I was wondering there for a minute!My truck couldn’t handle that weight, the 57’s would turn into pretzels
CK5
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Part of my rear suspension upgrade is going to be getting my e brake back. I think I can get it down with just moving the brackets back some... hopefully.
Spent the last week doing exploratory surgery. After going through the front axle, doing some spring bushings and the steering box, its less than a pleasure to drive. Requires too much effort to turn the steering wheel
Spoke with the guys at ORD, and Stephen twice (man is a genius I swear) After explaining everything, he suggested I had a mechanical bind. So I pulled the horn button and used a torque wrench to measure the exact amount of force to turn the wheel, writing down the average of L-R as I slowly removed items out of the system
At that point I also received an email back from PSC, confirming the torque input expectations on the new steering box. Having that information, the only thing left that I changed on the axle were the ball joints
I was able to reset driver side, but not at torque spec. That knuckle alone was 60% of my system resistance when at proper torque. So either the C or the knuckle is bent
In true fashion, I had to cut the lower ball joint off of the passenger side to be able to start that side over
Spoke with the guys at ORD, and Stephen twice (man is a genius I swear) After explaining everything, he suggested I had a mechanical bind. So I pulled the horn button and used a torque wrench to measure the exact amount of force to turn the wheel, writing down the average of L-R as I slowly removed items out of the system
At that point I also received an email back from PSC, confirming the torque input expectations on the new steering box. Having that information, the only thing left that I changed on the axle were the ball joints
I was able to reset driver side, but not at torque spec. That knuckle alone was 60% of my system resistance when at proper torque. So either the C or the knuckle is bent
In true fashion, I had to cut the lower ball joint off of the passenger side to be able to start that side over
time for a 60 front . . . 
sure sucks doing good work to then have a worse problem and have to redo it all again .
sure sucks doing good work to then have a worse problem and have to redo it all again .
Still no 60! Those are gold plated out heretime for a 60 front . . .
sure sucks doing good work to then have a worse problem and have to redo it all again .
Yeah it sucks. Ton of work, but the parts house at least warrantied the ball joints
Moogs?
Oh don't worry about it having no return to center. Just eat your spinach and drive the dang thing. It will loosen up after a bit.
Yep. Went in there looking for Spicers, but they said they couldn’t order them
Nice knowing that buying parts from the parts house allows me to get lifetime returns
I've known people that buy parts with the mindset. I'd rather not have to replace it in the first place, free or not.
This is why I got rid of the spring-less in my 60. It made the steering too tight for my tastes.
Have you thought about taking it to an alignment shop to see if they pick upon a problem with the knuckles?
This is why I got rid of the spring-less in my 60. It made the steering too tight for my tastes.
Have you thought about taking it to an alignment shop to see if they pick upon a problem with the knuckles?
I can get the crew cab done for $80.
Good time to go with some Orange knuckles. (I can't remember who makes them now, Crane?).
Hey, I’m sure you’re doing it the right way with the little four prong adjuster sleeve on the upper yeah?
Yep. Tried that way. Ended up setting by feel
Yeah the instructions with the part said 70 lb/ft.
I adjusted the knuckle by feel this time but I have a fish hook in my hat
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The nut on the top of it is 70#. The adjustment sleeve is there to set the preload on how tight it turns.
By feel works. As long as it isn't loose enough to push side to side with one finger.
By feel works. As long as it isn't loose enough to push side to side with one finger.
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