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The Hellcat Blazer

Just a budget Blazer build out of control
Would you look at that! This is gonna be such a bitchin truck for this summer! I installed and pinned the balancer. Power steering pulley is not installed, and I need to relocate the reservoir. This is a C6 accessory drive system, and ICT Billet's LSA supercharger bracket system. It looks great to me, and uses Gates pulleys.
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I have! DJ is where I got my adapters, pulley hub, and bypass valve controller. Super cool guy, very helpful, and the best prices by a MILE. That page only provides the scales for the MAP portion though, and not the fuel pressure sensor or the temperature portion of the TMAP. He said he would update his site when he gets ahold of the actual tables
I figured you did, but posted it anyway.
 
I figured you did, but posted it anyway.
More information for the next guy! Lol.

With my setup, I'm using K080675HD for the blower and K060815 for the accessories. The 6 rib ICT Billet tensioner sits a little taller than the stock tensioner, so it won't use a stock length (~80") belt
 
It's ALIVE!!
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Pic is from yesterday before I got everything else put on.

I've only done three 15-30 second runs just to ensure everything is operating correctly, still has no radiator or 3/4 of the exhaust. The stars aligned and my local shop actually had the mufflers I wanted (Borla Pro XS) in stock! I don't even have to wait for shipping, so I'll get the rest of the exhaust knocked out hopefully tomorrow. I've already done the intermediate pipes on both sides, so it's basically just mufflers and tailpipes. I was able to squeeze the passenger exhaust pipe by the transfer case, so I'll have a true dual system. I'm undecided on adding an H pipe. I'm running these mufflers on my Camaro and love them, they're the quietest full-flow, zero restriction mufflers you can get and sound awesome. Still not quiet, mind you, your neighbors will know you fired it up and drove by. 10/10 recommend. Once I get the exhaust on, I need to get my power steering lines/reservoir sorted, and maybe I'll get to finally hear that whine!

Side note, my intercooler pump/system works great and I have ~7gal water capacity. I put 5gal in, and there's plenty of room in there for me to add ice or anything if I decide to. The fuel system/surge tank also work great, but my fuel pressure regulator will NOT go below 87psi! It's crazy. Luckily my big boy pump is good for 100psi, but I'll probably disassemble the regulator at another time and cut the internal spring down. I'd prefer a boost-referenced system with 65psi base, 77psi peak. For now I'll leave it static at 87 and not add a reference line until I get that sorted out.
 
Side note, my intercooler pump/system works great and I have ~7gal water capacity. I put 5gal in, and there's plenty of room in there for me to add ice or anything if I decide to. The fuel system/surge tank also work great, but my fuel pressure regulator will NOT go below 87psi! It's crazy. Luckily my big boy pump is good for 100psi, but I'll probably disassemble the regulator at another time and cut the internal spring down. I'd prefer a boost-referenced system with 65psi base, 77psi peak. For now I'll leave it static at 87 and not add a reference line until I get that sorted out.
The engine is looking awesome!

What pump and regulator do you have? Sounds like you have a restriction in the return line, or too small of a regulator for the pump. You need to get that fixed for it to operate properly. Your injectors may not be rated for that pressure.

Those exhaust manifolds are killing a lot of power and torque with the supercharger.
 
So this supercharger has water passages built into it, so it's just cooling the charger, or are there A2W bricks like this in there?
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Usually, a system like this would have a FMHE (front-mounted heat exchanger) with maybe a couple of square feet or more area. Your FMHE is small, like a transmission cooler, so it can't continually reject a lot of heat. Is the idea to bring in cold water just for short duration runs? Is there an IAT between the 'charger and the heads, to account for those varying temps?

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The engine is looking awesome!

What pump and regulator do you have? Sounds like you have a restriction in the return line, or too small of a regulator for the pump. You need to get that fixed for it to operate properly. Your injectors may not be rated for that pressure.

Those exhaust manifolds are killing a lot of power and torque with the supercharger.
There's definitely no restriction in the return, it's a 10AN return and I spent a while looking for the only regulator without a bottlenecked return (I think I put details about that in a previous post). A few reviews on the regulator mentioned the same thing, it's the internal spring being too heavy. Just gotta cut it down a little bit and it'll be fine. The injectors are rated at 58psi, but Hellcats see anywhere from 45-95psi stock. They use a PWM pump, not a regulator, so they can handle the pressure. I've adjusted the data in the ECU to account for the added pressure until I adjust it, so no harm will come of it. It's rock-solid at 87, it's not like it swings or fluctuates while running, and pressure doesn't creep over time.

