CK5
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It’s not the according to Hoyle method, but you can mig stainless and mild steel using whatever wire is designed for the correct grade of work material. I dwell longer on the mild since it welds “harder” than the stainless, which usually wets out quickly and welds super smooth. I’ve done it with C25 gas, and just brush the weld. It’s not perfect and wouldn’t pass a destructive test, but it’s been sufficient for exhaust work prior to getting a TIG machine.

Not smarter, but dumb enough to do the wrong thing the right way.

David
You sir are smarter than I

You also confirmed I’m a hillbilly, for I’ve done it before (minus the fancy brush strokes) but wanted to make sure I had permission before proceeding as a hillbilly
 
Just my 2 pesos, but I wouldn't worry about going stainless when aluminzed steel will last a long time out here. It's easier to find 16 ga that way as well. And I have heard that it's easier to make stainless brittle from welding, so if you ended up with 18 ga stainless, made it a little brittle by some of the welds, then subject it to years of vibrations, would you have more problems than with 16 gauge aluminzed steel?
My son had to do a little digging to find 304 16 gauge stainless for his '72.
 
Not gonna work?
Mooshed flat

All I’m trying to accomplish is fixing the exhaust leak long enough to verify what I believe to be either a fuel system problem or the injection seeing the exhaust leak and trying to compensate. Just didn’t want to dump $$$ in the exhaust to find another $$$ problem elsewhere


I might or might not have used some industrial grade fire barrier sealant on the collector
 
Mooshed flat

All I’m trying to accomplish is fixing the exhaust leak long enough to verify what I believe to be either a fuel system problem or the injection seeing the exhaust leak and trying to compensate. Just didn’t want to dump $$$ in the exhaust to find another $$$ problem elsewhere


I might or might not have used some industrial grade fire barrier sealant on the collector
Haha. Can you keep it in open loop and just run the map so it’s not even looking at o2?
 
Haha. Can you keep it in open loop and just run the map so it’s not even looking at o2?
Yes. But not sure if it's tuned all F'ed up or not. Need to run it down the road, be able to listen, and watch the tuner
 
These are what I used. They have a male and female
Flange that are supposed to seal better. Not sure if the summit ones are or not. Couldn’t tell
A76FB953-CB4C-4303-8DF4-5D69D804F1B6.png
 
Probably made by the same company haha
I think the summit one is m-f
 
What are you doing shopping at summit? I thought that they ticked you off for a 2nd time.
 
I used the Summit brand flex pipe and v-bands. No complaints.

FYI, I switched to Speedway after Summit irritated me with the state tax letter, but Speedway did the same thing to me this year too. I purchased something from Jegs this week and they charged me CO tax with the purchase - like it should be done.
 
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