Perfect for when you want to grow!
You mentioned good deal on the blower - whats considered a good deal on these? Ive seen a couple on FBMP near me, but not new factory take offs
CK5
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You mentioned good deal on the blower - whats considered a good deal on these? Ive seen a couple on FBMP near me, but not new factory take offs
I mean, equivalent superchargers good for 1000hp w/intercooler run ~7-9k ballpark new, you can find em for 4-7 used depending on how rough they are. I ended up getting this low-mileage dealership take-off blower, complete with all sensors, fuel rails, throttle body, snout, Hellcat injectors, and an extra bypass valve for $1500. Most of them out there don't have fuel rails, bypass valves, or throttle body because people keep those. I was interested in anything $2500 or less as long as it looked decent, I feel like that's a good enough deal to justify the work needed to fit it. BUT, fuel rails for the hellcat blowers are FOUR HUNDRED TO FIVE HUNDRED DOLLARS just for the rails! Even stock takeoffs on Ebay are $350+ when I was looking. Keep that in mind when you're looking
Definitely watching how this turns out. I was planning to run a blower on a LS/LT, so this may be a more affordable option. I quite a ways away from that at this point though.
I'm happy to be the guinea pig, my man! I'm a textbook overthinker and planner, and I'm confident I've figured out the best and most cost effective way to get this thing running and reliable. Time will tell! I keep track of every single thing I buy and every penny I've spent, so I'll post the full detailed budget at the end
I haven't had the chance to put the LS in yet. When I was figuring out my plan for the surge tank, I noticed a sizeable crack in the crossmember and could see daylight through it. Weighed my options on repairing it, and I don't want to risk a failure later, especially with 4x the power this came with. I'm waiting for the ORD crossmember to get here (allegedly tomorrow) before I put the engine in, and the Nova part I'm waiting on gets here tomorrow too so I'm not sure when I'll have time for it.
I got the Terminator X Max installed. I don't have a photo of the ECU mounted, but I put 2 steel plates and 4 riv-nuts through the back of the glove box, and used my dremel to notch the beveled top of the plastic part of the glove box. If you position the ECU just right, it'll JUST clear the heat/AC box. This way, my ECU is 100% protected from weather and I can see all 8 lights from the driver seat at any moment. If I have to pull it, it's 4 easy screws that I could pull with pliers if I had to, and it comes right out with the glove box.
Now for the intercooler setup. I ordered my water pump and my heat exchanger from Frozen Boost. 12/10 recommend them, the best prices out there and I was very surprised by the level of quality I received. I'm running their A2W kit with the 2.6gal ice box and 24x1 heat exchanger in my 87 square, and am extremely satisfied. I can provide details and photos on that setup if requested.
I wanted more capacity for the Blazer, because the intercooler is inside the Hellcat supercharger and directly connected to the engine, so it'll get much more heat. I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on a custom 5gal tank for the engine bay, and don't want a fuel cell taking up a bunch of space in the back. I ended up grabbing this Specter 20L water can ($50), with a 4" lid to make adding ice much easier. Plastic won't dent, scratch, or heat soak like aluminum, and it fits perfectly right between the wheel well and the tailgate in the back. I think it blends in, and looks kinda neat.
Because you cannot weld fittings to plastic, I drilled two 1¾" holes for feed/return and put in some plastic bulkhead fittings from Home Depot ($18 ea) and some 90 degree ¾" barbs on for the ¾" hose used by the blower and Frozen Boost's house-brand Cobra pump. The bulkhead washers took some mild countouring with a dremel to lay flat, as I found out the inside of the seam on this tank is not perfectly smooth in the corners. I haven't put water in it yet but I have no doubt it'll seal fine.
I got the Terminator X Max installed. I don't have a photo of the ECU mounted, but I put 2 steel plates and 4 riv-nuts through the back of the glove box, and used my dremel to notch the beveled top of the plastic part of the glove box. If you position the ECU just right, it'll JUST clear the heat/AC box. This way, my ECU is 100% protected from weather and I can see all 8 lights from the driver seat at any moment. If I have to pull it, it's 4 easy screws that I could pull with pliers if I had to, and it comes right out with the glove box.
Now for the intercooler setup. I ordered my water pump and my heat exchanger from Frozen Boost. 12/10 recommend them, the best prices out there and I was very surprised by the level of quality I received. I'm running their A2W kit with the 2.6gal ice box and 24x1 heat exchanger in my 87 square, and am extremely satisfied. I can provide details and photos on that setup if requested.