You'd be very surprised about the manifolds' capability. Motor Trend built a 427 LS, big honkin cam, 280cc heads, and put a Kenne Bell 2.8L blower on it (my point here is: lots of airflow). With stock manifolds, it made 841/709. With long tubes, it made 861/714. For the cost of free and avoiding header fitment issues with my 4L80, I don't care about 20hp. I expect to see 10-12psi, so I'll make enough power. The difference was only ~15hp/tq through the entire curve, and that 427 is flowing a lot more air than my 6.0 will be. Manifolds will be just fine for my purposes :smile:
 
So this supercharger has water passages built into it, so it's just cooling the charger, or are there A2W bricks like this in there?
View attachment 503815
Usually, a system like this would have a FMHE (front-mounted heat exchanger) with maybe a couple of square feet or more area. Your FMHE is small, like a transmission cooler, so it can't continually reject a lot of heat. Is the idea to bring in cold water just for short duration runs? Is there an IAT between the 'charger and the heads, to account for those varying temps?

View attachment 503814
Yep, there are A2W bricks in the blower cooling the air post-supercharger. I couldn't run the heat exchanger I'm running in my square (like 24x12x1") because the AC condenser on the Blazer is twice the thickness of the condenser in my R20. This exchanger is 10x13x2" thick, moderately less volume and less surface area. I'm running electric fans, and the passenger side fan will sit right over the heat exchanger so it will have airflow at all speeds and RPMs. With ~7gal water capacity, it'll take a while to heat up to problematic levels. It'll mostly live at ambient temps, and 70 degree boost is better than 200+ degree boost! Lol.

For reference, my 87 only has ~3.5 gallons of water in the system, and the reservoir is in the engine bay. When I park at the gym, it gets heat soaked and my water is 90-95 degrees. Cruising at 65-70 degree air temps, the water temps drop 1 degree every ~5 seconds. I'm at ambient temps by the time I get home, ~8min away. These systems are very efficient, especially with an electric fan, I think I'll be fine. BUT you're exactly right, I did consider all those things while building the system! That's why I went with the jerry can reservoir with the large capacity, and the large mouth so I can add ice if I want/need to depending on how things go! Yes, this blower has 2 TMAP sensors between the intercooler bricks and the heads.
 
The surge tank, high pressure pump, and fuel pressure regulator are all in. Fuel system is complete and ready for power. I will eventually build a little table bracket for the pump and surge tank, but a few riv-nuts will work just fine for the testing period. I would have preferred a name-brand regulator for safety's sake, but this PQY regulator was the only one with a large return port. All the other regulators had 8an/10an threads, but a tiny ⅛-¼" hole, and I don't want it to bottleneck the system. I have a Full-Flow 90⁰ bend from the fuel pump, and then a 45⁰ to the engine so it should flow very freely and keep good rail pressure. It's a smaller surge tank, but I did the math and it's like 15 seconds of WOT with no fuel added from the main tank so it'll be plenty. I accidentally switched the labels on the tank feed and tank return in the pic.
There's definitely no restriction in the return, it's a 10AN return and I spent a while looking for the only regulator without a bottlenecked return (I think I put details about that in a previous post). A few reviews on the regulator mentioned the same thing, it's the internal spring being too heavy. Just gotta cut it down a little bit and it'll be fine. The injectors are rated at 58psi, but Hellcats see anywhere from 45-95psi stock. They use a PWM pump, not a regulator, so they can handle the pressure. I've adjusted the data in the ECU to account for the added pressure until I adjust it, so no harm will come of it. It's rock-solid at 87, it's not like it swings or fluctuates while running, and pressure doesn't creep over time.

I think a regulator that can regulator the proper pressure is more important than the size of the return orifice. The return orifice on a bypass style regulator does not restrict the flow to the engine like the return on a deadhead regulator does. If plumbed correctly, the fuel going into the fuel rails does not enter the orifice of the bypass regulator, only the excess fuel does. This is true whether you put the fuel rail before the regulator(ideal) or after, if its plumbed correctly.

I was going to see what brand regulator and pump it is to try and help, but I see it is some Speedmaster pump that is a copy of the Aeromotive A1000 and some off brand regulator. I don't recommend these parts.

