the cam but never found the sweet spot. I've heard having #1 cyl. at TDC is where you want it.
Old Chevies are supposed to leak, right?
I really don't like any leaks, but I'm considering leaving the fuel pump alone for the time being. Just developed this leak yesterday.
I really don't like any leaks, but I'm considering leaving the fuel pump alone for the time being. Just developed this leak yesterday.
If it’s leaking it’s got oil. If it’s not it needs oil.
I swapped fuel pumps on the side of the highway once in my K10, and made a gasket out of a granola bar box. It worked and I forgot about it for awhile.