I wanted more capacity for the Blazer, because the intercooler is inside the Hellcat supercharger and directly connected to the engine, so it'll get much more heat. I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on a custom 5gal tank for the engine bay, and don't want a fuel cell taking up a bunch of space in the back. I ended up grabbing this Specter 20L water can ($50), with a 4" lid to make adding ice much easier. Plastic won't dent, scratch, or heat soak like aluminum, and it fits perfectly right between the wheel well and the tailgate in the back. I think it blends in, and looks kinda neat.
Because you cannot weld fittings to plastic, I drilled two 1¾" holes for feed/return and put in some plastic bulkhead fittings from Home Depot ($18 ea) and some 90 degree ¾" barbs on for the ¾" hose used by the blower and Frozen Boost's house-brand Cobra pump. The bulkhead washers took some mild countouring with a dremel to lay flat, as I found out the inside of the seam on this tank is not perfectly smooth in the corners. I haven't put water in it yet but I have no doubt it'll seal fine.
ORD crossmember arrived! I'll get it fitted and get everything drilled, then pull it and paint today so it dries while I'm working on the Nova. This is the big block version, recommended by ORD for my setup.
Got the painted crossmember installed and bolted up.
THAR SHE BLOWS!
Dropped it in using stock male clamshell frame mounts and sliding engine mounts. I put 1/4 inch spacers under the frame mounts, and the engine still barely rests on the crossmember (LS truck oil pan). I may put a spacer between the engine block and mounts, but I'm undecided on that.
The engine needs to come forward ~1.5in for the blower to line up without touching the firewall, so I'll fab up a new transmission mount. More details on that in the video. I closed the hood until just before it latched with me in the engine bay, and I'm pretty sure it'll clear.
View attachment Snapchat-1607515990.mp4
Dropped it in using stock male clamshell frame mounts and sliding engine mounts. I put 1/4 inch spacers under the frame mounts, and the engine still barely rests on the crossmember (LS truck oil pan). I may put a spacer between the engine block and mounts, but I'm undecided on that.
The engine needs to come forward ~1.5in for the blower to line up without touching the firewall, so I'll fab up a new transmission mount. More details on that in the video. I closed the hood until just before it latched with me in the engine bay, and I'm pretty sure it'll clear.
View attachment Snapchat-1607515990.mp4
So you were currently 1.5” back from stock when you did 383, so now you are essentially bringing back to stock location and that should clear?
Very cool to see it in the engine bay!
Very cool to see it in the engine bay!
Sorry, sounds like I misspoke. The 383 was in the stock location, but the 4L80 pushed the transfer case back, requiring driveshaft work, a custom trans mount, a trans crossmember-front shaft clearance issue, longer shift linkage, and the 4wd linkage/wiring didn't reach. The engine will now be ~1.5" forward from stock, but everything else mentioned above will return to about stock location/setup. I just hope it doesn't make my crossmember-pan clearance too much worse.
I got the engine moved forward and up off of the engine crossmember. Total, I have approximately ¾" of spacers, split between the frame mounts/frame and engine mounts/engine block. For anyone wanting to run the truck LS oil pan with the ORD big block crossmember, if I did it again I'd get custom ¾-1" taller sliding engine mounts made.
I fabbed up a new transmission mount, using 2" C-channel ⅛" steel and some heavy duty (basically thick fence post?) I had in the garage. The center post is slightly off-center to accommodate the bottom transfer case bolt. It's maybe 5" tall, and angles 1" rear ward from bottom to top (2.5" longer transmission, 1.5" further forward than stock). Looks like it'll hold just fine, time will tell. None of the vertical supports are crooked, just looks like that from the picture angle.
The intercooler's heat exchanger and pump came in earlier this week, once again extremely satisfied with the quality! They both look excellent.
The A/C condenser on the Blazer has 2 staggered rows instead of my 87 R20's single layer condenser, making it almost twice as thick. Because of this, the 24" wide x 1" thick heat exchanger wouldn't fit in the core support in front of the AC condenser and radiator like in my R20. Instead, I went with 10x13x2". Because I'm running electric fans on this one, I'll just center the passenger side fan on the exchanger and it should pull air through just fine. You can see I notched the core support and rolled the metal inward, to ensure the edge wouldn't wear the inlet hose.
I mounted the intercooler pump under the bed behind the passenger rear tire. I'll need to put a shield there for it, but this way, any leaks will be on the floor and not into my carpet.