I also don't recommend a surge tank, now you have two pumps to go out, and a surge tank control of some sort, be it a float or a pressure diaphram or something else to fail, Its also more likely to fail the pump because the pump is cooled by the fuel. And if you only have a tiny amount of fuel cycling through the pump over and over vs a whole tank, it can get very hot and burn up the pump. Also, many places stopped selling speedmaster because not only are are they cheaply made copies, but in some instances they actually copied the brand name they were copying and sold it with the other companies name on it, and it was inferior quality.

You'd be very surprised about the manifolds' capability. Motor Trend built a 427 LS, big honkin cam, 280cc heads, and put a Kenne Bell 2.8L blower on it (my point here is: lots of airflow). With stock manifolds, it made 841/709. With long tubes, it made 861/714. For the cost of free and avoiding header fitment issues with my 4L80, I don't care about 20hp. I expect to see 10-12psi, so I'll make enough power. The difference was only ~15hp/tq through the entire curve, and that 427 is flowing a lot more air than my 6.0 will be. Manifolds will be just fine for my purposes :smile:

If you don't care about the extra power that's fine, it's your build. I will say that is on the low side of power gains, and steel LS7 manifolds are much different than cast truck manifolds, they are more stamped and welded and have much larger collector outlets, some people put those on just to get 30 HP over the truck manifolds on a NA LS. You are probably looking at closer to 70 HP or more going from truck manifolds to long tube headers with a supercharger.

LS7 stamped dual layer manifolds...

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cast iron Truck Manifolds...

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I think a regulator that can regulator the proper pressure is more important than the size of the return orifice. The return orifice on a bypass style regulator does not restrict the flow to the engine like the return on a deadhead regulator does. If plumbed correctly, the fuel going into the fuel rails does not enter the orifice of the bypass regulator, only the excess fuel does. This is true whether you put the fuel rail before the regulator(ideal) or after, if its plumbed correctly.
Yes, but when you have so much fuel flow, I have experienced fuel pressure creep at idle/low rpm with a small return orifice, which really affects tuning and driveability. My regulator is set up correctly, the spring is just too heavy. No big deal, very minor modification. And the Hellcat rails are a deadhead system, no return line.

I was going to see what brand regulator and pump it is to try and help, but I see it is some Speedmaster pump that is a copy of the Aeromotive A1000 and some off brand regulator. I don't recommend these parts.
I've been using an identical pump/tank setup in my 87 for a while now (a year-ish) and haven't had any problems.
I also don't recommend a surge tank, now you have two pumps to go out, and a surge tank control of some sort, be it a float or a pressure diaphram or something else to fail, Its also more likely to fail the pump because the pump is cooled by the fuel. And if you only have a tiny amount of fuel cycling through the pump over and over vs a whole tank, it can get very hot and burn up the pump. Also, many places stopped selling speedmaster because not only are are they cheaply made copies, but in some instances they actually copied the brand name they were copying and sold it with the other companies name on it, and it was inferior quality.
Fuel heating is not an issue, as the return fuel gets pushed out of the surge tank and replaced by fresh fuel from the main tank. It's always cold to the touch, no matter how long I've been driving. The benefits FAR outweigh the drawbacks of a surge tank, the priority is keeping fuel at the fuel rails, at the proper pressure, especially under high cornering or high-throttle applications. My big square fuel tank will not be reliably effective at keeping fuel at the pickup below ⅓ tank.

Yes, they're not the ideal parts, but they work great for my purposes and I know how to design a system for maximum longevity. I was hesitant to use Speedmaster's parts when I set everything up on my 87 last year, but I've heard they're getting their act together so I gave em a shot and have been pleasantly surprised. At ¼-⅓ the cost of other brands, I'll replace the pump if it fails. It also comes with a warranty.

In response to "now you have 2 pumps to fail":
I've set it up so if the big pump fails, I can just move the small pump fitting to the regulator and drive home. It's a high pressure efi pump, happily living the easy life at low pressure as a lift pump, so it'll do the job just fine. Au contraire, if your 1 fuel pump fails, you're stuck in the middle of nowhere.
If you don't care about the extra power that's fine, it's your build. I will say that is on the low side of power gains, and steel LS7 manifolds are much different than cast truck manifolds, they are more stamped and welded and have much larger collector outlets, some people put those on just to get 30 HP over the truck manifolds on a NA LS. You are probably looking at closer to 70 HP or more going from truck manifolds to long tube headers with a supercharger.

