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The Hellcat Blazer

Just a budget Blazer build out of control
But just think how awesome it would be to compete with the supercharged f150s from a dig! Talk about sleeper!
That was half the reason I wanted to do the swap, for the 4wd launches! Maybe the ORD suspension put me out of that arena
You have a pretty mild H/C setup dont you? Power is definitely higher than I thought it would be, which is awesome
Yeah, it's a ~500hp combo NA on a 6.0. I wanted to keep some down-low grunt for some dig or offroad situations, and let boost take care of the top end
 
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Also - strongly suggest you reconsider your rear axle, that power level is definitely playing with fire. At least a 9.5 14b semi float so you could keep 6 lug or swap to 8 lug outers on your 10 bolt front.

Hopefully you are running at least 1350 joints in rear driveshaft?
It has some good hard parts in it! I was going to go 14 bolt, but I may drop from 35's to 33's and was concerned about ground clearance. I figured traction would go before I'd break the front/rear end with the new posis and 30spl chromoly axles, but I've been very surprised with how well it hooks, so we'll see how it goes! So far it has been a champ, fingers crossed. Worst case, I have a Strange ford 9" with a spool and 4.56's in my storage unit that'll take its place.
 
That was half the reason I wanted to do the swap, for the 4wd launches! Maybe the ORD suspension put me out of that arena

Yeah, it's a ~500hp combo NA on a 6.0. I wanted to keep some down-low grunt for some dig or offroad situations, and let boost take care of the top end
Id think ord suspension would help with weight transfer! With swaybar connected i would think you could still play and have quick disconnects for when you want to crawl.

Based on your combo, what do you think the blower would make power-wise on an otherwise stock lq4/lq9?
 
Id think ord suspension would help with weight transfer! With swaybar connected i would think you could still play and have quick disconnects for when you want to crawl.

Based on your combo, what do you think the blower would make power-wise on an otherwise stock lq4/lq9?
Man, I don't know... to be honest, I wouldn't recommend running the blower without at least a cam, it's a lot of air and you'd see some substantial boost numbers! In theory, you'd make almost the same power (some lost due to inefficient airflow because the stock cams are restrictive, and because the supercharger is working harder) but you'd be at like 15psi, blowers flow a fixed amount of air per revolution so it would be the same amount of air my cammed 6.0 is consuming. Instead of (ballpark) 800hp at 10psi, you'd be at like 720-750hp at 15-16psi on a stock 6.0 (with the same pulleys and rpm). For the $260 (Holdener Performance) to $550 (BTR, Comp, etc) cost, I would 100% at LEAST put a cam and springs in it. Cheapest horsepower you'll ever get!
 
what do you think the blower would make power-wise on an otherwise stock lq4/lq9?
With a stock LQ9 making 345hp, adding 10lbs of boost is theoretically about 580hp, but that assumes you have enough ring gap and are getting enough heat out of the air charge. Going any higher than that will take you off of pump gas. You don't need a 2.4L blower to do this, you could use something smaller. While with all else being equal, more boost = more power, boost is not the goal. The goal is to put air through the engine and PSI in the manifold is a measure of restriction, in part (keep the supercharger drive ratio the same and swap a bigger cam, the boost will drop while power goes up). Also, with all else being equal, more boost = hotter air and intercooling is also some level of restriction!

TL;DR - free breathing is important for boost, i.e. valvetrain and exhaust are probably the places to start.
 
Man, I don't know... to be honest, I wouldn't recommend running the blower without at least a cam and headers.

I fixed it for you.... ;)

I always recommend both with a blower, here is an example of a 6.2L CTS-V that already had a mild cam and CAI, and a pulley. And they added headers to it and picked up 40 RWHP and 50 RWTQ, that's about 50 HP and 62 lb-ft at the crank.

That's just one example, but this is pretty typical of long tube headers, which are more important to let heat out and avoid detonation with a blower and pump gas. The more boost you run the more important it would be. They actually lost a lb of boost (restriction) and picked up that power.

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Re stock 6.0: Was more theoretical in nature, if I was going this route would certainly do some upgrades. Appreciate the insights!

9” and 33” drag radials and then go hunting!

I saw the vid pop up on my Fb feed. Couple ppl saying expected it to be faster given HP numbers. I think what most ppl forget is that when your higher up, things seem slower and when you are low to the ground (ie: hellcat, vette, mustang, etc) it seems faster, all things being equal.