View attachment Snapchat-131380631.mp4
The tank fits great right here, but looks like I'm due for some speaker relocation. That's fine with me, these panels are in awful condition and came with the truck. Once it's driving I'll be building new side panels for both sides.
The feed and return hoses will go right from the tank through the side panel and down through the floor (pic with wooden panel removed) through the marked location.
We are getting there! Once I get my oil pressure sensor, I will be (hopefully) mounting the blower permanently, and then I can install the balancer and all the accessories and get the throttle cable figured out, PS reservoir worked out, surge tank, and all the little odds and ends. The Nova owner asked me to put a whole new wiring harness into the car (right after I just finished getting everything buttoned up, grrrr) so the Blazer may not get so much time this next week. The sooner the Nova leaves, the sooner I can get my Camaro back home and in my garage. It's supposed to start getting really nice outside, and I've only put 284 miles on it since I finished restoring it almost 2 years ago. We're burning some gas this summer!
I fabbed up a new transmission mount, using 2" C-channel ⅛" steel and some heavy duty (basically thick fence post?) I had in the garage. The center post is slightly off-center to accommodate the bottom transfer case bolt. It's maybe 5" tall, and angles 1" rear ward from bottom to top (2.5" longer transmission, 1.5" further forward than stock). Looks like it'll hold just fine, time will tell. None of the vertical supports are crooked, just looks like that from the picture angle.
The intercooler's heat exchanger and pump came in earlier this week, once again extremely satisfied with the quality! They both look excellent.
The A/C condenser on the Blazer has 2 staggered rows instead of my 87 R20's single layer condenser, making it almost twice as thick. Because of this, the 24" wide x 1" thick heat exchanger wouldn't fit in the core support in front of the AC condenser and radiator like in my R20. Instead, I went with 10x13x2". Because I'm running electric fans on this one, I'll just center the passenger side fan on the exchanger and it should pull air through just fine. You can see I notched the core support and rolled the metal inward, to ensure the edge wouldn't wear the inlet hose.
I mounted the intercooler pump under the bed behind the passenger rear tire. I'll need to put a shield there for it, but this way, any leaks will be on the floor and not into my carpet.
View attachment Snapchat-131380631.mp4
The tank fits great right here, but looks like I'm due for some speaker relocation. That's fine with me, these panels are in awful condition and came with the truck. Once it's driving I'll be building new side panels for both sides.
The feed and return hoses will go right from the tank through the side panel and down through the floor (pic with wooden panel removed) through the marked location.
We are getting there! Once I get my oil pressure sensor, I will be (hopefully) mounting the blower permanently, and then I can install the balancer and all the accessories and get the throttle cable figured out, PS reservoir worked out, surge tank, and all the little odds and ends. The Nova owner asked me to put a whole new wiring harness into the car (right after I just finished getting everything buttoned up, grrrr) so the Blazer may not get so much time this next week. The sooner the Nova leaves, the sooner I can get my Camaro back home and in my garage. It's supposed to start getting really nice outside, and I've only put 284 miles on it since I finished restoring it almost 2 years ago. We're burning some gas this summer!
I forgot to mention, I got the LSA pulley adapter put on the blower snout. This is from DJ Tuning (same place the blower adapters came from) and is a prototype, but the product will be for sale on his website soon. He's a great guy, super helpful, and answers my questions whenever I message him. Now, I'll be able to swap pulleys with screws instead of having to take the blower apart and use special tools. This uses an additional bearing at the base to provide extra support due to the added leverage created by moving the pulley outward. Very smart idea
Got the intercooler hose routed earlier this week. It runs over the frame by the fuel tank, then up the inside of the frame along the fuel lines. I think it'll be just fine. Since I'm running green coolant, I chose braided clear hose. Hopefully it looks cool like I'm imagining, and not "this was leftover hose I had laying around".
I will get it neatened up with some better ties, this was so I could cut the hoses to length.
The blower adapters are here, and they look great! They've been coated, too, not just bare aluminum.
I have my blower lid and snout gaskets now, so once I install them I can put the blower on permanently, and then get all the accessories put on, etc. I'd just like to finish the wiring stuff beforehand, while I can still stand in the engine bay.
AT LONG LAST, my ORD springs get here Tuesday, so I'll be taking care of that, too. I'll be sure to post plenty of pictures, and if anyone wants to see anything specific let me know! I'm about halfway done re-wiring the Nova, so I need to bust that out before I get too far back into the Blazer. I've been feeling sick lately, so I've been doing more driving and tuning with the Camaro and less work in the garage the past few days.