LS7 stamped dual layer manifolds...

View attachment 503861

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cast iron Truck Manifolds...

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They used truck manifolds in the comparison, not LS7 manifolds. If you look up "MotorTrend manifolds vs headers LS" you'll see the article, worth a read. The gap on the bottom end with the NA setups was larger, with boost it disappeared.
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I urge you to look into the article so you can be fully informed, I really do appreciate your insight and constructive feedback, but some inaccurate assumptions have put you off the mark on this one.
 
I was going to see what brand regulator and pump it is to try and help, but I see it is some Speedmaster pump that is a copy of the Aeromotive A1000 and some off brand regulator. I don't recommend these parts.
If you wanna pay for em, though, I'll rip it all out and replaced em with name brand parts! :haha:
 
Yes, but when you have so much fuel flow, I have experienced fuel pressure creep at idle/low rpm with a small return orifice, which really affects tuning and driveability. My regulator is set up correctly, the spring is just too heavy. No big deal, very minor modification. And the Hellcat rails are a deadhead system, no return line.
The regulator definitely has to be matched to the fuel pump for sure, mismatched regulator and that can happen, but it doesn't restrict flow to the rails on a bypass regulator. There is still a return line with the deadhead rails, and the fuel still does not flow through the bypass orifice to get to the rails.
I've been using an identical pump/tank setup in my 87 for a while now (a year-ish) and haven't had any problems.
A year isn't much, 10 - 20 years or more is a real reliability test.

Fuel heating is not an issue, as the return fuel gets pushed out of the surge tank and replaced by fresh fuel from the main tank. It's always cold to the touch, no matter how long I've been driving.

That's a valid point if you have a return line on the surge tank.

The benefits FAR outweigh the drawbacks of a surge tank, the priority is keeping fuel at the fuel rails, at the proper pressure, especially under high cornering or high-throttle applications. My big square fuel tank will not be reliably effective at keeping fuel at the pickup below ⅓ tank.

I will agree to disagree, those benefits can be had with a baffled tank and no extra parts. Thousands of people running around at various power levels without issues if setup correctly.

In response to "now you have 2 pumps to fail":
I've set it up so if the big pump fails, I can just move the small pump fitting to the regulator and drive home. It's a high pressure efi pump, happily living the easy life at low pressure as a lift pump, so it'll do the job just fine. Au contraire, if your 1 fuel pump fails, you're stuck in the middle of nowhere.

That could be true and is a good point, however the high pressure pump is more likely to fail in this scenario. Also, you don't need a surge tank to run dual pumps. I run dual pumps on some applications, the secondary is only on above a certain throttle. And occasionally you can swap which one is the secondary to wear them more evenly with just a connector swap. In that scenario only one pump is required during most driving, not both.

They used truck manifolds in the comparison, not LS7 manifolds. If you look up "MotorTrend manifolds vs headers LS" you'll see the article, worth a read. The gap on the bottom end with the NA setups was larger, with boost it disappeared.

OK, I was wrong on my assumption of the LS7 manifolds, I apologize. I still think in reality most applications see a larger difference in power than that particular example. Also, restrictions create more heat with supercharging, and extra heat can increase the chances of detonation in street driving.

If you wanna pay for em, though, I'll rip it all out and replaced em with name brand parts! :haha:

:rotfl:

I would rather have the better quality and long term reliability than a longer warranty. Typically the stress and frustration of low quality parts are not worth the hassle, and long term you end up spending more money after replacement and being stranded.



However, I apologize again, I did not mean to come across as negative on your build. The truck is really cool, you continue to build the way you want, I will continue to use no surge tank and headers. :waytogo:

The rig is cool and I like how you combined the Hellcat blower on the LS. Those hellcat blowers sound awesome, I almost wonder if Dodge purposely had them made louder, "That thing got a Hemi?"...."no, but it has a hemi blower"....:saweet:
 
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A year isn't much, 10 - 20 years or more is a real reliability test.
I'm workin on it! Lol
I almost wonder if Dodge purposely had them made louder, "That thing got a Hemi?"...."no, but it has a hemi blower"....:saweet:
Oh they 100% made it louder for marketing, that's the whole reason I wanted one! Lol. I could've done a turbo setup for a lower price and much less hassle, but how can I turn down that Hellcat whine??
 
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