Reading them is one thing. Understanding them is another.
PbbthReading them is one thing. Understanding them is another.
Yeah, and as much as I reference the service manual and not the parts manual, you would think I would know betterHuh... My Haynes said tighten to certain preload. And I think it was like 12-18#.
Yep, cuz that’s no buenoSomeone screwed up translating the directions from Chinese.

I should feel bad but blue long beds are sexy @Bent77It seems like I read those same directions when i did 3 axles around here. I even believe that my Chilton manual from 1989 says the same.
I am starting to think that it's a good thing that I got rid of my blue longbed..
Babaganooshed!!!
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Spent some time in the HD parking lot today. No power to the computer
looks like I have some rewiring to do
SweetDo you want the number for the guy who wired the van I was working on? He has time.
yep, lost the ignition feed. Did some trail repairs and drove homeDoes bro-flo have a 12v constant and a 12v ignition feed?
When I did the first one 35 years ago I didn't have any instructions or any manuals so I took the pieces and tried to figure out what that nut is for it took me 3 days to figure it must be to adjust the distance between the two ball joints so the weight is on both at the same time so I tightened the bottom one good n tite and snugged the adjuster sleeve to take up any slack then turned the nut a quarter turn using a flat screwdriver, I didn't have the right tool.Yeah, and as much as I reference the service manual and not the parts manual, you would think I would know better

I hate "by feel" stuff. Trailer wheel bearings are always a challenge for me because I can't stop thinking "did I get them too tight... actually maybe they are too loose..." and so on.
Once you have done enough of them and destroy one or two, you will do them fineand are they new bearings or used, and the ones that say tighten to 50#, then back off one flat or closest cotter pin hole....but thats only half a flat away, or one and a half flats...lol
