CK5
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TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
I'm a 3 bolt flange kind of guy. Easy to get to seal and easy to replace the gasket if one fails
The ball and socket are a better design. Not sure what headers you’re going with but some come with those.
V band clamps like turbochargers use. Cut off your old collector and weld in v bands.
Not sure of this exact product but this is they type I'm suggesting.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/131470482253
If not those, ball and socket are next.
Not sure of this exact product but this is they type I'm suggesting.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/131470482253
If not those, ball and socket are next.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/snh-cc1dp-p
Definitely asking because of the no maintenance issue. I expect to torque them after it warms up. Don't want to work on them a bunch after
Those also look promising
Turn the headers over and staight pipe out the hood.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
V bands are awesome. We use them everywhere on aircraft. I use them in my exhaust to connect the y pipe to the rear half of the exhaust.
They are fairly cheap and easy. Just weld them on and you are good. Make sure you get stainless ones though. Some come with alignment flanges and some don't. The ones that don't you can make your own by sliding one side of pipe through so it's proud and makes a lip to fit the other flange
no
welding stainless to steel sound like an issue waiting to happen
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
You're not trying to make some weld porn here. I just Tig mine on and have never had a problem. Sure you're supposed to purge the backside but what's the point when I'm welding it to mild steel exhaust pipe
The reducers that come with those manifolds should be fine, I’ve used them on a couple cars.
I believe that you NEED some sort of flex joint. The stock manifold has some flex at the collector. I think that you will have fewer problems if you put one in too.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
You can mig stainless just fine
If you must stick with the standard 3 bolt flange collectors, soft copper gaskets and prevailing torque lock nuts on the bolts. I had the crappiest ratty headers that came on my 75 but somebody used the dead soft copper gaskets at the heads and the collectors. The prevailing torque lock nuts don't have any nylon in them and are just fine to use in hot applications. They don't back off. Combined with the copper they shouldn't leak.
Yeah I figured I should spring for those
My exhaust is welded straight to the frame and my engine is held in by poly leaf spring bushings.. I have zero flex haha.
Zoomies out the hood.
In a highly corrosive atmosphere/environment this would cause the carbon steel side of the joint to corrode at a much faster rate, in your exhaust, it would be hard to tell a difference.
