The Bent77 K10 now tow pig

[Bent77]

Any opinions on header reducers?

Brands? Styles?

I want low to no maintenance with zero leaks due to the fuel injection using the 02 sensor
Please give me some real world experience

 

[TreeFarm]

Any opinions on header reducers?

Brands? Styles?

I want low to no maintenance with zero leaks due to the fuel injection using the 02 sensor
Please give me some real world experience

I'm a 3 bolt flange kind of guy. Easy to get to seal and easy to replace the gasket if one fails

 

[skunked]

The ball and socket are a better design. Not sure what headers you’re going with but some come with those.

 

[obijuank5]

V band clamps like turbochargers use. Cut off your old collector and weld in v bands.

Not sure of this exact product but this is they type I'm suggesting.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/131470482253


If not those, ball and socket are next.

 

[Bent77]

The ball and socket are a better design. Not sure what headers you’re going with but some come with those.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/snh-cc1dp-p

Definitely asking because of the no maintenance issue. I expect to torque them after it warms up. Don't want to work on them a bunch after

 

[Bent77]

V band clamps like turbochargers use. Cut off your old collector and weld in v bands.

Not sure of this exact product but this is they type I'm suggesting.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/131470482253


If not those, ball and socket are next.

Those also look promising

 

[ktmoutfront]

Turn the headers over and staight pipe out the hood.

 

[TreeFarm]

Those also look promising

V bands are awesome. We use them everywhere on aircraft. I use them in my exhaust to connect the y pipe to the rear half of the exhaust.

They are fairly cheap and easy. Just weld them on and you are good. Make sure you get stainless ones though. Some come with alignment flanges and some don't. The ones that don't you can make your own by sliding one side of pipe through so it's proud and makes a lip to fit the other flange

 

[Bent77]

Turn the headers over and staight pipe out the hood.

no

V bands are awesome. We use them everywhere on aircraft. I use them in my exhaust to connect the y pipe to the rear half of the exhaust.

They are fairly cheap and easy. Just weld them on and you are good. Make sure you get stainless ones though. Some come with alignment flanges and some don't. The ones that don't you can make your own by sliding one side of pipe through so it's proud and makes a lip to fit the other flange

welding stainless to steel sound like an issue waiting to happen

 

[TreeFarm]

no


welding stainless to steel sound like an issue waiting to happen

You're not trying to make some weld porn here. I just Tig mine on and have never had a problem. Sure you're supposed to purge the backside but what's the point when I'm welding it to mild steel exhaust pipe

 

[Bent77]

I dont have a TIG. Certainly not paying someone to do it, so that option may be out

 

[skunked]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/snh-cc1dp-p

Definitely asking because of the no maintenance issue. I expect to torque them after it warms up. Don't want to work on them a bunch after

The reducers that come with those manifolds should be fine, I’ve used them on a couple cars.

 

[Bent77]

Alright. I’ll stop overthinking it then

 

[6872xtc]

I believe that you NEED some sort of flex joint. The stock manifold has some flex at the collector. I think that you will have fewer problems if you put one in too.

 

[TreeFarm]

I dont have a TIG. Certainly not paying someone to do it, so that option may be out

You can mig stainless just fine

 

[ZooMad75]

If you must stick with the standard 3 bolt flange collectors, soft copper gaskets and prevailing torque lock nuts on the bolts. I had the crappiest ratty headers that came on my 75 but somebody used the dead soft copper gaskets at the heads and the collectors. The prevailing torque lock nuts don't have any nylon in them and are just fine to use in hot applications. They don't back off. Combined with the copper they shouldn't leak.

 

[Bent77]

If you must stick with the standard 3 bolt flange collectors, soft copper gaskets and prevailing torque lock nuts on the bolts. I had the crappiest ratty headers that came on my 75 but somebody used the dead soft copper gaskets at the heads and the collectors. The prevailing torque lock nuts don't have any nylon in them and are just fine to use in hot applications. They don't back off. Combined with the copper they shouldn't leak.

Yeah I figured I should spring for those

 

[Babaganoosh]

I believe that you NEED some sort of flex joint. The stock manifold has some flex at the collector. I think that you will have fewer problems if you put one in too.

My exhaust is welded straight to the frame and my engine is held in by poly leaf spring bushings.. I have zero flex haha.

Zoomies out the hood.

 

[LNielson]

welding stainless to steel sound like an issue waiting to happen

In a highly corrosive atmosphere/environment this would cause the carbon steel side of the joint to corrode at a much faster rate, in your exhaust, it would be hard to tell a difference.

 

[Cili]

I also vote for v-bands. No leaks and quick and easy to take apart