I ordered an LS throttle body adapter (R&D Fab), a bypass valve control setup (pretty neat, plug and play from DJ Tuning), an exhaust tubing kit, and a GripTec pulley (they do 15% off for military, very cool!). I also got the TMAP plugs, so I can chop the LS plugs and wire MAT and MAP into one sensor. The Hellcat blower conveniently has four of them, 2 of which are post-intercooler.
I will get it neatened up with some better ties, this was so I could cut the hoses to length.
The blower adapters are here, and they look great! They've been coated, too, not just bare aluminum.
I have my blower lid and snout gaskets now, so once I install them I can put the blower on permanently, and then get all the accessories put on, etc. I'd just like to finish the wiring stuff beforehand, while I can still stand in the engine bay.
AT LONG LAST, my ORD springs get here Tuesday, so I'll be taking care of that, too. I'll be sure to post plenty of pictures, and if anyone wants to see anything specific let me know! I'm about halfway done re-wiring the Nova, so I need to bust that out before I get too far back into the Blazer. I've been feeling sick lately, so I've been doing more driving and tuning with the Camaro and less work in the garage the past few days.
I ordered an LS throttle body adapter (R&D Fab), a bypass valve control setup (pretty neat, plug and play from DJ Tuning), an exhaust tubing kit, and a GripTec pulley (they do 15% off for military, very cool!). I also got the TMAP plugs, so I can chop the LS plugs and wire MAT and MAP into one sensor. The Hellcat blower conveniently has four of them, 2 of which are post-intercooler.
These came in today, they live in the back of the Blazer for now. These are for a 3in lift, no shackle flip.
Awesome build! Subscribed to see more!
I put it off for as long as I could, but the blower is permanently installed! I wanted to do every little thing I could beforehand, because I can't get behind the engine or wire as easily with it installed.
The biggest hurdle/delay lately was the throttle cable. There are a couple people out there running cable setups, but I haven't gotten a response as to which one, and wanted to avoid the $140 motion raceworks one. To anyone who needs it, here's the part number! Late model OBS chevy trucks, and only $27. It's 36" mount to mount (why tf do sellers measure the WHOLE cable length and not list mount distance? Crazy).
I chopped the MAT and MAP Sensor plugs off the Terminator harness and wired them up into a Hellcat TMAP plug. I also chopped the fuel pressure sensor plug and set it up for the Hellcat fuel pressure sensor that's built into the fuel rail crossover (neat). Dodge gatekeeps every shred of information about their products and sensors, the dealer couldn't tell me any sensor scaling information and WOULDN'T EVEN TELL ME THE SENSOR MANUFACTURER. The forums were also no help, and I called 7 or 8 tuners and Hellcat performance shops, to no avail. With a lot of searching and some help from chatGPT, I put together some "close enough" sensor scales for the Terminator ECU. I have a mechanical gauge on my FPR and the intake temps don't have to be exact, I'll just have a baseline so if suddenly they go out of the norm I can know something is wrong before I have a failure. I'll put the scales after this post, for the next guy.
I also got the throttle cable set up, Amazon cable bracket and a 102mm throttle body I had in the garage. This thing is gonna RIP.
The surge tank, high pressure pump, and fuel pressure regulator are all in. Fuel system is complete and ready for power. I will eventually build a little table bracket for the pump and surge tank, but a few riv-nuts will work just fine for the testing period. I would have preferred a name-brand regulator for safety's sake, but this PQY regulator was the only one with a large return port. All the other regulators had 8an/10an threads, but a tiny ⅛-¼" hole, and I don't want it to bottleneck the system. I have a Full-Flow 90⁰ bend from the fuel pump, and then a 45⁰ to the engine so it should flow very freely and keep good rail pressure. It's a smaller surge tank, but I did the math and it's like 15 seconds of WOT with no fuel added from the main tank so it'll be plenty. I accidentally switched the labels on the tank feed and tank return in the pic.
The intercooler system is now fully complete and ready for water/power. I have the hoses running along the transmission lines, under the bumper support, and up in front of the core support so they don't have to make any sharp bends.
