CK5
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For S&G
AKA, the instructions are probably why the Moog ball joints have a high failure rate

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I did it on my old 86 k5. First 4x4 ball joints I ever did.
Got the one side tight and tried to move it to get the drag link in and it didn't move :doah:
 
Huh... My Haynes said tighten to certain preload :dunno:. And I think it was like 12-18#.
 
Huh... My Haynes said tighten to certain preload :dunno:. And I think it was like 12-18#.
Yeah, and as much as I reference the service manual and not the parts manual, you would think I would know better
 
I guess I got lucky when I slammed the ball joints in the new to me knuckle last fall. I didn't have any excessive drag that I could feel when I turned it. I had left the adjuster exactly where it was with the old ball joint though. It was a moog that was in there before and moog was what I put back in. Blind luck I guess.
 
It seems like I read those same directions when i did 3 axles around here. I even believe that my Chilton manual from 1989 says the same.

I am starting to think that it's a good thing that I got rid of my blue longbed..

Babaganooshed!!!

:D
 
It seems like I read those same directions when i did 3 axles around here. I even believe that my Chilton manual from 1989 says the same.

I am starting to think that it's a good thing that I got rid of my blue longbed..

Babaganooshed!!!

:D
I should feel bad but blue long beds are sexy @Bent77
 
Spent some time in the HD parking lot today. No power to the computer

looks like I have some rewiring to do
 
Yeah, and as much as I reference the service manual and not the parts manual, you would think I would know better
When I did the first one 35 years ago I didn't have any instructions or any manuals so I took the pieces and tried to figure out what that nut is for it took me 3 days to figure it must be to adjust the distance between the two ball joints so the weight is on both at the same time so I tightened the bottom one good n tite and snugged the adjuster sleeve to take up any slack then turned the nut a quarter turn using a flat screwdriver, I didn't have the right tool.
Then I tightened the top nut.
Never had a problem with it and I always did it that way.
I also do my bearing preload by feel, so :dunno:
 
I hate "by feel" stuff. Trailer wheel bearings are always a challenge for me because I can't stop thinking "did I get them too tight... actually maybe they are too loose..." and so on.

and are they new bearings or used, and the ones that say tighten to 50#, then back off one flat or closest cotter pin hole....but thats only half a flat away, or one and a half flats...lol
 
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