I also think a 6/8/10spd trans would certainly make it faster since each shift is better positioned in powerband, less drop after each shift.

Would be curious to see gps data on 60ft, 0-60, 1/8, 1/4 etc, and how it compares to the f150’s and trackhawks of the world. Regardless, just a badass build. Well done!
 
Maybe I have low expectations of my cammed LQ4 with 5psi reaching 500 wheel.
500 WHEEL is a pretty decent goal. Not sure what transmission youre running, but a 4L80 consumes ~150hp, and you lose a little more to big tires. I'd expect at least 450, and would be very happy with 500 at 5psi. That would mean the tune is pretty optimized
 
After watching his video of the test drive, I am even more convinced that @ABH Customs is NOT going to install headers on this truck!
He was having a blast!

Well, maybe he will if someone pays for them and does the install to his liking!
:rotfl:
Hahahaha! My main reasons for doing manifolds were:
1. Immediate gratification
2. Free.95
3. I won't have frame clearance issues
4. I didn't have to do anything fancy to go around my transmission ears, or shift linkage (I'm using the stock shifter linkage that I modified)

I HATE waiting for shipping/parts etc, for the minor power loss from manifolds it was worth not having to spend a couple weeks test-fitting and returning headers. Absolutely there is power on the table, but once I lock in to a project, I wanna drive it NOW! :haha:Once I replenish the massive crater I put in my bank account, I'll probably do headers the same time I do my transfer case (still running a modified NP208)
 
9” and 33” drag radials and then go hunting!
Yes!
I saw the vid pop up on my Fb feed. Couple ppl saying expected it to be faster given HP numbers. I think what most ppl forget is that when your higher up, things seem slower and when you are low to the ground (ie: hellcat, vette, mustang, etc) it seems faster, all things being equal.
Yes, it's also a wide road with no sidewalk or any other features to give perspective. It feels fast, people on the internet can say whatever they want lol
I also think a 6/8/10spd trans would certainly make it faster since each shift is better positioned in powerband, less drop after each shift.
I REALLY want to play with a 6L80/90, I've heard great things! But I know 4L80s pretty well and already had this one built for another canceled project. I've been considering putting a 6L80 into my daily square (87, centrifugal 6.0) but it drives great and has a fresh 4L80, so we'll see. If I can pick one up for a deal, I'll post it here!
Would be curious to see gps data on 60ft, 0-60, 1/8, 1/4 etc, and how it compares to the f150’s and trackhawks of the world. Regardless, just a badass build. Well done!
Same, I haven't hit it from a dig yet so I'm nervous to get a 0-60 been just 20-30 rolls so far, I don't know how close my 12 bolt is from leaving the chat! Once I get a few more miles and get some confidence in the system, I will absolutely be getting some of that data.
 
Get a driveshaft for burnouts and one for crawling.
I have been unable to stop thinking about this. I could work out a system with 2 limit straps and a pin setup. I can get shorter straps and limit down-travel to 2-3" for street rips, and use a conventional driveshaft. Then just pull the pin and swap limit straps when I'm gonna be doing offroad stuff or want more down-travel, which would be toolless and take like 30 seconds. I don't want to have to swap driveshafts all the time, but it's like a 10min task....hmmmm. How often am I REALLY gonna be going back and forth between terrain? Giving me ideas and costing me money
 
Check out the sway bar disconnects from ORD, that coupled with limiting straps (maybe adjustable bump stops?), your golden! Are the limiting straps strong enough to withstand hundreds of launches? Guess you’ll find out!
 
500 WHEEL is a pretty decent goal. Not sure what transmission youre running, but a 4L80 consumes ~150hp, and you lose a little more to big tires. I'd expect at least 450, and would be very happy with 500 at 5psi. That would mean the tune is pretty optimized
Built 4L60e, I actually think the pulley is a 7 I sadly don’t remember.
 
A smooth 6speed would be so cool. Id love a manual for my build but i havent found a smooth shifting trans better than nv4500 for 4wd, so let that dream go away.
 
A smooth 6speed would be so cool. Id love a manual for my build but i havent found a smooth shifting trans better than nv4500 for 4wd, so let that dream go away.
Tremec is currently producing a 5 speed TR4050 which is basically a more modern NV4500. Supposedly smoother shifting and such.
 
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