I'm running out of things to do before I drive it! I'm gonna test drive it for a couple days before I do the suspension. That way, if something happens and I have to wait for a part or I have some sort of mechanical failure, I can do the suspension while I wait. I have 2 ignition power wires to run, 1 relay to install when I put the radiator in (elec fans) and then I just have to put the balancer/accessories on and get belts. If I decide to put the Nova off (it runs so it's also close) I may even get all that done tomorrow start cracking on the exhaust. I have the exhaust pipes/bends, I have the manifolds ready for install, and already clearance the frame. I'm gonna get it 2/3 put together so I can get the right mufflers for the space (thinking offset vs center inlet/outlets) so it'll be straight piped for the first start, lmao. The neighbors love me. Fingers crossed first start goes well, I've done this 100 times but every time I get nervous for the first fire, lol.
The biggest hurdle/delay lately was the throttle cable. There are a couple people out there running cable setups, but I haven't gotten a response as to which one, and wanted to avoid the $140 motion raceworks one. To anyone who needs it, here's the part number! Late model OBS chevy trucks, and only $27. It's 36" mount to mount (why tf do sellers measure the WHOLE cable length and not list mount distance? Crazy).
I chopped the MAT and MAP Sensor plugs off the Terminator harness and wired them up into a Hellcat TMAP plug. I also chopped the fuel pressure sensor plug and set it up for the Hellcat fuel pressure sensor that's built into the fuel rail crossover (neat). Dodge gatekeeps every shred of information about their products and sensors, the dealer couldn't tell me any sensor scaling information and WOULDN'T EVEN TELL ME THE SENSOR MANUFACTURER. The forums were also no help, and I called 7 or 8 tuners and Hellcat performance shops, to no avail. With a lot of searching and some help from chatGPT, I put together some "close enough" sensor scales for the Terminator ECU. I have a mechanical gauge on my FPR and the intake temps don't have to be exact, I'll just have a baseline so if suddenly they go out of the norm I can know something is wrong before I have a failure. I'll put the scales after this post, for the next guy.
I also got the throttle cable set up, Amazon cable bracket and a 102mm throttle body I had in the garage. This thing is gonna RIP.
The surge tank, high pressure pump, and fuel pressure regulator are all in. Fuel system is complete and ready for power. I will eventually build a little table bracket for the pump and surge tank, but a few riv-nuts will work just fine for the testing period. I would have preferred a name-brand regulator for safety's sake, but this PQY regulator was the only one with a large return port. All the other regulators had 8an/10an threads, but a tiny ⅛-¼" hole, and I don't want it to bottleneck the system. I have a Full-Flow 90⁰ bend from the fuel pump, and then a 45⁰ to the engine so it should flow very freely and keep good rail pressure. It's a smaller surge tank, but I did the math and it's like 15 seconds of WOT with no fuel added from the main tank so it'll be plenty. I accidentally switched the labels on the tank feed and tank return in the pic.
The intercooler system is now fully complete and ready for water/power. I have the hoses running along the transmission lines, under the bumper support, and up in front of the core support so they don't have to make any sharp bends.
I'm running out of things to do before I drive it! I'm gonna test drive it for a couple days before I do the suspension. That way, if something happens and I have to wait for a part or I have some sort of mechanical failure, I can do the suspension while I wait. I have 2 ignition power wires to run, 1 relay to install when I put the radiator in (elec fans) and then I just have to put the balancer/accessories on and get belts. If I decide to put the Nova off (it runs so it's also close) I may even get all that done tomorrow start cracking on the exhaust. I have the exhaust pipes/bends, I have the manifolds ready for install, and already clearance the frame. I'm gonna get it 2/3 put together so I can get the right mufflers for the space (thinking offset vs center inlet/outlets) so it'll be straight piped for the first start, lmao. The neighbors love me. Fingers crossed first start goes well, I've done this 100 times but every time I get nervous for the first fire, lol.
Here are the sensor scales, and the TMAP plug info.
There better be a video forthcoming of some sick 4WD donuts! Because, why else would you supercharge a square? 
Not sure if you have seen this page but it shows what connectors to use and the sensor scales.
https://djtuning.com/products/gen-i...~:text=This is a set of,Gen V LT Based engine.
Keep up the work, been watching this.
https://djtuning.com/products/gen-i...~:text=This is a set of,Gen V LT Based engine.
Keep up the work, been watching this.
I have! DJ is where I got my adapters, pulley hub, and bypass valve controller. Super cool guy, very helpful, and the best prices by a MILE. That page only provides the scales for the MAP portion though, and not the fuel pressure sensor or the temperature portion of the TMAP. He said he would update his site when he gets ahold of the actual tables
