So shiny. So is that a lipstick red or fingernail polish red? Just asking. 
CK5
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The Purple Camaro
- Thread starter Bent77
- Start date
Lipstick red, gotta make sure the tech guy is happySo shiny. So is that a lipstick red or fingernail polish red? Just asking.
Not required to have it until 11.59, and I don’t think I’ll get there. But junky looking crap raises eyebrows, Lakewood Red doesn’t
No but it helps the run out.
I was pleasantly surprised. Bolted to the block with all the bolts, .006 total runout. Dead 0s left to right and +/- .003 top to bottom
It’s nowhere near new
Almost something a guy would like to hang on to but funding takes priority.
The tremec 5 speed wasn’t cheap, so had to move the Muncie. I’m thinking I would have blown it up anyway. Gained the scattershield though, they run about $700 new
I still have an M20 to sell, and I’ll rebuild the Jerico and keep it as the spare, or sell it. It has Ford Toploader internals and has the same output as the tremec
I found dialing in the scattershield/bell to be very satisfying for some weird reason. 
Me too, but only after it dialed inI found dialing in the scattershield/bell to be very satisfying for some weird reason.
I found dialing in the scattershield/bell to be very satisfying for some weird reason.
Was there much adjusting to do?Me too, but only after it dialed in
Side to side, in out?
Yeah, mine was money...I'd have to look back in my thread but I think it was also in the three thou range. Ultimately I think the Bells from Lakewood and Quick Time are super accurate, and what you're really measuring is the machining on the block. A lot of the factory blocks were "so-so". I'd guess Mark's engine being a performance crate from GM is built to better tolerance than some random sbc from decades past. My block is not even built by GM, it's Blueprints own casting, and it seems they're pretty fussy too.
I'm really glad I didn't need to buy a set of offset dowels and fox around with that to make things right.
I'm really glad I didn't need to buy a set of offset dowels and fox around with that to make things right.
Glad you were able to unload the M21. Setup looks good so far.
Weekly updates:
Much like Rene's situation, parts are being manufactured and delivered via snailback. Racing offseason has always been a bit like that
Spent 45 minutes getting the woodruff key out of the crank snout for the damper so I could pull the timing set gear off the crank
Ruined the key, saved the crank.
Threw away a Proto 2 jaw puller. Because if you can't pull straight, stay out of the shop
Anyone using a factory roller block, the comp part number to go to a double roller (factory is single, hence the replacement) is 3136. Different than the early blocks
Ordered my own damper install tool. Swear I had one
Currently researching the following recipe:
ProFLo-4
MSD 7AL-2
Getting varying information about using that MSD box with the PF, and the -7 is designed for racing use (already have it in the car)
Tentatively looking at using the MSD 8223 coil. It is one of the few coils recommended for both the PF4 and the -7
I may run it direct off the PF until it goes to the drag strip, then drive the coil off the -7 and use the rev limiter there to control the launch, and the rev in the PF software to control the top end rev limit
Much like Rene's situation, parts are being manufactured and delivered via snailback. Racing offseason has always been a bit like that
Spent 45 minutes getting the woodruff key out of the crank snout for the damper so I could pull the timing set gear off the crank
Ruined the key, saved the crank.
Threw away a Proto 2 jaw puller. Because if you can't pull straight, stay out of the shop
Anyone using a factory roller block, the comp part number to go to a double roller (factory is single, hence the replacement) is 3136. Different than the early blocks
Ordered my own damper install tool. Swear I had one
Currently researching the following recipe:
ProFLo-4
MSD 7AL-2
Getting varying information about using that MSD box with the PF, and the -7 is designed for racing use (already have it in the car)
Tentatively looking at using the MSD 8223 coil. It is one of the few coils recommended for both the PF4 and the -7
I may run it direct off the PF until it goes to the drag strip, then drive the coil off the -7 and use the rev limiter there to control the launch, and the rev in the PF software to control the top end rev limit
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You can use the PF4 with a CDI box no problem.
And when you use a CDI box you can use whatever coil you want that works with the CDI box, you just can't drive a high output coil directly with the PF4 and no CDI box, only the canister type.
If you are using the CDI box I would just wire it up permanently and use whatever coil you choose. You can use the two step rev limiter from the CDI box, it will still work. You just wire it so the PF4 signals the CDI box when to fire (PF4 controls timing then), but you can still use either rev limiter, or the 2 step.
One advantage to using a canister coil, I am wiring a PF4 up with a CDI box for a customer, but I am adding a weatherpack connector so if the CDI box ever fails, you can just plug the PF4 directly into the connector and be on your way home. Of course if the coil fails you would need a spare, but that's true with any single coil system.
If you had high compression I would use a stronger coil, but for what you are doing the CDI box will already give the coil more energy than without, which should be fine with your setup.
And when you use a CDI box you can use whatever coil you want that works with the CDI box, you just can't drive a high output coil directly with the PF4 and no CDI box, only the canister type.
If you are using the CDI box I would just wire it up permanently and use whatever coil you choose. You can use the two step rev limiter from the CDI box, it will still work. You just wire it so the PF4 signals the CDI box when to fire (PF4 controls timing then), but you can still use either rev limiter, or the 2 step.
One advantage to using a canister coil, I am wiring a PF4 up with a CDI box for a customer, but I am adding a weatherpack connector so if the CDI box ever fails, you can just plug the PF4 directly into the connector and be on your way home. Of course if the coil fails you would need a spare, but that's true with any single coil system.
If you had high compression I would use a stronger coil, but for what you are doing the CDI box will already give the coil more energy than without, which should be fine with your setup.
The diagram is in the PF4 manual for both ways. All you need to do is just put a 2 pin weather pack between the coil and the CDI box, and the CDI box and the PF4. Then if something happens to the CDI box, just unplug the coil and the CDI box, and plug the coil directly into the PF4.
If you are carrying a spare coil anyway, you could run a stronger coil normally and carry the spare one that also works with the PF4. Just make sure they use the same coil spark wire too.
And don't ever hook the stronger coil (< 0.6 ohms or < 6.0 mH) directly to the PF4, or it will burn up the ECU.
If you are carrying a spare coil anyway, you could run a stronger coil normally and carry the spare one that also works with the PF4. Just make sure they use the same coil spark wire too.
And don't ever hook the stronger coil (< 0.6 ohms or < 6.0 mH) directly to the PF4, or it will burn up the ECU.
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I did a Cloyes Hex adjust timing set, on my tbi roller block. I had the entire bottom end put together, when I found out that the cam gear hits the front of the block. Not fun!
