It's fubar.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Ya think?
It didn’t fall out
My axle building buddy thinks my clanging is the gear oil needing anti-spanky. Everything locked in feels pretty tight.
Pulled the axle apart anyway (been a couple years) and didn’t find anything out of line, oil looked fine. Might do shaft joints although they don’t give any indication of issues
Last edited:
Sounds valid. I'd go with a fresh TRE as a just in case precaution. I don't know that I'd go after the joints unless they felt like they were stiff or hung up at all.Ya think?
It didn’t fall out
My axle building buddy thinks my clanging is the gear oil needing anti-spanky. Everything locked in feels pretty tight.
Pulled the axle apart anyway been a couple years) and didn’t find anything out of line, oil looked fine. Might do shaft joints although they don’t give any indication of issues
Yeah I have a new tie rod. Need to melt the assist mount to it. Guy gave it to me at the cruise last month because it wouldn’t fit his. Thought that was pretty cool
This tie rod was replaced in 1997 at 75k. Guess it served its time
That's pretty cool how you got it. If you've been driving the truck and wheeling it since 97, 20 years is a good service life. Better than tie rod ends, idler and pitman arm joints wiping out on lifted IFS trucks with under 50k in miles on them.
The tie rod end should be inspected under load. Put it back in and have someone turn the wheels left to right in quick 2-3 hour increments on the steering wheel. Be sure to hold the brake while doing that and the truck running.
Then watch each joint and look for play that way. A tie rod end will move in its socket but that video didn't show much. You had to force it to move so I'm not betting on it being bad just from that.
Then watch each joint and look for play that way. A tie rod end will move in its socket but that video didn't show much. You had to force it to move so I'm not betting on it being bad just from that.
Yeah I checked it before teardown. It makes Cheeto noises
And only about the force of a Cheeto to move that. Definitely needs replaced
It's got another 90 left in er
Looks like it should work. Most importantly it don't look like it will leak at all.
Sweet! Thanks Mark!
I was mostly worried about the fittings not getting messed up. I was going to put another box around it full of packing material, but I just got lazy.
I think a stamp is 49 cents.
In case you haven't figured it out, I'm generally an asshole..... 
Hey you sent me stuff. But then again I had to pay for it!In case you haven't figured it out, I'm generally an asshole.....
Besides he probably fresh out of plastic forks to send your way @F.S.F.W .
To do list
Somsome clunks removed, still something up there.
Went through the front axle and changed the drag link
Squeaky squeal thing under the hood
The A/F mixer needs some fine tuning. Runs okay but is too rich
Want to check the advance curve and total timing again
Handle throttle needs adjustment
Have 500 miles on the new engine already, so it’s due for the first oil change
Somsome clunks removed, still something up there.
Went through the front axle and changed the drag link
Squeaky squeal thing under the hood
The A/F mixer needs some fine tuning. Runs okay but is too rich
Want to check the advance curve and total timing again
Handle throttle needs adjustment
Have 500 miles on the new engine already, so it’s due for the first oil change
