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The Bent77 K10 now tow pig

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Spent some time making the rounds on the wiring diagrams, then unhacking some of my hacking in the wiring

pulled out some old wiring for the trailer brake controller, moved the EFI keyed signal wire to the factory coil trigger wiring, now that that feed has been replaced by the ECM. I didn’t bother to trace or fix whatever ****ery of origin I had it wired to.

Traced and tried to sort the issue of the Hazard circuit blowing the fuse. As this is also the brake light, it’s a bit of concern. Ultimately, pulled the hazard flasher bulb from the fuse panel and left it out. If that fuse goes again, I know the issue is not in the column (I suspect it is). Direction signals and brake lights work

Trimmed and and rewired ask the questionable connections at the tail lamps

D29C5E65-3F24-4AB1-B9E2-9FB3B8F59761.jpeg
 
Bent77 said:
Spent some time making the rounds on the wiring diagrams, then unhacking some of my hacking in the wiring

pulled out some old wiring for the trailer brake controller, moved the EFI keyed signal wire to the factory coil trigger wiring, now that that feed has been replaced by the ECM. I didn’t bother to trace or fix whatever ****ery of origin I had it wired to.

Traced and tried to sort the issue of the Hazard circuit blowing the fuse. As this is also the brake light, it’s a bit of concern. Ultimately, pulled the hazard flasher bulb from the fuse panel and left it out. If that fuse goes again, I know the issue is not in the column (I suspect it is). Direction signals and brake lights work

Trimmed and and rewired ask the questionable connections at the tail lamps

View attachment 341126
Click to expand...

Good times! Want to fix my wireing after you get done with yours!?
 
I fix wiring for a living, and generally enjoy my job. But there's something about the simple 12v car wiring that totally brings the SUCK. I put off troubleshooting most of my stuff till I can't anymore because I just flat don't like automotive wiring lol.
You'd think 12v and a ground would be so much simpler than a 6x6 panel with 10,000 feet of wire in it. But there's no contest on which id rather delve into.
 
shady said:
Huh... My Haynes said tighten to certain preload :dunno:. And I think it was like 12-18#.
Click to expand...
So I'm going back in on the front axle.

Knowing I set them by "feel" and I know they are in excess of this.
It was a little better to steer, but not great. So ill check it with the torque wrench on the wheel and try again
 
The preload I mentioned wasn't a torque. Its #s of force to pull the knuckle side to side measured at the tie rod hole.

I used a fish scale since it has hooks on both sides. And tightened it slowly until I had it where it got to 15# before it moved.
 
Not sure I have a fish scale, but I’ll find something. With just the knuckles it take 60” pounds to cycle the wheel. The box is only 7
 
Wow. That's rough.

I've been searching so I could screen shot that procedure.... But I really can't find it :dunno:. I know I got that from somewhere when I did my 86. Even bought the scale just for that purpose lol, I don't even really fish.
I did find that it's 10# pull force at the tie rod hole. But most directions matched what you had.... Only variation was, 80 for lower (make sure adjuster is loosened first), then 50 on adjuster, and 100 for top nut. That was Dana 44 directions from Spicer. Also where I read the 10# pull force. Don't know if a 10b is different or not :dunno:
 
shady said:
Wow. That's rough.

I've been searching so I could screen shot that procedure.... But I really can't find it :dunno:. I know I got that from somewhere when I did my 86. Even bought the scale just for that purpose lol, I don't even really fish.
I did find that it's 10# pull force at the tie rod hole. But most directions matched what you had.... Only variation was, 80 for lower (make sure adjuster is loosened first), then 50 on adjuster, and 100 for top nut. That was Dana 44 directions from Spicer. Also where I read the 10# pull force. Don't know if a 10b is different or not :dunno:
Click to expand...
Same parts knuckle out and same box. Can’t think why it would be different?
 
Do I need to go find that manual and resend that picture of the procedure?
You're getting old and forgetful.
 
Nope

They were right at 10# breakaway. Chiltons said 25-33

Despite the pump seeming to work fine, I guess I’ll look there next
 
Pulled the valve from the power steering pump. Cleaned it out, made sure there were 2x #4 washers in there, ground down the end pin some more

Stretched the return spring another inch and drilled the fitting to .1875”
:whistle:

Seemed to like that. Still a little weak around idle. Pump is probably tired
 
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